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Open hushbox

 
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Per 489



Joined: 09 Jun 2007
Posts: 31
Location: Aaland. Finland

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:41 am    Post subject: Open hushbox

I´m thinking of building an hushbox and don´t want to hassle with external fans and pipes.

Has anyone tried an open hushbox? I´hm wondering if you could trap the sound but not the air?

Put a bigger box around the projector with enough air gap and put a soundtrapping material on inside wall.
Front more or less open and a plate at the back that folds over the box (like a tilted U).
How much space do you need between PJ and wall and how big openings at front and back?

I Have an M 8500 LC.

P.S
I´m going to New Zealand in Dec so if anyone there needs a board or two from Sweden I could probably take them with me. D.S

Per.
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:27 pm    Post subject:

It's a bit of a catch-22. If you leave enough space so that the hushbox can vent without using fans/pipes, the sound is going to get out.

So no, an open hushbox doesn't really work without frying the projector.

Kal

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dbaisey



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 821
Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 4:57 pm    Post subject:

I have seen one made for the NEC XG. Its made out of 1/2" white laminated foam 2" larger then the projector. The top and front are open but gets its support by sliding it on from the back with top/side supports. Had him add a fan tunnel to the rear to vent upwards. Weighs about 8 lbs total and doesnt look that bad.

This was done because he sits just behind the projector and a low ceiling. It does stop most of the sound directed down.
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dropzone7



Joined: 12 Jun 2007
Posts: 1069
Location: Charlotte, NC

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 5:13 pm    Post subject:

dbaisey wrote:
I have seen one made for the NEC XG. Its made out of 1/2" white laminated foam 2" larger then the projector. The top and front are open but gets its support by sliding it on from the back with top/side supports. Had him add a fan tunnel to the rear to vent upwards. Weighs about 8 lbs total and doesnt look that bad.

This was done because he sits just behind the projector and a low ceiling. It does stop most of the sound directed down.


Not trying to hijack but sense you commented Doug, I might build a hushbox for my XG this weekend. Any thoughts on what if any case parts I should leave on the projector? Seems like I read somewhere that the sides should stay on to help direct the exhausted air to the rear.

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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:52 pm    Post subject:

I wonder if anybody's tried using water cooling / peltier junctions to cool CRT PJs. It would seem that some of the stuff used for ludicrous PC cooling should be applicable, although it would be quite different to implement - I'm guessing there aren't just a few heat-generating components that you need to cool off?

What bits in a CRT PJ are the ones that get hot and die, anyway?

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:26 pm    Post subject:

When this has come up in the past, people generally get nervous about running water pipes anywhere near 40kV. Smile Peltier junctions mostly cool flat surfaces, and that could help for STK chips (a popular get-hot-and-die component) & the like.

Mostly, though, you've got some honkin' big heaters in there, and they (CRT tubes) aren't very amenable to water cooling or junction cooling. You just need to pull all the hot air out. Hi tek cooling solutions don't help much with that.
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Open hushbox

Per 489 wrote:


Has anyone tried an open hushbox? I´hm wondering if you could trap the sound but not the air?


If you ceiling is fairly tall, then a Hushbox like Ile's awesome looking one would do just this. See if you can find a pic of his or PM him.

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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:55 pm    Post subject:

If I were to start all over again and build a theater from scratch, I'd build a 100% sealed hush box from foam and optical glass. I'd run a 5 inch supply duct and 4 inch return duct right off my HVAC system to the inside of the box. I'd wire it so that whenever the PJ is on, the A/C fan would switch on. I'd let the house thermostat still decide if A/C is needed. That would provide filtered air to cool the PJ.
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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:21 pm    Post subject:

Curious -- why 5" in & 4" out?
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:43 pm    Post subject:

garyfritz wrote:
Curious -- why 5" in & 4" out?


Ahhhh, the million dollar question. Let's allow that question to fester a bit and see if anyone blurts it out.

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Chip
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Zebu Fellenz



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 2567


Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 2:10 am    Post subject:

stefuel wrote:
garyfritz wrote:
Curious -- why 5" in & 4" out?


Ahhhh, the million dollar question. Let's allow that question to fester a bit and see if anyone blurts it out.


Positive air pressure to keep dust from gathering on the Ampro?
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dbaisey



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 821
Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:34 am    Post subject:

Drop,
The whole case is designed to work together in air flow. Regardless you want a steady consistent temp maintained in the drive cavity. Having flow direction will help but have seen them with and without the sides. Might PM Kenny G I think hes done temp readings with the case removed but sealed in the HB. His is to quiet for me..its spooky quiet.
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dropzone7



Joined: 12 Jun 2007
Posts: 1069
Location: Charlotte, NC

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:00 am    Post subject:

Doug, "spooky quiet" would be great for me. Right now I'm somewhere between restroom hand dryer and Harrier jet. The heat is even worse. It doesn't help that this room is the warmest in the house for some reason and then add the XG heat pump and it can get uncomfortable in a hurry. A few nights ago I measured the ambient temperature in the room from the center seat below the projector at around 80 degrees. The rest of the house is about 73 most days. Even if it doesn't get any quieter, I have got to suck some of that hot air out of the room. I'm sure all that hot air pooling around the projector at the ceiling is not a good thing either.
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dbaisey



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 821
Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:56 am    Post subject:

Chip,
I think you would find a very unstable projector esp when the A/C kicked in on top of the fan, maybe even a cracked tube or three
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mike calcott



Joined: 18 May 2006
Posts: 307
Location: Australia

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:02 am    Post subject:

The expansion with heat and contraction with A/C cooling would be dramatic causing cracked tubes as Doug mentioned
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Per 489



Joined: 09 Jun 2007
Posts: 31
Location: Aaland. Finland

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:45 am    Post subject:

Thanks for the replies.
I do understand that you can´t completely get rid of all sounds this way but by folding the box you could probably get rid of quite a lot.

I remember one time when i wisted a labyrinth made of peatbricks. It was about 2,5 m high and i must say it dampened most of the sound I made and most of the sound coming from the outside. A strange feeling indeed.

I´m going to measure temp and decibel before and after. Any specific places that I should consider when placing the tempprobe? Any "max" temp when I should bite the apple and pull the plug?


Per
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:56 am    Post subject:

dbaisey wrote:
Chip,
I think you would find a very unstable projector esp when the A/C kicked in on top of the fan, maybe even a cracked tube or three


I'm running a 20 degree delta-t at the air handler. By the time it runs 35 or so feet from the air handler it drops to about 10-12 degree's. I wouldn't dump the raw cool air directly into the projector but would (in my case) dump it at the rear as that's where the power supply get's it's cooling air and vents it. If it did indeed prove to be to cool, I could ad a bypass between the supply and return to raise the supply temp.

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A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

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