CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Skylooker]

Got my new chip from moome. I'm looking inside my external moome. Which chip is the EDID? Is it IC4 or IC7?

Thanks, MIKE

[Skylooker]

Moome e-mailed me and said it's IC4. Thought I'd post if anybody else needs to know.

MIKE

[Joust]

I was asked for a quick how to do this:

what you need:
Soldering iron with a standard tip. (Not tiny)
Solderwick
solder (resin core)
probe or tweezers

here is the quick and dirty way to do this for a 8 pin surface mount chip. takes seconds and is fairly foolproof

Technique #1 (quicker, slightly more skill required)
lay the soldering iron tip down across as many of the 4 pins on one side of the chip as you can. Add solder to bridge all 4 pins. repeat on the other side.
Once the pins on both sides, alternate the iron form one side to the other then with some sideways pressure on the iron slide the chip of its pads. Not too much that you fling it or splash solder all over. The object is simply to get enough heat onto all pins to flow all 8 solder points. I can do this with 32 pin chips so a layman should be able to do 8 piners.
If you are putting too much heat down to the PCB you could lift the pads. This whole procedure should take no more than 30 seconds. If you are taking more time than that, you might consider letting it cool down for a few minutes and resuming later.

Technique #2
lay the soldering iron tip down across as many of the 4 pins on one side of the chip as you can. Add solder to bridge all 4 pins.
with the iron in place an all 4 pads on one side of the chip with melted solder gently pry up that side of the chip with the probe. lift it only a fraction of and inch or half a millimeter. Do not apply much pressure as you can easily lift the pads ut you do have to apply enough pressure to bend the 4 legs on the other side of the chip. Beware that you are not holding the legs of the chip down with the iron. if you don't know the shape of the leg you shouldn't be doing this
once it is lifted a bit use the solder wick to wick off all the solder on that side of the chip. lay the soldering iron tip down across as many of the 4 pins on other side of the chip as you can. Add solder to bridge all 4 pins. now just push off the chip.

Once the chip is off. use the wick to wick off all solder.
apply solder to one corner pad only. Place the chip in place and flow the one pin on. ensure the chip is positioned properly. and pin 1 is where pin 1 should be . solder a pin on the other side. Check positioning again.
solder the rest of the pins.

Advanced notes:
I have a temperature controlled iron and I use it turned up high.
If you use more heat, BUT apply that heat for a shorter period of time, less heat actually gets transfered to the chip and the board. Time is teh critical factor here. You can easily damage the board with too much heat. Don't get fooled into believing a lower wattage iron will save you from this. Low wattage irons will heat up way too hot if just left alone. I find a temerature controlled iron is a great investment and can save that 200+ dollar board. There is a no-brainer.

Disclaimer:
Try this at your own risk. These procedures work great for me. I accept no responsibility if you wreck your board. I can fix it if you do though

[jaz50y]

I just tried Joust's technique to replace the EDID chip in my BG-DVI, which had stopped speaking to my Toshiba HD-A2. The result looked like hell to me, but I got a perfectly good picture with my Motorola 6412 at 1080i, but still nothing from the A2.

Question: is it possible that I didn't get the chip in correctly (like missed a pin to pad connection or bridged two pins) and still get the Motorola picture, or would the picture be completely messed up if I got it wrong?