CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[kal]

[kal]

[ArchmasterDragon]

Thanks Kal for clearing that up for me, but for some odd reason I can run it only at 1280x800, if the resolution goes up the ECP can't lock on it, the screen starts to run and flick. I tried several refresh rates, but no go. I don't complain the image, because it's still bigger than my TV or PC Monitor.

Even though my experiences hasn't been 100% good, but I still like the CRT more and I won't try to change it to digital or bigger CRT (even if I would the screen size would be small and even the digital is smaller and compact, but there is something which attracts me)

I'm still working hard trying to get that focus. It's just too many adjustments I have to make and eats my patience, so I stop and try again tomorrow or later. Even it's hard it doesn't mean I wouldn't like my CRT. I like to play games with big screen (makes my new sound card and the dolby surround more useful than looking movies with 24" PC monitor.

Thanks everyone, you are great help

[ArchmasterDragon]

Hi everyone

I'm starting to remove the fungus from all 3 tubes (I'm finally positive it's about the fungus that prevents the image to be sharp) and I'm also replacing 2-pol levers which broke when I adjusted the sharpness (that was before I found about the HV and ground mixed under the focus/bias board). Now the major issue I'm worried about because I adjusted the 2 pol magnets (coarse, I recall that I didn't touch any of the fine adjustment levers)and after the switching the cables under the focus/bias and now that it is actually working properly, I'm afraid that the beam is *censored* up.

I wish to know how hard is it to get that beam focused correctly with the levers and is there a chance that the image is possible permanently screwed with the adjustments. I know that in TV you never touch those or it's permanently screwed (this is what I remember being taught about CRT TV's).

Thanks to everyone in advance.

So I need help from you guys, try to bear my questions

[ArchmasterDragon]

The fungus removal was a success. The image is much sharper, but the only problem in the image it's still not as good as I hope and the cross pattern is still too soft. The reason I noticed was the tube to lense ratio. I need to adjust all the 3 tubes so that they face the lense properly, also I have thought that it might be also because of the ES focus.

I couldn't replace the 2 rear astigmatism rings, because the small stoppers would break if I would try to push them down.

I already had to watch a movie even the focus wasn't 100% accurate, but the result was better than before the fungus removal.

Thanks everyone, especially Curt for helping me out. One major question for all: Does anyone know a trick how to make the tube to lense adjustment easier, because if I'm correct the tube has to face the lense as directly and even as possible.

[wadde]

[Tim in Phoenix]

[ArchmasterDragon]

Well I like this as a cheap man projector. My next goal would be Runco DTV 1200 whenever I have enough money for that and a place to use it too. I like the picture as it is, even it is still soft, but much better than before doing the fungus remove.

I think I would need to install new astigmatism rings at the back of the blue tube, but I can't so I have to accept the picture as it is now. small fine tuning would be good.

Well thanks everyone for helping me out. I think I might ask and do small things with ECP 3100, but I will change it into Runco DTV 1200 when I can and have place for it.

[wadde]

I must say its intresting to read about someone laying some love and work on an old machine.
They do deserve to live on

[SGIforever]

[dvh99]

http://se.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=1000291+371034+294745+282862&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=sv_SE&catalogId=&prevNValues=1000291&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D1000291%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedparametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Dsv_SE%26catalogId%3D%26prevNValues%3D1000291


here you go

[SGIforever]

Great. Thanks

I'll be ordering some tomorrow. Hopefully I will get it before the weekend.

[SGIforever]

Resistors 22Mohm+33Mohm from Farnell arrived and the change went well. Much better focus now
Thanks again.

Now there are other problems, like getting the red and blue testgrid concident with the green for the much shorter throwing distance I'm going to use. It's way of.
Well I can probably find that information somewhere on this site.

[dvh99]

i dont understand?
you can swing the red and blue to concide (is that the right word?) in the middle on green dont you?

[rs454]

I think you have the sd187 tubes they are not known for being very sharp if you were to put 07ms tubes in it it would be a lot sharper they are found in 3500s and 4500s and are a direct swap. It might be worth grabbing the 4500 with a bad power supply if the tubes are in good shape . I have ECPs with both and there is no comparison. Rich

[SGIforever]

I will check what kind of tubes I have, but I do have that extra 10MOhm which Is supposed to be a modification for the 07MS tubes.

I tried to swing the tubes inwards by turning the screws as you way, but the back of the tubes came very close to the PCBs so I didn't dare to continue.

Apart from putting it closer to the screen, I'm also trying to floormount it. It was previously celingmounted so I guess I have a lot of adjusting to do.

dvh99, you are right by the way. I misspelled 'coincide'. I wrote 'concide', which means something completely different.

[dvh99]

i wasnt sure either about the funny word, but you will need some throw distance of course because of the maximum swing of red and blue.

[ArchmasterDragon]

Sorry that I haven't been online much, because I would have told that Farnell is the one to ask about the resistors and I think I ordered the Dallas chip from there too.

Anyway I now have problems with the tubes, to be precise: Blue and Red tubes are pain for me. I will attach three (3) images of the tubes and there are some kind of interference or there is better word that I don't know, lines is the best that I can think of.

I wish to know that is it problem of certain board, connection or what. I changed the place of a jumper to correct the split at the image found on AVR Forum. I'm not sure did I damage something or is the mod ruined/damaged something.
If there is a way to fix that it would be great knowledge, although I lack of proper equipment like oscilloscope, but I think I might get one someday.

Also a bit off topic, at the projector specification list says that the ECP 3100 is capable of 1280x1024P image with refreshing rate of 45-120 Hz, now that would mean it would be at least in theory capable of producing 3D image, but the bandwidth is no go when we start to calculate the bandwidth needed to show that (nvidia graphic card is able to show 3D games and movies when installing drives and such). The only thing that I don't understand is why the Nvidia toolbar shows max refreshing rate at 80Hz, even though it should be higher, maybe it's the lack of correct input card at the back, because I'm using component input (RGBHV).

[Nashou66]

If there are removable socketed chips on the control board i would clean the contacts
of the chips and sockets. Also if there are any daughter boards on any other board
clean those connectors as well.

I am not an ECP owner but the Marquee sometimes shows the same issues if those chips are not clean.
It looks like the scanning is not being done as cleanly as it should.

Athanasios

[ArchmasterDragon]

Hello everyone!

I haven't been online much, because I had work in another town for 5 months, but I'm back again and more questions coming up.
First of all I haven't yet cleaned the IC chip contact points, but that's going to change soon though and because I think I messed up with the astigmatism rings, before I noticed the swap of the focus leads at the board, so that was also the time when the blue tube rings snapped and I wasn't really happy about that to put that kindly.

Another thing is that I think a CRT fly has bitten me, I bought 2 Sony VPH-1031QM and I feel like I could buy some more CRT's, I think I would need some kind of psychiatrist help for me soon enough.

When I checked the cross pattern it is SHARP compared to the ECP I got (Though I doubt ECP tubes has so many hours behind) So that makes me think that I need to re-adjust the astigmatism rings and replace the blue tube rings, but when I tried I couldn't remove them and I just left those alone, but now I have a crusade for replacing those rings and getting slightly sharper image ( I even can't read what the desktop quicklink text says, it's just so fussy image)

I'm not expecting miracles from the ECP image, but I have a feeling that the overall quality sucks, because of the adjustments I made. The cross pattern that I have adjusted many times (I have accidentally slightly nudged, because my room is small enough and installing the ECP to the ceiling is out of the question) I have noticed that when I adjust the sharpness with the potentiometer, the top left of the horizontal blue line tends to "jump" or make a tight curve upwards if the potentiometer is turned completely, I'm not sure why, but I never need to turn it all the way.

So this might have gone so confusing, so let me sum it up:
1: How can I change the astigmatism rings to the blue tube of the ECP
2: Is there a dot pattern in the ECP that I could focus the beam correctly

Thank you everyone and if I'm not visiting often here I wish everyone good holidays