CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

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So I finally swapped the green CRT in my Runco 1100 (more or less a Barco 1209s). Overall it was not too painful a process. I have done 8" tubes before and the 9" are a bit easier in my opinion. I do love the 1209 chassis, tube removal was a very easy with 4 bolts and two slide in "latches" to remove. You don't have to remove any other part of the chassis which is very nice indeed.

Once you have the tube out you need to drain the glycol by removing two screws in back and once that is done remove the c-element and sealing o ring. Cutting the tube out of the tube out of the hardware is the nastiest part of the job. The tube is very tight in the hardware. I didn't want to try soaking the tube in solvent due to the rubber bellows. It took a lot of effort and a very large knife (be careful) to cut out the tube. Once you have done that you need to make sure you get all four plastic tube spacers that are in the frame to keep the tube offset correctly. Clean the hardware of all remaining silicone. Use water and then compressed air to clean and dry everything. Install spacers, install new tube, center in hardware, use a hot glue gun to put a small dab of glue on each side to hold tube while you are putting silicone in. Next put some heat shrink tubing or similar so you can get silicone down deep in the hardware as required. Once done let sit for several days. Next you will need to remove and replace HV lead if your tube didn't come with one. I was very generous with silicone around this and it looks awful but I got no arcing so I am happy. After at least a week put in new glycol. The way I did it was, first put in the drain screws, next use compressed air to blow out everything in the glycol reservoir and finally put tube in vertical position (I cut a hole in a large cardboard box that I put some weight into as ballast). Fill up the reservoir to the cutout you see near the top/front of assembly. Install C element (again use compressed air to clean). Finally you might need to top up glycol a little through drain ports (I used syringe).

As for my new green, I purchased from Greg Eisemann. His price was very competitive as compared to tubular outlet and well below VDC's crazy prices. The tube came to me with no labels but the gun in it was the pink/white ceramic gun insulator pair I have seen in labeled lugs in the past. I am very happy with the operation of the tube. The asitg dialed in very nice. I have used both "new" rebuilds and new MEC p16s and this green dialed in much easier and was consistent from the center of the tube to the edges. Resolution as compared to the red P19LPB in the set was a bit better (qualitative impression) but that may have been due to new versus used tube. The phosphor grain was very smooth as well as you would expect in a new tube. Overall I am very happy with the tube and the price.

Oh and I did not mod the 1209s neckboards for the lug and it works fine.

[Curt Palme]

FWIW, I find cutting the tubes out of a Barco mount about the easiest of all, but I always manage to go through a full Olfa blade while doing it. I always snap the blades in the corners of the tube.

[Curt Palme]

FWIW, I find cutting the tubes out of a Barco mount about the easiest of all, but I always manage to go through a full Olfa blade while doing it. I always snap the blades in the corners of the tube.

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Curt yeah the corners were a b--ch for sure. I broke a blade there. Otherwise for the first time I had ever done it, not so bad.