Step 9:
Once the sealant is dry, run the glycol through a coffee filter a couple of
times to get rid of sealant/stray fungus and then use a syringe to refill the
chamber.
Tip:
If you’re worried about conserving as much of the glycol as possible, cut
the coffee filter such that you’re only using the bottom 1/3 or so. This’ll
require you to filter more slowly but you’ll lose less of the glycol by
absorption into the filter.
If the glycol is clear, you may want to simply buy a bottle of new stuff to save
time and to make sure your coolant is completely free of particles or fungus.
You can buy clear coolant glycol here: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
Note: As of this date (Aug 2006), nobody has been able to source tinted glycol
direct from the manufacturers, though some enthusiasts have found ways to create
their own using ink-jet printer ink and other means.
Tip: Use a bigger syringe than the one featured in the photo above. It took
about 6 years to fill it up using this small syringe. Syringes are available at
most pharmacy’s, though be prepared to explain why you need it (or bring in the
tube to show them!).
There's bound to be less glycol than when you started, so some have indicated
that de-ionized water is ok to use as to top up the tube though it’s always best
to use real coolant glycol if you can. Make sure you leave a bubble of air at
the top (like your other tubes) or you'll end up leaking (or cracking the glass)
when it gets hot!
If you are storing the CRT after you de-fung it, rotate it from time to time
once every couple of months. Just like a good bottle of wine you want to turn
the tube so the fluid doesn’t sit in one place. When the tubes are in a
projector the fluid rotates as the tube heats up so fluid rotation is automatic.
This rotating will help limit the re-occurrence of fungus.
Step 10:
Replace the two little screws to the coolant chamber, re-install the CRT
tube. Check the tube from time to time during the first few days of use to
ensure there are no leaks.
Enjoy the clear picture!
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