CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

So I read the steps and performed the least intrusive parts of it.

I losened the bolts holding the angle of the lenses in place and I angled them until they primarily overlay one another.

As you can see they do not overlay very well.

To keep them in focus that was the best I could do. I could nearly match them up perfectly if I didn't care that it was extremely out of focus for say, blue.

When I stared into the green bulb to check the raster size the horizontal was WAY outside the phosphor zone. When I shortened it to the point where I could actually see the left and right sides the whole picture got pretty gnarly.

I would lose half of the popup menus on the screen. During the fine tuning with the ~30 rectangles some of them would be 95% off the side of the screen.

Before I started to mess with this I went through and set everything to 50 so I'd have a baseline. I fiddled with it for about 2hrs last night trying to figure it out.

This is some examples of how everything just didn't want to behave.

Oh! One last thing... the rectangular cover that goes over the bulbs says Barco 801s but the startup splash screen says Barco 801 and when I hit the text button the remote it changed to 801 Graphics I'm sorta confused by all this.

Here are the images:

I know the room is no great shakes.

Thanks for looking!

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:12 pm Post subject:

First question: Do you have the manual? If not, it's on the main site in the FAQ/tips section. FOLLOW IT STEP BY STEP.

You can reset all parameters to 50 by going into the service menu and selecting 'set to midposition'.

The other issue you have is that the V size of the R and B tubes aren't matched to the green, and the raster of the R and B needs to be shifted. That's not in the manual, but that's done via these 4 pots:

http://curtpalme.com/Barco500_Layout4.shtm

Other than that, follow the manual, and run through the 'guided' setup, which will sequentially take you through every step. If you get stuck, post away, but if you're taking a stab at this without the manual, you'll end up stabbing yourself in frustration. Smile

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:14 pm Post subject:

Oh, and set the width to 50%, and adjust the master width pot:

http://curtpalme.com/Barco500_Layout7.shtm

The test pattern should be _just_ off the face of the tube, then the image will be within it.

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

Forgot to ask...

Those trimpots on the vertical board, can that be done while the unit is running, so i can see the effect?

Or wil it blow up / trimpots not reachable / dangerous to do for me and the pj?

Thanks!

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

My Board looks different from the 800 listed in your article however all the familiar faces are included.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:37 pm Post subject:

Yes, the 801 is a newer board than the 800, but as you can see, the pots are labelled. Do it while the set is on.

No firmware updates. There's no need to. Smile

Remember, this is a 22 year old set, made long before firmware updates were made mandatory for a piece of product to work... this week. Ha!

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

I just had a thought.. but I cannot remember the setting name - The setting makes the top boxes the same size as the bottom boxes. At any rate - is there individual adjustment for just Red and Just blue? I think that's where there's a real problem here.

Shift-R & Shift-B at smallest setting and still they extend far past the Green.
Is there any other setting I can use?
I couldn't figure out from your configuration picture where the Shift H setting was located. There are a few trimpots in that area and I didn't want to break anything. I'll upload a pic of my board later and maybe you can point them out to me.
Here's what it looks like now, this was the best Icould do without the fine tune vector adjustments. I did do that later however it did not improve it very much. The colors still overlap.
I chose to use VGA 60hz when it asked the frequency setting before fine tune process.

Do you ever need to deconstruct the tube housing and reseat it?
Who knows what treatment this projector received before I got it? It's possible it was handled very roughly and the tubes were physically impacted.

Lastly, the image is still way beyond the left and right edges still. Of course I only fooled with the vertical adjustment.

I appreciate your guidance to all that contribute to this (lost?) cause Smile

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 8:53 pm Post subject:

Are you sure you used the SHIFT trimpots? If so, you may have a fault on the V board, as it should allow enough shift to get the images to align on top of each other.

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

It was the dark metallic ones. The center pair.

The others made the screen flicker.

Is this a board I can repair if it is bad?

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

Curt (or anyone else) do you have a board for sale? Does it matter Graphics vs Data?
Can you PM me with prices for this?

Nothing I do will level those colors at the top.

Would rebuilding (taking apart and reassembling) the tube frames help at all with this? I don't know why I keep thinking of this but it's a shot in the dark sort of idea I guess.

I found a home formula for cleaning the focus lens and the crt lens. I'm scared to use it LOL.
I think I need to buy a microfibre cloth first tho.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:26 pm Post subject:

What the problem with the V height could be is that the green V circuit is too small and that the red and blue are actually the right size. It's a rare fault, but I've seen it a couple of times with the BArco boards.

What's the 761XXX or 762XXX board number? I'm sure I have one, It will be cheaper sending you a replacement over sending that one up for repair.

The pincushioning issue could be the H shift board or the V board as well. Shoot me the part number off the H shift board as well.
Cheers!

SisterOfMercy · Posted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:20 pm Post subject:

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

I'm almost ashamed to take a picture of the lenses.
They came to me all manky.
They definitely need cleaning
I'll get those part numbers tonight. It's been a hectic weekend and beginning to the week.

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 10:51 pm Post subject:

I've got those. Assumig you're within North America, I'll sell them at $50 each incl ground shipping, about $80 incl shipping overseas.

srm73 · Joined: 23 May 2013 Posts: 32

Can you tell me how to tell if my 801s is a 'graphics'? when I hit the txt key it says graphics but the label on the unit says data.
I've read the unit can be upgraded from a data to a graphics. I'm not really looking to do that per se but it would be nice to know if it's already been upgraded.

Thank you!

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:14 pm Post subject:

If the internal menu says Graphics, then at least the firmware within the unit is a Graphics. It really doesn't matter, the set's resolution is best at 1024 X 768, so I'd run a 720p signal to it, not a 1080p. A Data unit will not display a 1080p signal, a Graphics one will, but the image will be soft.

RaWsHaRk · Joined: 01 May 2009 Posts: 131 Location: Finland

km987654 · Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 1:03 am Post subject: