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crtsrcool
Joined: 05 May 2012 Posts: 20
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm Post subject: Minneapolis NEC PG9+ Setup: Help a noob in-person? |
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Hi!
So far the only projectors I've owned have been a Sony 1272 and a NEC PG9+. I loved the Sony's picture once I got it tweaked but due to a single recurring technical issue I haven't even turned it on for a year or two. Meanwhile I've kept the NEC clean, packed and ready to move. I'm moving to a small studio apartment in Minneapolis the first week of June and I was just wondering if there was anyone there with more experience who wouldn't mind stopping by and helping me out fairly soon after I arrive.
From what I've read NECs are a little more complicated than Sonys, so I just thought I could use a hand to make sure I don't goof too badly.
I can't afford any serious kind of calibration or whatever from a real home theater tech, and I'll be putting the projector very near the floor, possibly under a table or something to save space. So it's definitely a very informal setup and all I'll ask for help with is mostly about getting familiar with the internals and menus and technical limitations, going through any processes particular to the brand/model, etc.
My only sources for it are going to be HTPC, a couple video game systems and my beloved laserdisc player. I have a Crescendo Systems RTC2000, and a component/S-Video/RCA in/out hub, too. Altogether a relatively simple chain.
I don't expect to be helped for free of course, so just let me know what you think is fair.
I just hope it survives the trip in the U-Haul trailer!
Thanks, bye!
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 2:06 am Post subject: |
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You should connect the video game consoles with RGB, almost every single one of them has that output, or you can easily make them do it, with the exception of about 2 or 3.
Im quite ill at the moment and have to go back and lay down but i will come back and post up a procedure for you soon that i have posted up a few times, if you search my previous posts youll probably find it. It was quite well detailed, and if you follow it, you should end up with about as good as you get.
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 10:55 am Post subject: |
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This will do you for now, i cant seem to find the newer one i did. If anyone else knows what thread it was in post up a link to it, i reckon it was alot better than the one below.
| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: |
Ok, you need to move the image to the center of the red tube face, then angle the red tube so it aligns in the center of the screen, when it seems to do, so that is ok. It needs to come down though, so with the cross hair, it lines up in the middle. The rest isnt important yet.
You need to center all the controls for the red before you do the above step
You need to reset all the "POINT" data, go to the "CONVERGENCE" menu and press CTRL and NORMAL at the same time, and it should ask if you wish to delete all POINT data. This is only if you have a point board.
Next, youll use the LINEARITY control, press CTRL and R and get to the red tube adjustment, and move the red linearity to the right. If it goes the wrong way when you press the right arrow, youve got the convergence plugs around the wrong way somewhere.
When the red boxes on the left and right line up with the same amount of gap, use the AMPLITUDE to make them line up perfectly.
Now, at the right edge, i see a slight downkick bend, correct the CENTER LINE with the BOW control, get it as straight as you can, THEN you use the PIN CUSHION and PIN BALANCE to correct the other lines. ONLY use BOW to do the center line of the cross hair.
The red grid is fatter on the left, so you need to adjust the KEYSTONE to get that to line up with the other grids, and go back to AMPLITUDE to get the size correct again.
Using KEY-BALANCE will help to level the image horizontally, and get the lines perpendicular across the whole screen.
By this point, you should have the red in alignment with the rest. It should all be pretty much perfectly lined up in the center of the screen before you move any electronic settings, so that means aim the red and blue, set focus, re-aim, move images of red and blue up or down to line up with green, aiming for all pictures in the middle of the screen.
Now when you get the red and blue images lined up for amplitude and linearity, you will have to re-check the centering of those 2 images on the tube faces, then re-aim angles of the blue and red, because when you move the linearity, the image center wont really move on the tube face, BUT THE EDGES WILL, and the edges will have moved in on one side, and out on the other, meaning the image will now be slightly off to one side of the red and blue tube faces. That will cause the image to loose focus where it gets closer to the tube face edges.
Once youve got it pretty spot on, use the POINT to get it perfect, and if youve got it all set up right, and it is square to the screen, it shouldnt need any POINT in the center area, and shouldnt need any along the cross hair either, around the corners shouldnt need more than 5 or so taps. If youve got POINT installed, you shouldve used that when you had the green set as perfect as you could get it, and use the point on green to get it perfect BEFORE you line up the other 2 colours.
It takes a fair while, but you want it done right, or the picture will look shithouse, and the projector will end up rooted. |
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crtsrcool
Joined: 05 May 2012 Posts: 20
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| Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks! I hope you feel better soon!
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crtsrcool
Joined: 05 May 2012 Posts: 20
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 12:51 am Post subject: |
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Hi again!
I was just thinking that I'll probably need to get a video scaler too, not only for my older video game consoles that only have composite/S-video, but also for my laserdisc player, which also only has s-video and composite output.
Now the chain gets more complicated I guess. Not sure where it will link into the chain, I guess the first step is to get one. I think I remember reading somewhere that there are supposed to be high quality older models cheap lately, something like that would be perfect...
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HaydnG90
Joined: 22 May 2006 Posts: 1356
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:31 am Post subject: |
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The lumagen HDP Pro's are well priced now and perfect for your application.
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ecrabb Forum Moderator
Joined: 13 Mar 2006 Posts: 15909 Location: Utah
TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 4:02 am Post subject: |
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Depends on your budget, but if you don't have a fairly new AV receiver with advanced audio, you could also throw the scaler money toward a newer AVR with analog-to-HDMI scaling. You'd need to add an HD Fury for D/A, but your signal chain could be much more modern, and some of the inexpensive AVRs have scaling that's probably as good or better than the Lumagens from half a decade ago.
Everything could be had used at significant savings, too.
SC
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:09 am Post subject: |
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What consoles do you have that dont have RGB output?? They almost all do, the NES and 3DO and probably the only ones that are very hard to get RGB from.
The rest pretty much ALL put it out the back, or it can very easily be tapped from the CXA 1145 inside them ( CXA 1645 in the case of later machines. )
If you go through a scaler from composite video on game consoles, its going to look sh** compared to pure RGB direct. I know this cause ive modded hundreds of consoles and done ALOT of testing.
| ecrabb wrote: | Depends on your budget, but if you don't have a fairly new AV receiver with advanced audio, you could also throw the scaler money toward a newer AVR with analog-to-HDMI scaling. You'd need to add an HD Fury for D/A, but your signal chain could be much more modern, and some of the inexpensive AVRs have scaling that's probably as good or better than the Lumagens from half a decade ago.
Everything could be had used at significant savings, too.
SC |
Unless you can test it first, dont assume an AVR will display a 15.75kHz signal in 240p, cause i havent yet seen one that does ( havent tested heaps, but have tested a few ). Neither of mine do, they will display a broken image, but they dont accept the 240p, which is what almost all retro consoles run at.
Probably not an issue for the other items, but the games, youll be lucky.
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gjaky
Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 2802 Location: Budapest, Hungary
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 11:54 am Post subject: |
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I have a Sega master system II which only has HF out (not even composite) -best console ever!
_________________ projectors in the past : NEC 6-9PG xtra, Electrohome Marquee 6-7500, NEC XG 1351 LC ( with super modified Electrohome VNB neckboard !!!)
current: VDC Marquee 9500LC
The MOD: VNB-DB, VIM-DB
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crtsrcool
Joined: 05 May 2012 Posts: 20
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies everybody!
The only consoles I have that are going to be much of a hassle in terms of AV connections are a Sega Genesis with 32x and SegaCD.
My sega looks exactly like that.
I know I could do emulators and stuff but
The tricky thing about this one might be because the video output is from the 32x, not from the Sega Genesis underneath it...? Maybe this would work, then I wouldn't have to solder/wire anything... But if you know something better please suggest.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-seller-32X-RGB-SCART-cable-with-boosted-sync-no-jailbars-/200731777354?pt=Video_Games_Accessories&hash=item2ebc8bd94a
Also just FWIW, my laserdisc player is a Pioneer CLD-D770. I guess I'm stuck with s-video/composite and an upscaler as far as that one goes
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crtsrcool
Joined: 05 May 2012 Posts: 20
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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| HaydnG90 wrote: | | The lumagen HDP Pro's are well priced now and perfect for your application. |
Recent ads on videogon list this model between $300 and $500, which is simply too much for me. I cannot afford any scaling solution with a cost above $100. Thanks for the suggestion though!
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 6:41 am Post subject: |
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All Sega consoles to date have got RGB output. Buy the SCART cable for the MegaDrive 2 / 32x console ( same cable ) and for the first model MegaDrive, make your own cable, and mod it internally ( very easy, i can help you with that, if you can solder 1 wire )
Here are the pinouts for both consoles:
http://www.gamesx.com/avpinouts/genesisav.htm
| gjaky wrote: | I have a Sega master system II which only has HF out (not even composite) -best console ever!  |
The Master System 2 DOES have RGB, it is very very easy to get it. Its probably the EASIEST of the consoles to mod. Gjaky, you should EASILY be able to do this mod, youll need a 10uF cap, 3x 220uF caps, 3x 75ohm resistors, a plug and socket to add to the rear of the machine and some small wire.
I have modded loads of these, and i disable the RF output, then connect the audio to that RCA socket, cause there is only mono audio anyway. Then add your other socket anywhere on the back you want, and wire it all to the Sony CXA1145 chip. Sync is on pin 11 of the CXA1145.
If you want some more help with it all, let me know, ill steer you to some info.
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