CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Brooklyn · Joined: 17 Sep 2007 Posts: 494 Location: Morgan Hill, CA

Hi, I am going to replace a set of HV leads soon, and I have some of this:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Grey_Rigid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

Will this work as sealant, or do I need to go buy something else?

Thanks!

jkruger · Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA

I would most definitely Not use that. The pigments in some gasket sealers are electrically conductive. Get the right stuff. You can buy silicone lubricant for automotive ignition systems at any auto parts store, or go to:
http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search # 1418k29

the_avguy · Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Edmonton, Alberta

Am I reading this wrong?

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

Almost all of the commonly available "silicone sealants" utilize a cure chemistry that releases acetic acid vapor during the curing cycle that is initiated by exposure to moisture in the air. This is why these materials smell like vinegar as they cure. These materials are totally unsuitable for any electronic use (potting, sealing conductors or enclosures, etc) and
should not be used in contact with any electrical circuitry.

General Electric makes a special line of Electronic Grade RTV silicones (RTV160, RTV162, RTV167) that utilize a cure chemistry that releases alcohol vapor during curing. These materials can be used for potting and sealing
bare conductors and other electronic uses, but are quite a bit more expensive than the household sealant type RVT silicones.

I ordered a tube from a local electronics parts house. I also ordered dielectric grease at the same time. My plan was to wait for the HV silicone to harden and add a bead of the dielectric around the cup. More research proved that plan to be redundant (and messy) so I didn't use it.

Greg

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

Xeus · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 111 Location: N.E. Wisconsin

Take a look at this:

http://www.curtpalme.com/HV_Lead_Removal.shtm

Matt

jkruger · Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA

You are reading the wrong description. Look at the description above the item listing for the correct one. Geez.

the_avguy · Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Edmonton, Alberta

Ile · Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:19 pm Post subject:

http://www.hylomar.us/pdfs/MSDS/TDS%20Hylomar%20102.pdf

Is good for HV leads, tube housings and front glasses (black).

Ray Cendroski · Joined: 22 Apr 2006 Posts: 68 Location: Concord, Ohio

I've used GE Silicon II a couple of times for anode leads with no problems. It's non-acetic (unlike GE Silicon I), cheap, and readily available at any hardware store.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=47970-72643-GE5000&lpage=none

Ray

Elaine Benes · Joined: 25 Apr 2006 Posts: 1416

the_avguy · Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Edmonton, Alberta

the_avguy · Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Edmonton, Alberta

Anybody?
I would like to be sure before I seal these up and blow something up.
thanks

Elaine Benes · Joined: 25 Apr 2006 Posts: 1416

I have used the clear GE Silicon II Windows and Doors version from Canadian Tire on several HV leads without any issues whatsoever. I buy the easily resealable, small size they have with the clear threaded top, it works great.
I can't comment AT ALL about the automotive product you've linked to, but why make it complicated when it doesn't have to be ? Just get the stuff from Crappy Tire and be done with it...

Chuck27 · Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:36 pm Post subject:

Despite the naysayers, I've used Permatex Gasket Maker with some success.....the ultra-high temp stuff that is red in colour and readily available in the auto department at Canadian Tire, and presumably elsewhere.

the_avguy · Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Edmonton, Alberta

Trust me the last thing I want to do is make this "more" complicated.
The red stuff "seems" to be the stuff that is used in the howto:
http://www.curtpalme.com/HV_Lead_Removal.shtm
Is the

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:24 pm Post subject:

Standard RTV silicone is what I used. On a slight side note, I talked with Charlie of VDC yesterday about sealing tubes, as I have had leaks (as have others).

He confirmed what I figured out the hard way: If a tube starts leaking, it's almost impossible to patch a leak, as there's a film that forms on surfaces, and new silicone won't adhere to it... or old silicone.

Bottom line is, I let HV leads cure overnight, (or at least 12 hours!), and let tubes set in housings cure for a week. VDC takes their curing tubes and puts them outside when it's sunny out, to assist in rapid curing.

Tubes left to cure 2-3 days WILL leak. Trust me, I found that out. I'm now going to start cleaning the tube glass and inside of the hardware with alcohol to make sure the surface is clean.

Elaine Benes · Joined: 25 Apr 2006 Posts: 1416