CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Ohmess]

I've decided to attack some neck board upgrades, starting with the replacement of the carbon resistors. I have a specific question on one of the resistors: R81. In looking today at the fantastic thread in this forum and at the Jaehong Lee thread on AVS forum, it appears this resistor should be replaced with a 2w ceramic resistor with exactly the same resistance. For some reason, I bought 8.2k ohm resistors instead of 10k ohm resistors. I am wondering if I simply ordered the wrong resistor, or if there has been some evolution in the thinking about how to do this.

My guess is that I simply made a mistake, but I was hoping I could get some feedback from some of the Electrohome Gods.

Cheers,

Chris[/url]

[Nashou66]

Those are in the G2 line, I would stick with the original value other wise you risk the chance of over driving the tubes.

either one of these two, they can 1 watt or 2 watt use the Ohmite brand for all the ceramic resistors

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp;jsessionid=AZS1B5M4KPHFKCXDUY2W3PQ?N=1001644+234458+123513+2636+156731+156883+107307+107308&_requestid=119272

Athanasios

[Ohmess]

I have another question for you. When I pulled up the third of my CLC449s, it looks to me like I may have damaged the board. If I look closely at the eight bright silver connectors that the Interstil EL5166 are supposed to be soldered to, one of them appears to be missing. On my board it is the one closest to the "41" in the R41 designation.

Here's my question: in looking at your post in the Marquee Maintenance/mods thread, your board looks just like mine near the R41 designation, and in addition, your board appears to have silver missing near the R12 designation.

From your thread, it looks like you just forged ahead. Did that neck board turn out ok? Should I just forge ahead?

[Nashou66]

Hi Ohmess, your ok, that pin had No Connection, pin 1,5 and 8 are NC. The solder pads there are not secured very well to the PCB as they have no trace to them, its the trace's that has a layer of lacquer or some varnish over them that hold them in place and for protection. So be very carefull you dont leave the Iron to long on the pads. But an easier way to take of the solder with a desoldering braid was mentioned in my thread by another memebr and it does work great. You add solder across all the pins so it flows between them all and then you heat the whole solder flow and the chip will raise up easier. but dont lift to high or you'll pull the pins up on the other side. once lifted up a bit let the solder harden and move to the other side and do the same lifting that side up. Now both sides are soldered to solder above the pads not directly on the pads and you reheat the
solder and lift again and use the braid to take away some solder so now you can have the pins above the solder, move to the other side and now the chip will pop off. A now use the braid to remove the rest of the solder off the pads, dont let the braid stick to a pad as you might pull it off the PCB this way also. it takes practce to find a good system but looks like you did well so far till the last one !

Athanasios

[Ohmess]

I actually used the technique recommended in that thread and it worked great.

If only I had purchased the proper R81 resistors I would be able to test the upgraded neck boards today.

Damn!!!

Your posts have contributed greatly to my ability to improve my projector. I will raise a glass in your honor tonight.


Cheers,

Chris

[Nashou66]

Aww shucks

Athanasios