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barco_75
Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 171
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:43 am Post subject: Glycol leak? |
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Appears I have a leak on the green tube. The liquid is kind of shiny like molten solder. Projector is a Barco D708 and has Liquid cooled tubes. The leak appears to be coming from where the LC chamber is sealed to the tube. Can I just use some plain 100% silicon sealant to seal this up at that intersection. Or would that cause issues if the silicon touches the tube?
Also, is Glycol safe to touch???? I made sure not to touch it, so my fingers would not fall off.
Leak seems to be a slow one and not a gusher so hopefully this is the source of the leak. I guess to be sure I should pull the tube and whip them off to be sure. If it is a slow leak and I haven't lost much Glycol is there any need to add more Glycol?
I reviewed the post regarding refilling and pulling the bellows / c-element. Hopefully, I don't have to go that far. I'm a newbie, and I'm afraid that might be a little over my head.
http://home.c2i.net/tomcat/celement.htm
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=12094.html
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Yes, you need to remove tube and check where it's leaking. Same time you see if there is bellows. Clean also all glycol from projector.
Probably there is pressure in chamber and that makes it leak from sealant between tube and lc-chamber. Remove convection hose (if there is one) and bleed little glycol out and leave there some air for expansion. Too much air will be seen in top of c-element and can cause reflections to picture.
Clean leaking spot with some solvent and seal it using RTV sealant ("silicone" for car motor). Ethyleneglycol is safe to touch, but it's poisonous when drinked.
You should also bleed two other tubes, to prevent leaks in future.
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kschmit2
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1141
Location: Heidelberg, Germany
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:05 am Post subject: |
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Is that really an LC PJ?
If not, there are no C-Elements (optically or liquid coupled, LC). Just the glycol chamber behind the front glass (air coupled, AC).
Kai
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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barco_75
Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 171
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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What type of solvet should be used? Also, where is the convection tube and what does it look like (if I have one?). Anything special needs to be known regarding pulling the tubes? Is it as simple as unbolting it and disconnecting all the wires? Anything I shouldn't touch?
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TbX
Joined: 06 May 2006
Posts: 94
Location: Sweden
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barco_75
Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 171
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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I'll check. Wish I could take a better photo, it's really hard getting in there
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barco_75
Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 171
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 5:52 am Post subject: Finally checking this out |
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Well it looks like the convection tube is the issue. It is leaking at the connection. Which would you recommend? Just apply RTV sealant all around the connection or pull the connection out and reseal? I don't see any tears in the convection tube. I guess I could cut the hose shorter, but I'm concerned of losing lots of glycol in the process.
Do I need to still bleed the system? I can squeeze the tube with two fingers and it is not tight. If I turn the tube with the face of the tube up, I don't see any air bubbles. I'm thinking it is just a bad connection, not a buildup of pressure???
One of the convection tube has developed a weak spot in the middle of the tube and bends under it's own weight. It's not leaking.... Maybe I should cut the tube shorter? Still not sure how not to lose alot the gylcol if I remove the tube.
BTW there are no bellows...
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 9:46 am Post subject: |
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There won't be much glycol spill if you remove convection tube in position like your upper picture. It is highest point in tank. You can also tilt it little so it would be even higher.
Cut 1" or so from tube and use new hose tie.
If it look like it's spilling from hose nipple thread, then you need to remove and clean it. Seal it with rtv or thread tape added to thread.
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barco_75
Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 171
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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Where would I get a new hose tie? Can I use one of the automotive screw type hose clamp? If the convection tube is squishy then I'm I oK and don't need to bleed?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_clamp.
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barco_75
Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 171
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, I'm a totally tool. Wasn't even thinking and removed the hose, went to go grab a tool, and dropped the hose. Gylcol everywhere. Guess I bleed the system!! So any recommendation on the type of glycol to get where to get it for this Barco 708 retroblock? I see it might be available Tritronics or Andrews, or even MCM. Should I empty it all out, or just add more? Do I need to flush out the old?
Crap, nothing is ever easy 
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Use rubber gloves to clean up the glycol. It can be absorbed through the skin and is considered a hazardous material.
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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| barco_75 wrote: | Ok, I'm a totally tool. Wasn't even thinking and removed the hose, went to go grab a tool, and dropped the hose. Gylcol everywhere. Guess I bleed the system!! So any recommendation on the type of glycol to get where to get it for this Barco 708 retroblock? I see it might be available Tritronics or Andrews, or even MCM. Should I empty it all out, or just add more? Do I need to flush out the old?
Crap, nothing is ever easy |
if the old Glycol is clear, you can re-use it but keep in mind that it's probably contaminated with whatever chemicals leached out of the old hose. Old Glycol that appears clear is sually yellow once you compare it to fresh liquid. Do it right, replace the hose and put in new fluid. IT's not that expensive and the amount of time this takes to do has a cost too.
hose runs a dollar a foot or less
SAE-Rated Buna-N Fuel and Hydraulic Hose
SAE 30R7 Hose
* Use with petroleum-based oil, fuel oil, gasoline, diesel fuel, grease, coolants, antifreeze
* Tube: Buna-N
* Cover: Blended Buna-N/PVC
* Reinforcement: Polyester yarn spiral
* Temp. Range: -40° to +257° F
* Vacuum: 24" Hg @ 72° F
* Color: Black
* Hose Material Meets: SAE 30R7
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barco_75
Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 171
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 1:53 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the tips. It looks like I have some Glycol on the copper that wraps around the tubes. Am I up a creek? Or is the Glycol only corrosive to the actual boards but not electrical components mounted on boards?? How would you suggest I clean it? I have some Electric motor cleaner, which seems safe for cleaning electronics.
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