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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Fri May 05, 2023 11:16 pm Post subject: Powering up dormant g90 (and g70 and d50)??? |
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I just picked up a VPH-G90U that the owner reported as being incredibly low hours (30!!!).
First thing I'll do is check for bubbles in the glycol, see if they need to be bled.
But then, is it safe to try powering it up? I'm sure the Dallas RTC needs to be replaced asap, but can I safely power it up and give it a test? And what about new Dallas chips and they necessary programmer? Still available???
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by that1crzywhtguy on Tue May 09, 2023 3:43 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sat May 06, 2023 12:35 am Post subject: |
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No! Replace the Dallas chip first! Mandatory, or you'll probably spot burn your tubes. Craig Rounds can transfer your data, but nothing wrong with starting from scratch, as everything will default to 50%/128.
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Sat May 06, 2023 12:52 am Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | No! Replace the Dallas chip first! Mandatory, or you'll probably spot burn your tubes. Craig Rounds can transfer your data, but nothing wrong with starting from scratch, as everything will default to 50%/128. |
Glad I asked Curt! Btw nice to see ya, long time no talk. Would I lose hour count too if I didn't back up data? Is there a good known source for replacement chips still? Maybe the programmer too?
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Sat May 06, 2023 1:28 am Post subject: Re: Powering up dormant g90??? |
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| kal wrote: | | that1crzywhtguy wrote: | I just picked up a VPH-G90U that the owner reported as being incredibly low hours (30!!!).
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30 is low, isn’t it? The one time I got a brand new/unused Barco it had 100 hours on it as it’s from the manufacturer doing a test/burn-in.
How are the tubes?
Kal |
I JUST got it home. I haven't u boxed it yet and aimed a flashlight, but I'm excited to. It's just a VERY busy time round here lol.
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Sat May 06, 2023 1:37 am Post subject: |
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Thanks! It was great deal too. I'm only in under $200 after gas and toll. Just gotta find that Dallas and have a ball!
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Mon May 08, 2023 12:20 am Post subject: |
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Tracked down a new Dallas and programmer, should come this week!
What about the chips in the g70 and d50? When those die, is there risk to the tubes?
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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In addition to those other questions.... I was reading this article: http://www.curtpalme.com/Sony_G90_C_Element_Change1.shtm
Is there anywhere to still get some compatible C-Elements for these, or did I just miss the boat (by many years). Alternatively, did anyone explore maybe tinting the existing glass to achieve this effect (I expect not)?
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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Tinted c-elements used to be available from VDC and 3M if I remember correctly, but you're probably 20 years too late to purchase these. The colouring used in C-elements is done with a dye right inside the acrylic (IIRC) material. You can't do aftermarket tinting, nor can you tint the glycol on an liquid coupled projector like you can on an air coupled (since the thickness of glycol from edge to center in an LC setup isn't consistent).
Kal
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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| kal wrote: | Tinted c-elements used to be available from VDC and 3M if I remember correctly, but you're probably 20 years too late to purchase these. The colouring used in C-elements is done with a dye right inside the acrylic (IIRC) material. You can't do aftermarket tinting, nor can you tint the glycol on an liquid coupled projector like you can on an air coupled (since the thickness of glycol from edge to center in an LC setup isn't consistent).
Kal |
What about a green filter on the outside? Lol
Last edited by that1crzywhtguy on Tue May 09, 2023 7:08 pm; edited 2 times in total
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kal
Forum Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| kal wrote: | I'm not sure what a "grebe" filter is, but external filters would not work as well I would imagine.
Kal |
Stupid smartphone autocorrect. Lol
Yeah was just wondering if I could try maybe some kind of Green filters. Maybe something for photography?
I just want to maximize the experience I get! 😁
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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| kal wrote: | Try it and report back!
(Or search the forum here from 10-20 years ago for what others did as you are definitely not the first person who wants to colour filter) 
Kal |
I'll do both!
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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Too late, I already did -- 15 years ago !?!?!!!
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=60631#60631
I did some experiments measuring the RGB values of uncorrected tubes, corrected with color-filtered HD145 lenses, and corrected with inexpensive Calcolor filters. The Calcolor filters aren't perfect, but they **vastly** improve the color accuracy. It's well worth it -- unfiltered lenses produce bland flat-looking images, but proper color filtering restores the vibrant colors you want.
If I remember right, I basically just taped the Calcolor filters onto the front of the lenses. I seem to remember that it resulted in a slightly "filmy" look, somewhat affecting the sharpness/clarity of the image. But that doesn't make sense. At the front of the lens, you are so far from the focal plane that you can stick your fingers in front of the lens and it's barely noticeable on the screen. Actually now that I think of it, I think I attached the filters to the front of the CRT tubes, just misting the tube face with a bit of lens cleaner solution and using that to "glue" the filter onto the CRT. If I did that, then it WOULD have affected the sharpness slightly. Taping it to the front of the lens would probably be better, as long as you don't introduce too many reflections.
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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Fantastic info! Thanks so much! I will definitely experiment with this and read all your info! Heck yeah!
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2023 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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Great info in that thread. I think I'll experiment with some tinting options. The g90 already has some tint to the green c-element, so I suspect I'll want a light green film. Gonna look for something designed for lenses or something optical.
Last edited by that1crzywhtguy on Wed May 10, 2023 12:26 am; edited 1 time in total
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2023 12:15 am Post subject: |
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Optical quality filters will be much more expensive. I’d recommend getting some of the cheap Calcolor filters and see what you think first. You may be perfectly satisfied with the results, and if not, it’s a cheap experiment.
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that1crzywhtguy
Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 84
Location: Martinez, CA
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| Posted: Fri May 12, 2023 6:08 am Post subject: |
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So I received my new Dallas in the mail today. I removed the old one, and dumped the data with my programmer. It seemed to read it fine and verify it. I copied it to the new cheap and verified as well. I installed in and went for my first test! I get error code 88.
So, does this mean maybe the data was corrupt from the original chip? Should I try wiping the Dallas and try again to power on? Reading around here leads me to think that maybe the firmware will need to be flashed again? This apparently requires a custom cable?
Seemingly I have some work ahead of me.
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