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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
Posts: 5924
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| Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 10:03 pm Post subject: NEC 9PG Raster Help |
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Let me preface this by saying that I am a permenant newbie. I've read the mechanical set-up guide for the PG and ANYTHING that begins "put your hand inside the projector" or "carefully cut off the silicon" is NOT going to happen. I don't do electronics and am deathly afraid of high-voltage. Hell, I was nervous about pulling the tubes off my first 1272. I figured I'd get them off and not be able to put them back on. 
Because of this I have had a series of projectors set-up badly or at least below their full potential. However, I keep getting better and better projectors. The theory I'm operating on is that a poorly set-up 9PG Xtra will look better than a poorly set-up 1272.
I just finished zeroing all the settings and someone at NEC should have their ass kicked for not making a "zero all settings" option in the menu. There are a lot off settings in a PG! I also turned off the point convergence board. I did the calculations and set my projector up 124.3383 inches from my 84" wide 16:9 screen. . .
A=[(5/18XW-12.5)X4.99]+70.28 THANK GOD FOR SPREADSHEETS!
The image is too wide for the screen though. When I use amplitude I still can't seem to make it small enough to fit.
Like I said, I just started on this and I'll probably run across the answer myself, but I sure would be gratefull for a nudge in the right direction. Should I just move it closer? You have to move it 13 inches closer to make it work and that doesn't seem right to me. Why put the calculations in the book if they don't work?
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it takes a village, but not just any village—and certainly not the village of Corleone on the outskirts of Palermo, Sicily!
Last edited by whats6x7 on Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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dbaisey
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 821
Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:51 am Post subject: |
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Do you have a video board installed, or will it project from the video input? If so you set the H Width pot with that input to 1.8V at max amplitude at PA pin 2. This will keep the deflection from overheating and failure. The lower the res the wider the image.
The NEC CRT projectors were never designed for the consumer so no need for that option. As a consumer you couldn't go buy one and only through a NEC dealer if you did. Consumer stuff you would need to get a non Pro system projector. Doug
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:31 am Post subject: |
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Well, I grew a set of balls and got the sh*t scared out of me. I re-read the mechanical set-up and thought "how hard can it be". I carefully cut the silicone, reached my finger gently inside to touch the centering magnets, saw a short static shock arc against my finger and . . .
Anyone ever see the Tom and Jerry cartoon where the dog barks and scares Jerry to the ceiling where he hangs on by his claws?
After I set this thing up I'll need to remove the claw marks. The magnets seem to do up and down. What centers left to right?
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it takes a village, but not just any village—and certainly not the village of Corleone on the outskirts of Palermo, Sicily!
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:56 am Post subject: |
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Ok the Green Raster is WWWAAAYYYY off center. Its actually off the tube to the left. The magnets do up and down. How do I move it to the right?
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it takes a village, but not just any village—and certainly not the village of Corleone on the outskirts of Palermo, Sicily!
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:59 am Post subject: |
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There is a simple way to zero settings.
CRTL + NORMAL, then pick CANCEL.
Works at any menu level.
You should not get a shock from either the centering magnets or the astig rings. What did you touch exactly? I've NEVER gotten a shock from a projector. The only thing that is not covered is the deflection coil windings - which are right in front of the centering rings.
There's 2 centering rings/tabs, you have to work them both to get the raster to go where you want.
I think it should be about 119" away from an 84" wide screen.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
Posts: 5924
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:24 am Post subject: |
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Hi Mark,
No. No shock. Just the light from a static discharge. Looked like a shock. Scared me to death after the "Lethal Voltage" warning 
Thanks for the zero tip. I've got something strange going on here. Even at the narrowest setting I think my image is too wide for the raster. Probably why it looks too wide for the screen size. I'll keep playing with tabe but I can't get the raster to move anywhere but up and down.
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it takes a village, but not just any village—and certainly not the village of Corleone on the outskirts of Palermo, Sicily!
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:43 am Post subject: |
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Alright, getting the hang of it now. One is down and right and the other is left an up. Or is it the other way around?
MUCH HARDER THAN A BARCO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Still, I am trying. So where is the lethal voltage? Just so I don't screw around with the wrong thing.
I have my rasters centered, my image centered inside the rasters, and the crosshairs centered. Its 1AM and I'm going to bed. How do I make the video inside the raster smaller? I think that is my problem.
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it takes a village, but not just any village—and certainly not the village of Corleone on the outskirts of Palermo, Sicily!
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:58 am Post subject: |
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Porches.
What timing are you using? Sounds like the porches are too small.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, Porches, Ferraris, 220, 221, whatever it takes. 
Seriously. I am probably WAY out of my league here but I'm going to keep hammering away at this thing. I'm running 1080i at 72Hz. Is the 72Hz throwing it off? Ican change to 60Hz.
Thanks in advance for the help!
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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If it's a PC, try this 1080i 72hz timing.
"C:\Program Files\PowerStrip\pstrip.exe" /t:1920,56,128,112,1080,4,10,30,89505,286
The problem is probably not the refresh rate (1080i 72hz is sweet), more likely the front and back porches are too small. The 56 above is the front porch, the 128 is the sync width, and the 112 is the back porch. Add more number to them, particularly the back porch, if you still get image wrap.
But first....did you back out the blanking???
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dbaisey
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 821
Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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One thing that might be affecting it is if the signal entry was done using a data copy. You have a choice of using default or temporary at the signal entry. Might try temporary. If the RGB signal entry was built off of the video input entry it could be corrupt and have the wrong amplitude. The ctl-normal-cancel wont know what to 0 to correctly. This gets involved in how default is built and what it is calling up.
If the H Width pot is mis adjusted it can affect it.
This could also just be the porches. Doug
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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Cool! I just put the lenses back on and am ready for the next step. I really appreciate the help. I was ready to give up at about 11PM last night. By 1AM I was feeling pretty good about this project. I'll check the blanking later this morning before I move on.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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I'm at 1920,64,56,160
I shouldn't have to add to them should I? Where is the H-width trim pot? I think I might have to do that.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 2:35 pm Post subject: |
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Found it. I'll give that a try.
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dbaisey
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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| dbaisey wrote: | | Do you have a video board installed, or will it project from the video input? If so you set the H Width pot with that input to 1.8V at max amplitude at PA pin 2. This will keep the deflection from overheating and failure. The lower the res the wider the image. |
Use the video input at max amplitude. You can use the metal chassis for the ground probe. As you bring up amplitude on the remote watch the voltage. When amplitude is at max you want 1.8V via the pot. If it goes over reduce but keep a eye on it to avoid overdriving at this max amplitude. Doug
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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OK, I have the amplitude reduced. I used the H-Width trimpot to bring the image inside my 84" wide screen with the projector 120" from the screen. I don't know how or what to probe. Amplitude at 85% (I think). Is that good enough?
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dbaisey
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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Darn, first you don't want to turn any other pots or it can get you in trouble. I thought you had some knowledge but that was my fault but to answer your question.
I don't know. If it was set to spec then we would know if it was adjusted up to high or the signal entry wasn't right or what ever.
Can you get a cheap one at Radio Shack, barrow one or have a friend check it? The PA is the white connector on the deflection board, it will have a ID on it. Pin 2 is the center one.
It might be a good idea to have someone do the mechanical set up for you that knows them. What location? Doug
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
Posts: 5924
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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Oh why not. I've gone this far. Yeah, I have a digital volt meter. AC/DC? Black(common) to case and red to Pin 2?
I mean, what the hell. If I blow this one up I still have one more waiting in the wings! 
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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| dbaisey wrote: | | I thought you had some knowledge |
Doug,
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but read the first paragraph at the top. I'm already MUCH further into this thing than I had anticipated. I'm having fun though.
Tim
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dbaisey
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah I did the first time but didn't have my coffee yet..my fault.
On the voltmeter set it to DC. Red lead is positive. Put that into the back of the PA pin 2, if you get it in right it will hold itself. Attach the black lead to the chassis metal so it will hold itself or use a clip lead. Your set.
Make sure the meter is reading 1.8V look close. Doug
Remember use the video input
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