CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

jeffslife · Joined: 17 Apr 2010 Posts: 4190 Location: ohio usa

Or should it be a moving picture ? Does a moving pic wear the tubes more ?
I read somewhere that the tubes wear even when the pj is in STANDBY , is that true ?

LOTREE · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 12:56 am Post subject:

A white screen will warm up the tubes faster and burn them faster. It's not something I'd suggest doing all the time but I have at times. Regarding image burn, the tube face is still being traced the same number of times regardless if the image is moving or not but in different areas leading to a more even, extended wear. The difference being a static bright image can spot burn, eg. windows login, taskbar, channel logos, etc.

If the projector is in standby there should be no phosphorus wear. You could have 20,000 standby hours on a chassis yet only 2000 on the tubes.

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

i never bothered, just turn on the pj and watch a movie or play a game, that is what i do anyway.
converging should be done on a warmed up pj however but you will most likely know that.

ChrisWiggles · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:57 am Post subject:

Most of the warm-up is electrical drift which happens regardless of what the picture is.

The phosphor tube surface itself will not wear if there is no image being projected.

As far as "standby" wear on the chassis and other aspects of tube life, it depends on what projector you're talking about. Some use "standby" basically to refer to OFF and waiting to be powered up via remote control. Others use "standby" to mean fully powered on but with the image muted, and chassis hours are accruing and the unit is totally on just no image. So it depends.

jeffslife · Joined: 17 Apr 2010 Posts: 4190 Location: ohio usa

I meant standby as off waiting to be turned on by remote.
So there is no tube wear on a white screen ? Or is the white screen considered an image ?
It is right ?

ChrisWiggles · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 4:11 am Post subject:

White screen absolutely wears, the most. It just does so evenly.

If standby is equivalent to off, then there is no phosphor wear at all.

jeffslife · Joined: 17 Apr 2010 Posts: 4190 Location: ohio usa

cool. Thank you.
I have another g70 with about 5000 hrs but it has Windows Vista logo burned in
would running a white screen help to minimize that ?

ChrisWiggles · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:39 am Post subject:

It depends how bad. If it's only very very slight, it would help some. But if it's burnt bad, it's not going to do too much. All you're really doing is wearing everything and trying to make everything slightly more equally worn-out.

It's like having one worn-out tire. You could drive around for 50K miles and then have all your tires pretty worn out, but one particularly bad. But because they're all worn now, maybe you don't notice it quite as much. But it doesn't fix anything and it doesn't get you a new tire...

Others have played around with trying to wear an inverse image in to help out, but not sure anyone's had much real luck with that. That's like wearing just three of your tires, so now you have four equally worn-out tires. But not sure anyone's been truly successful at that.

richardc · Joined: 13 Feb 2008 Posts: 32 Location: Australia

Hi Guys
I believe it has more to do with the mechanical coupling with the Hybrid Lens (Glass and Plastic) as they heat convergence changes slightly.
But I still turn my 30 min warm up off.
Also the Vertical and Horizontal Amps will have to stabilize to.
Regards
Richard

Spanky Ham · Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 5643 Location: Comedy Central

Jeff,
You may want to try to even out the wear to reduce the logo. Like Chris said, it just wears the rest of the phosphor to the level of the logo, but it would make it less noticeable.

jeffslife · Joined: 17 Apr 2010 Posts: 4190 Location: ohio usa

Any ideas on the best way to do that ?

dturco · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 4:09 pm Post subject:

AFryia · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 8:05 pm Post subject:

I run the white screen warm-up for 1 min. until the image stabilizes then switch to a full screen (16:9) OTA HD signal and finish off with that. I use a macro programmed on my remote.

IMO the white screen left on too long may stress the PJ more than necessary. It falls along the same line that you color calibrate greyscale with a 20 or 30% square verses full screen.