CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Zebra]

I just picked up a (nearly) new VPH-D50HT and I'm a little unsure on the raster set-up instructions. I'm trying to follow this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCmhC1p5ANw

of a 1292 setup (and the D50 manual) but it doesn't look the same and Sony seems to use different names for raster...

So... is the "size" button on the remote the one that's used for the raster size? (I know it needs to be in service mode)

If it is, am I meant to use the test pattern that comes up (when I press "size") to adjust it? The man in the video says "all this is done without a test pattern" but I can see the edge of the raster on his 1292 tubes. On my D50 it just looks bright all the way to the edge of the tube no matter what size I set it to.

If I turn the brightness and contrast down I can only see the test pattern. If I turn it up it gets so bright it blinds me when I look in the lens. But either way I can't see a raster edge like in the video.

Is raster set-up called something else on the D50?

Can I take the lenses off on the D50 to make this first step easier or are they coupled to the tubes?

Any pointers would be really appreciated... CRT projector setup is humbling....

[Curt Palme]

Generally speaking, Sonys are pretty good in keeping the rasters centered. Go into the service mode, and put up and all white field from the test pattern. Turn contrast low, and brightness high, and you might be able to see the overall raster that should be slightly larger than the test pattern, but if not, don't worry about it.

USE SUNGLASSES!

Assuming that the rasters are centered (no reason for them not to be already), then set the height and width (well, mainly the width, assuming you're running a widescreen) so that the test pattern comes really close to touching the sides of the phosphor. An actual image from a source should end up being somewhat smaller than the test pattern. Then set the projector up so that the test pattern is slightly larger than the screen, and the image should then not overshoot the screen.

The Sonys have a main height and width, that affects both the image and the test patterns, but then also an RGB size that (if I remember correctly), only affects the image and not the test patterns. Set the test pattern first, then the image.

Store your settings often via the memory button, and remember to feed a live video signal into the projector while doing the convergence.

Do the full setup 3 times over the course of a week or so. By the third time, you'll get good at it.

[Curt Palme]

Generally speaking, Sonys are pretty good in keeping the rasters centered. Go into the service mode, and put up and all white field from the test pattern. Turn contrast low, and brightness high, and you might be able to see the overall raster that should be slightly larger than the test pattern, but if not, don't worry about it.

USE SUNGLASSES!

Assuming that the rasters are centered (no reason for them not to be already), then set the height and width (well, mainly the width, assuming you're running a widescreen) so that the test pattern comes really close to touching the sides of the phosphor. An actual image from a source should end up being somewhat smaller than the test pattern. Then set the projector up so that the test pattern is slightly larger than the screen, and the image should then not overshoot the screen.

The Sonys have a main height and width, that affects both the image and the test patterns, but then also an RGB size that (if I remember correctly), only affects the image and not the test patterns. Set the test pattern first, then the image.

Store your settings often via the memory button, and remember to feed a live video signal into the projector while doing the convergence.

Do the full setup 3 times over the course of a week or so. By the third time, you'll get good at it.

[Zebra]

Thanks

I am planning to mainly use it for 4:3 content (in 15khz, 24khz and 31khz) although I may want to use it for some 16:9 DVDs if the image looks better than my digital projectors. Do I need to choose one or the other for the raster sizing or can I store two lots of settings?

Does the raster have to be exactly 4:3 or 16:9 in shape? I can't see any way of measuring that besides roughly guessing. I thought I'd be able to adjust the image height for each source when I switch between 224p, 240p, 256p, 384p etc like I do on my crt monitor.

I'm a little confused by the behavior when I switch between component (15khz) and rgb (15khz). It looked good with component but none of my settings seem to carry over to rgb. Do I need to go through set-up again for RGB?

[Curt Palme]

See the main website where I have an article posted about raster setup. I use a Barco 808 as an example there, but the D50 setup and all other projectors is the same.

Yes, all data projectors have various memory locations for various resolutions. I think on the Sony you can transfer data from one memory block to another, but read the manual for that. It's been too many years since I've set up a D50 to remember.

Even if you can transfer data, you still need to fine tune for each resolution you want to use.

[Curt Palme]

See the main website where I have an article posted about raster setup. I use a Barco 808 as an example there, but the D50 setup and all other projectors is the same.

Yes, all data projectors have various memory locations for various resolutions. I think on the Sony you can transfer data from one memory block to another, but read the manual for that. It's been too many years since I've set up a D50 to remember.

Even if you can transfer data, you still need to fine tune for each resolution you want to use.

[Zebra]

I've been using your guide. It's excellent.

I've got to say I am loving the crt projector quality. I think the world gave up on it too soon. I've still got a lot to do but it's so much brighter than I was expecting and the contrast is significantly better than my JVC lcos (which the specs claim to be twice as bright).

[Curt Palme]

Just beware that the tubes in this thing are TINY! Run the contrast under 80, like 60 if you can, and get a higher gain screen. Used on a small (100" diagonal) screen, these can be good sets, and that last set of ES focusing tubes that Sony made were by far the sharpest. I have seen D50s pushed too hard, that had dead tubes at 3500 hours.
With pricing being literally giveaway at this point on working CRT projectors, keep an eye out for a 9500 Ultra Marquee. If you like the D50, you'll LOVE the Marquee.

[Curt Palme]

Just beware that the tubes in this thing are TINY! Run the contrast under 80, like 60 if you can, and get a higher gain screen. Used on a small (100" diagonal) screen, these can be good sets, and that last set of ES focusing tubes that Sony made were by far the sharpest. I have seen D50s pushed too hard, that had dead tubes at 3500 hours.
With pricing being literally giveaway at this point on working CRT projectors, keep an eye out for a 9500 Ultra Marquee. If you like the D50, you'll LOVE the Marquee.

[Zebra]

[Zebra]

[Videodrome]

To remove the lines turn off ABG.
Your picture will go down in brightness but this is easy to fix with brightness/contrast bias/gain settings.

[Zebra]

[Videodrome]

Can't help you there.
I use a moome hdmi input card for 'modern' gaming, with a custom gamma curve from the PC.

I'd imagine the menu has clamp options in the INPUT SETTING that might help.
Or some setting in the PIC CTRL.

[Zebra]

[Curt Palme]

As Videodrome said, the ABG setting should get rid of that line, however if the color balance ends up being a mile off, you may need to turn it back on. Those tiny Sony tubes were driven really hard, they should never have pushed them to that level, and that throws off the color balance.

BUt, what you can do is remove the lenses (4 screws each) and put black electrical tape over just that line. Problem solved!

[Curt Palme]

As Videodrome said, the ABG setting should get rid of that line, however if the color balance ends up being a mile off, you may need to turn it back on. Those tiny Sony tubes were driven really hard, they should never have pushed them to that level, and that throws off the color balance.

BUt, what you can do is remove the lenses (4 screws each) and put black electrical tape over just that line. Problem solved!

[Zebra]

[Curt Palme]

No, that won't work.. The focal point of the lens is at the tube face, so all you'll do is cast a shadow, and a vague one at that.

YEs, 800 lumens was overrated for these tubes. 80" or smaller is what I'd recommend, but ultimately what governs phosphor life is how high the contrast is set. Sony default is 80, but if you can keep it around 50-60, you'll do well.

[Curt Palme]

No, that won't work.. The focal point of the lens is at the tube face, so all you'll do is cast a shadow, and a vague one at that.

YEs, 800 lumens was overrated for these tubes. 80" or smaller is what I'd recommend, but ultimately what governs phosphor life is how high the contrast is set. Sony default is 80, but if you can keep it around 50-60, you'll do well.

[AnalogRocks]

I ran mine on a 110" Stewart Studioteck 130 screen - 1.3 gain. Ran contrast at 65-70 ish. Looked good in a dark room.

Also gamed the snot outta it with my PS3.

[AnalogRocks]

I ran mine on a 110" Stewart Studioteck 130 screen - 1.3 gain. Ran contrast at 65-70 ish. Looked good in a dark room.

Also gamed the snot outta it with my PS3.

[Zebra]

[Zebra]

[AnalogRocks]

For my 42nd birthday I bought a gun con and House of The dead for PS2. It did not work but I only tried it in a non dark room.
I always wanted to try a 15 or 13 gain curved screen but never got the chance.

[AnalogRocks]

For my 42nd birthday I bought a gun con and House of The dead for PS2. It did not work but I only tried it in a non dark room.
I always wanted to try a 15 or 13 gain curved screen but never got the chance.