CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

rabies_70 · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:01 pm Post subject: P16LJE07

Anybody here know if
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=370153300921#ebayphotohosting

is the kind of tube you can use in a G70 if you do the neckboard mod?

perisoft · Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 2920 Location: Ithaca, NY

Wear pattern seems kinda small and/or offset, though.

rabies_70 · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:06 pm Post subject:

I'm cool with the wear pattern for the price if these are the right stuff. Peri do you know if they are correct?

NewbieDAN · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:55 pm Post subject:

Them's the ones.

rabies_70 · Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 12:29 am Post subject:

SWEET. Thanks for the reply. Funny thing, I have looked over most of the info on Curts site whether it was relevant to my setup or not. And the other day I went over the G70 tube replacement tutorial and those numbers stuck in my head. Then this morning I wake up and do my normal check the sites thing and saw these on the bay. So for my back up back up set of tubes, these will be just what the doctor ordered.

My dumb ass has now acquired, one fully functional g70, 2 1/2 complete sets of extra boards and internal parts, one set of mint tubes with all the stuff still on them, a bare green about a 7-8 and then this set of 7-8's. All this I have obtained with the intent of "just in case something goes afoul" and so I can use my set for the next 10 years. I am officially a dumbass now, right? Twisted Evil

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 4:53 am Post subject:

Adopt me!

km987654 · Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:22 am Post subject:

rabies_70 · Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:47 pm Post subject:

The tubes all arrived 3 arrived in good shape. Better than I had anticipated. I will post pics later. My question now is, I know I read somewhere about removing the housing that seams bonded to the face of these tubes. I thought you had to soak them in mineral spirits or something. I was searching here and over there and it didn't pop out at me. Anyone know off the top of their heads what I am talking about?

Zebu Fellenz · Joined: 21 Dec 2006 Posts: 2567

Mark_A_W · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:38 am Post subject:

Yes just soak it face down in a foil tray filled with Mineral Turpentine (you may call this Mineral Spirits it seems).

Make sure it's deep enough to over the housing and go in the back = about 20mm deep.

After about 3 days, CAREFULLY cut the glass off the front, cut the silicone around the back, and push the tube out with some blocks of wood and a couple of clamps.

Soak it OUTSIDE or in the shed. The fumes will make you ill (and contain a little xylene, which is carcinogenic).

rabies_70 · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:54 am Post subject:

What is going to make me ill is the stress of thinking about cutting the goo free and "gently" with blocks of wood and a clamp freeing the tube. Shocked

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:57 am Post subject:

Ahhh give it a whack with a hammer. Like the ones you use at the fair to hit the pad to ding the bell when it goes up to the top of the slider.

Laughing

Zebu Fellenz · Joined: 21 Dec 2006 Posts: 2567

NewbieDAN · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:22 am Post subject:

double post

NewbieDAN · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:22 am Post subject:

OK firstly you need to locate the two little grub screws under silicone on the outside of the AC housing, once you find and remove those you've exposed the chamber for the glycol, you need to get a syringe, load the syringe with air and then tip the tube upside down and force the air into one hole whilst collecting the purged glycol into a container from the other. Once you've evacuated the chamber I refilled it with plain old 'mineral turpentine' and replace the grub screws and let it sit for 24 hours. What this does is loosen the silicone from the INSIDE.

OK whilst the chamber is now full of turps (at the same time), find a shallow dish maybe an inch deep, you need to put the tube face down (protect the front glass from being scratched with something) then fill the shallow container with more turps completely submerging the glass, but DON'T go so deep that turps gets behind the back of the tube, as the lead tape around the bell can get discolored....so leave the whole show soaking for the 24 hours.

You then need to get some sort of razor blade, those craft blades that have a folded metal end one side, as thin as you can find them, between the glass and the AC housing you need to carefully score the silicone with the intention of picking it all out, I did mine in two stages, score it remove the soft silicone after about 12 hours, back in the bath for another 12, and basically the glass fell out pretty easy after that.

Don't let the soft silicone dry on the actual glass face of the tube, do a prelim cleanup now.

Then I measured and fashioned two blocks of MDF timber and screwed them together. The first 16mm block was a round cornered rectangle sized to fit INSIDE the housing occupying as much surface area of the glass as possible (to spread the load about to be placed on it over the maximum area) I also glued a piece of felt over the top of the block to stop the tube's glass from scratching. To that I screwed a larger block just over size of the AC housing.

The idea is to force the AC housing down with a spacer on the tube glass, so your clamping down the housing to the underside of the spacer block, whilst holding the tube back. Then get as many "G clamps" as you can get on with a minimum of 6, and in a diagonal sequence to load up the pressure evenly screw down the clamps over the blocks to press off the housing. I did take a couple of photos I can send, drop me an email, as a picture says a thousand words. And keep tightening (you'll be thinking it's too much pressure) until it POPS off. (don't let the tube fall over at this critical point), the sooner you can do this after the turps bath the better, as it will be easier with softer silicone.

Once it's off you need to remove all the silicone residue off the now (yah) bare tube, do this carefully as the tube face glass scratches very easily. And your done.

I was probably over cautious, but I was removing a housing off a brand new tube, and stood to lose if I rushed it, so I was overly careful.

It was a very satisfying job, and well worth the trouble if your up to it. The anode swap is another good one, and I took great pride in having the perfect bead of HV silicone, I recon I did an nicer job than Sony does....well I did two they do how many?

rabies_70 · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:54 pm Post subject:

NewbieDAN Thanks a million for taking the time write out such a detailed answer. I am going to home depot today to get some "turps". The tubes I got from ebay look much better in person than the listing photos show. That meat housing spooked me a wee bit. Thanks again...ray