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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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These are the couches. I was going to put 2 shakers each mounted on the wood on the inside of that box (see red dot). One on one side and one on the other. Will that work OK?
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Clarence
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3827
Location: Smith Mtn Lake, VA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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| whats6x7 wrote: | | These are the couches. I was going to put 2 shakers each mounted on the wood on the inside of that box (see red dot). One on one side and one on the other. Will that work OK? |
Yes, connected to any part of the wooden frame is fine.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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Cool. Thanks. You think 2 per couch is enough?
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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I doubt this would work for your setup, but just in case it gives you any ideas: I got 4 Auro Pros for my couch. I mounted 2 on the frame, and mounted 2 on a 5' board. I put the board under the seat cushions. (Actually wrapped inside the hide-a-bed mattress.) That way the frame shakes your back &etc, and the board shakes your butt.
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Clarence
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Smith Mtn Lake, VA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, 2 per couch should be plenty. I think the effect is best when it's subtle. Ideally, you want the tactile vibration to blend in with the LFE. You don't want a big buzzing vibration that makes your guest ask why the couch is buzzing.
Sounds like Gary's hide-a-bed is much heavier than the couch you pictured, plus his folded matress probably provides more isolation than your more typical spring supports under the seat cushions.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Clarence wrote: | | You don't want a big buzzing vibration that makes your guest ask why the couch is buzzing. |
I have a suspended ceiling and if I turn the sub up loud enough to feel, the grid in the ceiling vibrates and sounds horrible. I'm just trying to enhance the sub a little. Yes, I know, this is a horrible theatre room. My wife insists on bright walls and (worst of all) I'm using a Hitachi LCD projector. Contrast ratio sucks but on the plus side its as bright as the sun.
What do you think of that package from ebay I linked to? The link you gave me shows those bass shakers out of stock right now.
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JustGreg
Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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| rabies_70 wrote: | | The first incarnation of my theater had the Shakers mounted to the frame of my couch. Loved them but hated the couch. Had two of the 50w and 4 25 w in various places. Then I built an infinite baffle subwoofer and added theater seating. The IB is way more intense than the shakers. But during really good explosions and such, it also makes the living room rattle in my neighbors house 2 doors down, a good hundred feet away. And you can feel the concussion in your chest as it works its beautiful bass magic....but I digress. Since I added the second row of seats I am going to reinstall the shakers. I like em. My 2cents. |
Off topic a smidge but researching IB woofs led me to this.
http://www.rotarywoofer.com/
Not new technology going by the review dates but click on the Pricing button once and you'll see why there aren't more of them around. 
I have the same model kickers as Clarence. I've yet to mount them due to the ole 'one foot in front of the other thing', eg, I JUST got carpet squares down in the HT and need to build a rear riser for them now. That may now have to wait until I look into building an IB woofer.... my 15" 150w unported MTX sub is horrible.
Greg
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:13 pm Post subject: |
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Geezus Greg, that thing looks like a turbo attached to a 5 hp electric motor with a prop on it.
Ohh that's so cool 
Though naming it 'thigpen' just makes me thing of the dust cloud that's going to be around it. 
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Clarence
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Smith Mtn Lake, VA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 12:33 am Post subject: |
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How big would bass drum(s) have to be to mechanically replicate 5Hz-20Hz?
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Clarence
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Smith Mtn Lake, VA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 12:44 am Post subject: |
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http://www.vdrums.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-16462.html
| Quote: | | Usually around 50-100Hz, it depends on how it's tuned. A loose 24" kick can go as low as 30Hz. |
but in recordings, it seems they're usually mixed up to 4KHz to compensate for typical speakers which can't replicate the true freq...
| Quote: | | a good way to get an A-kick to punch through inherent "muddiness" when recording is to add a bit of 4KHz (I know, that's high). Even though the majority of acoustic energy is located between 30Hz and 100Hz there is some energy across the rest of the spectrum and that is what gives a kick it's attack portion of the sonic envelope. By adding a smidge of 4K you can get a kick to punch/pulse through a mix but more importantly, when listening to a mix on "got-so-great" monitors the kick is recognizable. |
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perisoft
Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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Location: Ithaca, NY
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:06 am Post subject: |
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In test setup, I had three 12" subs right smack behind my four-person couch. A bass shaker was... irrelevant. Some fill came from the two mains up front - 12" vegas that go down to 17hz themselves, so I route the LFE over there too.
My wife's in NYC in the winter, though, so when she came back she looked and said she didn't want the couch so far into the room. I'd rather not have it there either, but if you want to hide the subs...
So she said: Well, why not put the couch ON the subs?
Ahh... now I know why I married her. Riser and bass shaker in one! 
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AnalogRocks
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:09 am Post subject: |
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Well we all know what's shakin' at your house.
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perisoft
Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:34 am Post subject: |
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Now I just have to figure out how to build the weirdest riser in history...
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AnalogRocks
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:42 am Post subject: |
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Infinite baffle with hold in the floor?
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perisoft
Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:48 am Post subject: |
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| AnalogRocks wrote: | | Infinite baffle with hold in the floor? |
You think I've got some kind of sea-going vessel as my home theater? 
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AnalogRocks
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:50 am Post subject: |
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Hey I'm typing fast and furious but hey why not? Get a nice Gov Surplus sub and use it as an enclosure. Just replace the sub's hatch with a uhhh Sub. lol
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 1:45 am Post subject: |
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Well, my wife was unimpressed. Further more, she doesn't like the wires coming out of the couch. Now I have a 240Watt amp, a 70 Watt amp, 8 Bass Shakers, and an 8" down-firing sub cabinet. My office is gonna rock!
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perisoft
Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:56 am Post subject: |
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Eight bass shakers? Jesus.
Right now my plan is to have the couch on a platform - but really only the front half is on the platform; the rear half is sitting on three 12" and one 10" subwoofer. With that setup pushed up against the rear of the couch, I found that bass shakers should be redundant... I'm guessing this will remain true sitting *on* the subs!
I've got kind of a hodgepodge driving this lot. The small one is the sub unit minus amp from a Logitech Z5500 system that died. That one's driven by a ~100 watt Harman Kardon 330c (at the moment; probably I'll put the HK on the center channel where it's not wasted). Then there's a Yamaha receiver at 100 watts/channel - it's hooked to a four-way speaker splitter. The splitter splits one bit of that off to a 300 watt DBX sub amp, which siphons the signal off the outputs from an amp before it hits the speakers. It has a passthrough but it's highpassed which means it doesn't do much to send that bit to another sub... The DBX sends right and left outputs to two Pioneer 4ohm subs at 150 watts/channel. One is in a Cerwin Vega enclosure whose driver died; the other is in an old and busted Acoustic Research speaker cabinet that's been ported using a one-liter mountain dew bottle segment as the waveguide.
The other half of the split signal is both sides (right and left channel, which are set to mono after entering the Yamaha receiver as left only) going to a dual-voice coil Cerwin Vega sub.
It works better than you might think.
Then I have the sub signal mirrored to the Technics amp which runs the front two speakers; those are 12" Cerwin Vega VS-120s which go down lower than the Pioneer sub drivers anyway! The funny thing is that right now the test-theater is all ripped apart while I do the final build, so I hauled *one* of the cerwin vega fronts upstairs to use as a sub with my toshiba CRT RPTV, and running at 25% that one speaker was rattling flatware in the kitchen.
Ahhhhhh... 
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AnalogRocks
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:38 am Post subject: |
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Perisoft, are you related to that lady from the other forum? You know the one with the rubber walls. That is they need to be rubber for the amount of bass she's trying to put through there. A distant cousin perhaps?
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perisoft
Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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| AnalogRocks wrote: | | Perisoft, are you related to that lady from the other forum? You know the one with the rubber walls. That is they need to be rubber for the amount of bass she's trying to put through there. A distant cousin perhaps? |
Hah, I don't think there's any basis for comparison there. I'm using larger quantities of lower powered, less capable stuff to achieve the output from smaller quantities of more capable stuff, that's all. My end goal is to match the audio in the best theater I've been to, and in terms of butt-knocking feel I think I'm about there. I don't know that I'd add another sub at this point, but I'd upgrade if possible or, better, get better amps to run the ones I have.
I'm holding out for per-channel EQ for AC3Filter so I can tighten stuff up, but even now I can do some tweaking to the frequency spectrum by changing output levels and roll-offs for each sub using the receivers I drive them with!
My idea is that if I don't have wonderful speakers, and I don't have wonderful amps, I'd rather have enough raw power to be totally uncomfortable and be able to run all of it way below the levels where distortion would occur if I was using it all to 'rated' capacity. Like I said, I really can't do that perfectly until I can do EQ per-channel. But with different amps for front/rear/center I can at least use a spectrum analyzer to get things reasonably close, which wouldn't be possible just throwing optical to a DTS receiver.
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