Carefully remove the screw now, making sure you don’t strip it (i.e. use
a screwdriver that perfectly matches the screw). Do that slowly, as there
might be a lot of pressure in the coolant chamber, and the glycol might
actually splash out.
It is not unusual for the hole to still be sealed though when you remove the
screw, as there can also be some silicone under the screw.
Now take your syringe (with a small diameter needle) and slowly insert it
into the hole. Don’t be surprised if there is glycol splashing out at this
point (though in the video it just slowly leaks out).
Make sure you remove the leaking glycol right away, as it is a real mess
to get it off the tube face, or off components. Glycol is also corrosive, so
that’s another reason to quickly remove any spills.
When you have inserted the needle far enough, you will actually be able
to see it when looking at the tube face.
Now start to gently extract some glycol. This should be very easy.
CAVEAT:
Should you feel more resistance than you expected, then STOP pulling on the
syringe immediately.
You will most likely have some silicone in the needle. Remove the needle
from the tube and get the silicone out of it. Then carefully insert it into
the tube again.
Remove some glycol, and then pull out the needle to allow for some air to
get into the tube.
Repeat as required until a sufficient amount of glycol has been removed
(probably less than 0.5 to 1 ml per tube).
Insert the screw again and tighten it.
Wipe the top of the tube clean.
HINT:
Don’t throw the removed glycol away. In case you removed too much glycol,
you would get internal reflections in the tube. In that case add some of the
removed glycol into the coolant chamber again.
Step by step video: Bleeding_Tubes4.MOV (23.3mb)
