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atotaldoofus
Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 66
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:07 am Post subject: Toe-In Trouble! Help Please? |
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Hi!
Okay, I've learnt a lot - but now I've run into another snag.
Let's state the issue first: My red just BARELY meets my green (on the vertical axis) and I have to nudge green itself over a bit to fully align with red, with red at its maximum value (to bring it as close to green as possible.) This leaves blue so far away that even at its maximum value it is nowhere NEAR the other two.
My size/zone settings might be a few "points" off from ideal - but nowhere near that bad! I'd guess the margin of error in my settings is about six points at maximum.
I haven't done the washer mod to my 1272Q and the DIY directions for that mod make no sense to me - I'm absolutely no good with that kind of work. So I'm using the spacers that came with my PJ, which are all labeled, "XR-2-REAR", with X being R, G, or B. Seems weird to see "rear" instead of "front" - but these are all I've got.
Strangely, my blue lens housing seems actually to protrude further out from the chassis than the red - but wouldn't this bring the blue raster closer into the middle instead of pushing it farther out to the side? Really confusing!
I've double checked the screws holding the blue lens housing on and they're all secure - nothing loose there...
I've also triple-checked my measurements in terms of the PJ's orientation to the wall. While I'll admit that my methods aren't 100 percent precise due to the fact that I'm not trying to fill the screen completely and my projector has to placed a little off-center of the screen, there's no way that they're so far off as to cause this. One edge of the PJ might be 3/8 of an inch closer to the screen than the other edge - at most.
I just don't know where the problem lies! If I can't figure it out, then I'll have to Zone/Size my blue raster further in, which means I'll have to scale down Green and Red to match it.
All settings were set to 128 points and saved, as exampled in Graham's video - so it's not another setting throwing it off!
Any ideas? I've had this PJ for about two months and have made barely any progress.
Thanks so much!
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:38 am Post subject: |
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I know nothing of Sony but the process of aiming lenses (give or take a bit) is the same for all crt displays. If you have the red and blue lenses toed in to the max with the test patterns centered on the tube faces then the projector is to close to the screen. What is the distance between the green lens and the center of the screen? What is the screen size you are trying to fill? You admit that the projector is NOT centered on the screen. That's the first NO NO. Do you have the installation manual for this projector?
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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Use 'zone 1' to move the red raster around. The R and B shift controls are fine tuning only, that's most likely where your problem is.
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atotaldoofus
Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 66
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Stefuel - I'm not trying to fill the screen. I ordered a screen that was too big so I'm just going to let it fill whatever it does at the distance which I must put the projector at. That distance is about 94 inches. I'm not sure if the toe-in procedure is the same for this projector as it is for others - apparently i can only select from a few spacers, or insert washers, rather than being able to freely adjust the lenses. That's how it seems anyway. I don't have the adjustments that Graham does in his video.
Hi Curt -
Is "Zone 1" Different from what I get by pressing Zone and then Adj. Red? Sorry I wasn't clear: I'm not using the Red and Blue Shift or Zone controls to try to toe them in electrically, I'm using the Red and Blue Center functions, just to the left of the arrow buttons. I haven't used the RGB Shift/Size buttons for anything yet and I have only used Zone and Size and a little Pin to get the raster to fill most of the tube face.
Okay thanks again, bye!
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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What is the minimum screen size for that projector?
At about a 1.4 X the screen width of 80 inches would be about 112.0
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Vibe
Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 164 Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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You need to remove those spacers and do the spring mod shown here on Curt's site. It will allow you to "toe in" for any size screen you wish.
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| atotaldoofus wrote: |
Hi Curt -
Is "Zone 1" Different from what I get by pressing Zone and then Adj. Red? Sorry I wasn't clear: I'm not using the Red and Blue Shift or Zone controls to try to toe them in electrically, I'm using the Red and Blue Center functions, just to the left of the arrow buttons. I haven't used the RGB Shift/Size buttons for anything yet and I have only used Zone and Size and a little Pin to get the raster to fill most of the tube face.
Okay thanks again, bye! |
Yes, that's your problem. THe R and B centering controls to the left of the arrow keys are for fine adjustments only. Use Zone 1 for coarse adjustments to bring the R and B shifts to where you need them to be.[/b]
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atotaldoofus
Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 66
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, thanks for the replies!
I know I should do the spring mod - but like I said, I'm no good at those kinds of projects; I get confused just reading the guides.
My screen is 96 inches wide and 72 inches long. With the PJ about 94 inches away, I think the image I'm throwing is about 80 inches. I have no idea why this is the case - I've got my rasters centered and set as large as possible until the corners of the rasters almost touch the opaque border around the tube face.
Curt -
Just a couple questions to make sure that I understand -
So what you're saying for me to do is scale down the rasters with "Size" until there's enough lateral room to adjust them using "Zone" to get them aligned?
Hm - then I wonder which would get the bigger image, bringing the projector closer and using more of the tube face, or leaving it back far and using less, as would be the case in that situation?
What makes "Zone" a "1", rather than 2 or 3 etc?
Thanks again, bye!
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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I don't know where you came up with the 94 inch throw distance for a 96 inch wide screen. The average throw ratio is about 1.4 X screen width. Your screen width is 96 inches. So 1.4 X 96 = 134.4 inches. The center of your green lens to the center of the screen should be 134.4 inches. You are about 40 inches to close to the screen.
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:43 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like you are using spacers designed for rear projection setups. They may have a much shorter throw distance than front projection spacers. I'm not going to be the one to say this again, but this information might be your next step.. If you can't get the tubes to line up by pushing the electronics to the limit then you might have to do something else to make it right.
| Vibe wrote: | | You need to remove those spacers and do the spring mod shown here on Curt's site. It will allow you to "toe in" for any size screen you wish. |
Maybe you can find the correct spacers for your application instead.
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 Posts: 3068 Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:00 pm Post subject: |
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| stefuel wrote: | | I know nothing of Sony but the process of aiming lenses (give or take a bit) is the same for all crt displays. If you have the red and blue lenses toed in to the max with the test patterns centered on the tube faces then the projector is to close to the screen. What is the distance between the green lens and the center of the screen? What is the screen size you are trying to fill? You admit that the projector is NOT centered on the screen. That's the first NO NO. Do you have the installation manual for this projector? |
Chip, you can't actually toe in a 12xx sony. They have fixed spacers.
That's why they need washer mods.
(The spring mod is for FLAPPING, not Toe-in.)
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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Mark, The spring mod he is referring to is for toe-in. I have done it several times, and have the necessary hardware available. I bought the stuff in bulk when I did mine. Now that I no longer use a Sony I have no idea where it is but it is here somewhere.
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 Posts: 3068 Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 12:01 am Post subject: |
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Ok, that's not how we did it.
We used rubber plumbing washers (from a tap washer) for the toe in.
And cone springs for the flapping.
This was about 6 years ago now.
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 12:16 am Post subject: |
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FWIW, I've never seen the RP spacers, but regardless of whether S. M or L spacers were used for front projection use, I've always had enough range using the zone 1 controls for left/right adjustments of the raster, no matter what the screen size (OK, say 8' wide max).
As long as the raster wasn't right to the edges of the tubes, you should be fine. I do have spare spacers if you want the right ones.
Generally speaking, the throw should be 1.4 X the width of the screen. That should put the H width setting at somewhere between say 160 and 210, which is about right. Anything higher than that, and you risk shooting off the edges of the tube face.
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atotaldoofus
Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 66
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 3:55 am Post subject: |
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Ok, so what I'm going to do is decrease the "Size" setting of my Red, Blue and Green Tubes, until they are small enough that, by moving the raster around on the tube face with the "Zone" control (I still have no idea what you mean by Zone 1) I can get them toed-in.
I still think it's weird how inexplicably off-kilter the Blue is, and how it protrudes further out than the red lens, but I guess nobody else knows anything about that either.
thanks
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:19 am Post subject: |
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| atotaldoofus wrote: | | I still think it's weird how inexplicably off-kilter the Blue is, and how it protrudes further out than the red lens, but I guess nobody else knows anything about that either.thanks |
This sounds like the lens is not installed correctly. I'm not sure how that could be but the blue should not be protruding out farther than the others.
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atotaldoofus
Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 66
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:16 am Post subject: |
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I agree - but I've checked the screws, all seems okay in that regard, and don't know what else to check for that kind of thing.
Okay, raster coverage of the tube face will be fairly pitiful now, but I think that I can make them small enough to get them to align.
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 Posts: 3068 Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:24 am Post subject: |
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| atotaldoofus wrote: |
I still think it's weird how inexplicably off-kilter the Blue is, and how it protrudes further out than the red lens, but I guess nobody else knows anything about that either.
thanks |
We aren't psychic.
We need photos to figure out if something is wrong.
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atotaldoofus
Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 66
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:18 am Post subject: |
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I don't own any kind of camera at all. If you've any ideas about what it might be then I'll describe any aspect of it in detail.
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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In one of your first posts here you stated the lenses were tilted but symmetrical. You also stated that the case was floppy and needed top be replaced. With it banged up as much as you say this would lead me to think that there may be some damage to either the lens or the lens mount.
| atotaldoofus wrote: | Hi!
I'm really new to CRT projectors! This is my first project!
I got a Sony VPH 1272Q locally for cheap, thinking I ought to familiarize myself with a simple, cheap model before buying into the more expensive ones, like 8", LC 9", etc.
I really don't know what to make of the set so far - the case in an absolutely trashed state, it just barely hangs on, it's obviously missing little chunks... It seems like the plastic has lost a lot of tension; it's like it's slumping down onto the projector internals rather than standing above them, and both the big "shell" and the cover that fits around the front lenses are very loose. Is it safe to even have these on there? I want to get the projector setup without having to first wait for replacement parts to come in from somewhere... I'll order another case sometime, but what should I do in the meantime to make the best of this situation, with the floppy case-pieces I'm stuck with?
I've read the Sony manual and I just don't understand which controls relate to the raster/tube adjustments. Nothing seems to explicitly state, "this increases the coverage of the raster on the tube face" in the manual, so I'm just not sure... Can you please tell me which it is?
Should I turn the "Dynamic Contrast" feature on, or leave it off? I can't find any information in the manual or on the internet about just what the heck this feature is supposed to do!...but it sounds good?
At the distance my projector is currently, the red and blue tubes seem to have perfectly symmetrical "tilts" which bring up their corners on each side of the screen. So, there's a white square in the middle, but also a red corner tipping up and out at the right, and likewise for a blue on the left. Since the these askew angles are symmetrical, does that mean that the problem is NOT astigmatism but simply that the washers are set for the wrong distance?
Okay, those are my dumb questions for now - but I'll have more as I keep working on this thing!
Thanks again for reading my post and for helping me out! Bye!  |
If the blue lens is in a different position now than when you first posted either there is something broken or you have something not assembled correctly. You may want to take that lens off and find out what is going on there.
A picture would be worth a thousand words.
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