CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

Just checking to see if this is the best way to go about it.

The green tube on my new pj has got fungus the red and blue are clear as day or glycol allowing no trace of fungus I am assuming this means the green has problems inside the chamber.

I intend to take the tube out, remove the glycol fill the tube up with ammonia so I dont have to shake it, empty it all check if there is anymore fungus then I am going to take the c element and wait for it to all dry. Next i will get some black radiator paint and paint all the exposed aluminium, wait for it to dry, replace the glycol reinstall tube and hope thats that.

Is there anything i am missing guys? I went throught the fungus removal and this seems to be the jist of it.

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

Hello

I have not heard of using ammonia for this; CLR perhaps but not on plastic. What kind of tube?

.

Tom.W · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6635

I was also wondering why ammonia ?

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

I didnt think anything when I read ammonia. I have used it for years, actually long before CLR even came out. Couldn't tell you where I got it from but its been since the late 80's early 90's.

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

This is from Curts site on Fungus removal,

"Take the tube out, unscrew both fill screws on top, keep it upside down, put a plastic syringe (no needle!), which will fit on one of the screw holes nicely, and simply pump the glycol out through the other hole, not removing the syringe, just pump. In like 30 seconds your tube is empty.

Collect it using a coffee filter and a glass. Then take some ammonia (or CLR), fill the tube for 30% with it, and shake it baby! The inside of the tube is now clean. Pump out the cleaner, fill the tube with some water a couple of times so the cleaner is gone, and then refill it with your glycol. A bit of water in the glycol is no problem at all. So don't worry about it.

Finished! No need for removing and cutting glass and remount the glass etc. A tube is removed, cleaned and refitted within 30 minutes...

Note: If the inside materials of the tube are deteriorating, simply flushing won't treat it. But in a lot of cases the 'fungus' is just caused by crystallization of the glycol itself, e.g. if the tubes haven't been used in a while or due to some (bacterial/chemical?) impurities. The crystallization then settles on the glass. In those cases, the simple flushing method will be sufficient. As long as the tube is being used regularly, the glycol is heated up again and again and will convect in the tube, thereby doing what it's supposed to do (cooling the phosphor) and impurities or crystallization will not have the chance to settle."

I am just checking to see if what I am going to do is correct, do you guys think Ammonia is going to be a problem, its a Ampro 4600 green 9 tube LC, LCP.

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

CLR what is this anyway, I read somewhere it was a bathroom cleaner?

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

Not sure we have this in the Uk I think I better stick to the ammonia if thats ok, also the fungus is on the C element should I just wash it of with distilled water or can I use normal hot water?

stefuel · Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:30 am Post subject:

I'm going to save you a ton of time and aggrivation. It's a piece of cake to slide the whole tube assembly out the front. After it's out, leave all the electronics in place. Remove the 10 ( I think) screws from the top that holds the expansion bladder in place. DO NOT BOTHER WITH THE FILL/VENT PLUGS ON THE BOTTOM. You will not be able to use them so don't even try. Remove the bladder and dump the old fluid out. Remove the c-element and wash the LC cavity with mild soap and water then rinse. Do the same with the c-element but be sure to use a very soft wash cloth. Rinse and let dry. Wash all parts prior to re-assembly but be extra carefull not to stretch the O-ring seal or it will be a bugger to get back in place.
Put it back together and fill through the top (bladder opening) when you re-install the bladder, some fluid will be displaced. Use rags to collect any fluid that is forced out while putting the bladder retaining plate back on. DO NOT ALLOW ANY FLUID TO GET ON THE ELECTRONICS. One other thing, make sure you have the correct allen wrench to remove the c-element retaining ring. They will be in there like iron and if you try to cheat using a smaller than required wrench, you will strip the heads.

I'm not going to help you any more until you paint it a different color. That sucks Laughing