CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[MikeEby]

Drop,
I think those were all defined by the previous owner. I must use my projector differently than most. I just let the projector decide what it’s going to do with the input it’s fed. I don't bother naming them or anything. I just save them, mine did get full once so I deleted all above 50 and started again. On mine all the “Factory Lines” are below 50. I have only used an HTPC except for a brief time with a Toshiba HD-A1 so my experience is probably different than most. Have you deleted all lines like Elaine and Jerry said?

Mike

[dropzone7]

[larryk]

I would like to ask you a couple of questions about your problem With 9 pages to read through I am not sure they have been answered but I just don't have time to read them all. Do you know whether this PJ worked when it was used last before you got it?
If this PJ were to be fixed are you intending on using it for an extended period of time as your primary theater projector? Do you think there is a possibility that something relating to moving the PJ to your location could have contributed to the problem? Would you feel comfortable taking the PJ apart (All electrical connections)and putting it back together again although tubes would stay in and astig mags would stay put.

[macgyver655]

[dropzone7]

[larryk]

Ok, first I wnat to inform you of my relative inexperience with CRT projectors. I too own a 1100 and an 852 as well as a PG9extra. I don't pretend to know anything about electronics within the boards and I too am depend on the knowledge and generosity of the amazing people on this forum. I have however found that with my PG, some issues can be fixed or at least improved upon using a product called Stabilant 22. The first PJ I bought was the PG, but upon setting it up there were real problems with both focus stability and convergence. The convergence would work one day and snap out of line the next and not be fixable until it decided to want to be. The red tube would sometimes not light up, and although I didn't have the same problem as you have, I believe it would be worth a try. Even if by cleaning a treating with Stabilant 22 does not fix your problem you would be bringing your PJ to a new or better than new state in terms of reliability in this area. After taking apart the PG and cleaning all and every connector, then treating it with Stabilant the PJ has been working solidly and reliably ever since. No convergence drift, no focusing problems, no intermittent red tube outage. This was not due to merely reseating the boards as I did take the PJ into a certified NEC repair shop, they reseated everything, talked to NEC and concluded that I needed a Red tube and C board. 200.00 later

What I did was this,
Put the PJ on a table, pull every connector, clean them with contact cleaner and a brush, dry it off with clean dry air, treat it with Stabilant22, I used a number of Qtip like items that I bought from the electronics store and a small syringe, then reseat it twice.
That's every connector, edge card, wire, ground wire, ground plate, (Look to see what steel plates have ground wires connected and then loosen the screws that connect it to the chassis, clean and treat it then retighten it.)
Don't miss anything not even the power supply.
Caution!! do not treat with Stabilant anything that is high voltage more than 220 volt, although you can still reseat and clean.
I did this in stages so I didn't get myself in trouble. I pulled what I could keep track of after taking closeup pics and marking what wasn't clearly marked.
If there is any connector that you cannot get apart then treat it using a small syringe with Stabilant in it. That will also work.

What is Stabilant22?
It is an electrical connection enhancer. It is not a cleaner. It is used by the military on critical systems that must work all the time under dificult conditions. It lasts as long as 15 years and you can submerse a computer in it while it is running and it will only increase bench marks

It costs about 40.00 for a 15ml bottle and you can do your two XG's and have enough left for one or two more.
If this fixes your problem great, if it doesn't then you know your PJ will be ready for problem free use for years to come (after replacing the boards needed) at least in the electrical connection department.

Hope this helps,
Larry

[jarseneau]

Larry, very interesting about the Stabilant22. For the contact cleaner pre-treat, I'm assuming cleaner from Radio Shack would be sufficient?

[jarseneau]

Drop, for the location of factory vs. user SIG ENTRY question, I can confidently say that my 1352 puts the user ones starting at 1 and the FACTORY ones start at 50. Your 852 must work the same. I really expect your problem to evaporate by deleting ALL entries 1-49 and let the projector first recognize you signals as NEW, then you want to save them as a NEW ENTRY and converge from there.

My explanation for you being able to run while on the floor is either you were feeding it the same DVD composite or S-video at the time and we know that works in all setups.

[dropzone7]

[dropzone7]

Larry, thanks for the explanation about Stabilant. If I get this thing recognizing signals and stable again then it sounds very worthwhile to do that maintenance.

[larryk]

For the contact cleaner I used electrosolve zero residue contact cleaner by MG Chemicals and a bristle brush to scrup any exposed pins then canned air to dry.
Dropzone 7, I know it's a long shot but doing this proceedure may just help to fix the PJ. After exhausting all programing possibilities I would start with the workover and then test it before you spend alot of money on new parts. If you need the parts, the workover is not waisted in any case.

[dropzone7]

Been messaging back and forth with Doug. Here is part of my most recent attempt:

I turned on the 1080i source and then cranked up the projector with only the RGB input connected, not my S-video I have been testing with. It flashed as usual but I kept hitting the INFO button and it would flash a somewhat visible menu. I tried to take a picture of it but it would not stay on screen long enough. No picture in the background because the HD DVD player was on but just sitting on the title menu not playing. The menu said that the source was component Y Pb Rb or whatever those letters are, it was component but not exactly sure of the letters. The input was listed as RGB and the frequency looked like 15.70 and 59.17 as best I could tell. Sync control said G-Sync. I quickly went into the adjust menu and tried to change the Sync control to AUTO but it made no difference. I guess G-Sync is probably correct for what it thinks is a component signal. Anyway, as soon as I hit play on the HD DVD player the projector lost sync of that jumbled signal and started clicking back and forth pretty quickly. It eventually synced onto the usual scrambled 1080i source picture as seen in my previous photos with menus that cannot be read. Gave up again.

[dropzone7]

I finally found a BNC to RCA adapter and now have my old DVD player connected via composite video to the projector. Below are pictures of the info screens for the signal line it finally synced to. I did not create this entry, it was already in the projector and is the first entry I have found that would let me store to it right away. I did phase first and stored. I then moved this entry to line #1 and stored that. I also saved this entry to the default data area #1. It's been running for about an hour now and I'm afraid to try anything else for fear I never get it back to this again. Looks like hell but it's a step up from what I have been getting which is nothing.

[Mark_A_W]

Well, that's working fine. Shaun of the Dead is a great film (Hot Fuzz not so much, but not bad).


Is your 1080i source component? Or is it RGBHV?

[MikeEby]

[dropzone7]

[dropzone7]

[MikeEby]

[dropzone7]

The Onkyo HDMI receivers are known to be a little lacking in the output voltage required to drive HDMI sources so the HD Fury would not work without introducing the switch which is only for the AC power boost. The receiver does the switching. I had to have a transcoder so that's unavoidable. I want to get the Moome XG HDMI card eventually if I can get the projector working again. That would eliminate the HD Fury, RTC2200, the switch and a big ass RGBHV cable. I could run everything straight out of the receiver. Worst case is that I would have to keep the switch for power boost.

[MikeEby]

Ahh, makes sense, just for fun have you tried HD-DVD > HDFury > RGBHV > XG852 ? I know you won't have the gamma boost but it would be interesting to see what happens.


Mike