CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[thewolfman]

My green goes in and out of sync again. Worked fine for about a week when I did a reinstallment in chains, but now it's back again. I ripped out the CLB 50-2036-03P ISS (The CLM, yes?) and there was a taped note on the back saying "poor focus in corners". Any thoughts on that? The Vertical Squeeze Mod has been done it seems.

Took some pictures of the color board above (Think they are called so) witch shows some heatburn signs on the back. So I lifted them slightly as they are not mounted upright but sideways. I'm sure you know what they are..

As "poor focus in corner" goes.. it's a little fuzzy, yes, but always felt that a set of Frankenyokes would correct it. Or a set of 6 pole magnets that I got laying here. Frankenyokes are coming within 2 weeks or so and will be changed for those.

Question is: Can a removal of the "Contrast Correctional Module" Really help?

http://www.curtpalme.com/Marquee_Maintenance10.shtm

"8. Contrast Correction Module

Remove the contrast modulation board (color correction module), right next to the ACON board (above the control module). This module is not in all Marquee's, look for it on the 8500, 8500LC. 9000, 9500LC.

This board will allow color correction in nine different zones. Much needed for multi-display commercial systems for edge matching and such, but not needed in video applications, and could effect the overall purity of the image – REMOVE IT!"

I have money reserved for the Frankenyokes coming up so can't spend more on DEOXIT and stuff like that at the moment.


UPDATE: When putting the CLM back the Diagnostics is running wild, back and forth, and shows no picture. PJ can only be powered off by ripping the power cord out. So much for maintenance from a hack like me.. I used a protective arm grounding thingy at all times. Ripped it out a couple of times but the result stays the same.

[Phoenixed]

Remove the contrast modulation board for sure those tend to be more trouble then their worth as ive been told.

[thewolfman]

Ok, I removed the Color Correction 50-2037-01P.

The diagnostic is still running back and forth. All it does is powering up but with no picture. Must as before pull the power cord to turn it off.

[Phoenixed]

Did you double check to make sure the rcas are tight to the board? They can come loose and cause issues too.

[thewolfman]

I don't even know what "rcas" is..

[Phoenixed]

Sorry guess thats on the vim.

[thewolfman]

Ok, did what you said. And saw several screws missing across the board. So I loosend the Stigmator that had none on it and took one from the outside and fitted it. Put it all back together and it fired up.. But it did on its own a complete inizilation. Guess I'll be tweeking 72 Hz all over again tonight. Glad I wrote the numbers down this time.

Btw, Can a bad CLM cause poor corner focus?

[Phoenixed]

I dont know if it can. I am sure the experts will be able to tell you.

I HIGHLY recommend you get the Marquee loader program and the librarian program. It aloows you to download the settings/adjustments to a file. It will save you a TON of time if something like this happens again.

[draganm]

[thewolfman]

Jesus, that took some time. Got it a little sharper on the edges, but noticed that brightness softens it quite a bit right after. I set it up with brightness at about 30, but when watching at level 57 it's quite softer, I can seen that now. Took some screen shots at 57 at the edges. I must learn how to level the lines on the tube neck because I always end up with the same corner that can't be fixed on blue. Can't get blue any lower.

And thanks btw for all the help both of you. Will make a uploader also, later.

[Phoenixed]

May I ask what pattern your using for focus?

[thewolfman]

The picture was of the big usuall random access. But also fine tune with the smaller grid at #.. Why? Maybe my tubes are somewhat old and worn to get better edge focus. It's me also of course.


Correction: I meant contrast at 57.. Brightness is always at 22.

Update: By lowering the contrast while looking at the green grid it got some what better stil on the edges. Lowered from 57 to 53.

Update 2: Nah.. went back to 57 on contrast, to dim otherwise.

Time for a movie.

[Phoenixed]

You should really use an external pattern for all calibrations and setups. This way youre seeing the actual representation from your source.

There are free patterns on avs and they even have a calibration disc/file.

[thewolfman]

[Nashou66]

Go to AVS and the calibration forum. The AVSHD 709.

Athanasios

[thewolfman]

I redid the magnets and made it a little sharper. Blue and red are almost round with a dot inside of it. Green though is triangular across the screen and impossible to make a nice even round shape to it. I have reached my limits there I think, but hope that a set of 6 pole magnets will do the rest. And can't wait for the Frankenyokes II to arrive. The VIM 03P that I bought didn't lit up red so will need to return it to Curt for mending. Otherwise some further sharpness could have been uptained. IT's not awful though.

I have got the get me set of HFQ900:s.. money money..

[Phoenixed]

How wide of a screen are you using wolfman?

[thewolfman]

It's exactly 100 diagnolay inch 2,35:1.. I'm sitting 3 meters away and think it's perfect for the exception of edge focus. A little soft..

[Phoenixed]

Ever think about using GT lenses instead of hfq900s?

[thewolfman]

I already use GT-17..it's a mix of HD-120 and GT.17.. THe same I'm told.