CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

oliverg,

When I pulled the board out the main switch was off, so it was not in standby more. I did not diconnect the power cord, but the projector was switched to OFF. Isn't the same thing?

The error I am getting now with the old chip is 30 in green.
No errors with the new chip - 88 red, 88 orange, nothing

You still think it maybe IC234 chip?

oliverg · Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 7:08 pm Post subject:

If the power switch on the wall was off then you should be OK.

It seems alot of people pull boards out when the machine is on standby - a sure way to damage them.

Reminds me of a hard drive array I was working on once - a great big sign said "Hot swappable - extended ground pins" and then under that "Please turn off power before attempting hot swap"

It could be any of the problems listed above in John's post too - have you done the init yet? try that next - if that doesn't work you could send it off to Curt and let him diagnose it... unless you want to risk buying another IC234 - not sure how much they are. From what I can see, IC234 contains the frame data - when you do an init, the data has to come from somewhere - either the COM port or the program ROM (IC234) - the later is pure speculation on my part. I'm guessing here - please be careful!

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

oliverg,

Do you know where I can get the IC234?

I only tried to change the IC333 and reloaded the OS.

Roman

oliverg · Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 7:17 pm Post subject:

Do the init first, before you do anything else

DonKellogg · Joined: 31 May 2006 Posts: 180 Location: Kalamazoo, Mi

Just replied to your email on this. It's been a long time since I had to work on one of these. I'll see if I can dig up my notes and the software. But I believe the Dallas chip is part of the problem.

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

Thanks Don,

I do have the software.

Sent you a reply...

Roman

Frank D · Joined: 20 Jun 2006 Posts: 73

Hi Roman (or anyone else),

Need help connecting from laptop to my G90.

I noticed that you successfully connected your computer to your G90. I tried connecting from my laptop to my G90 and it could not connect. I used an RS 232 cable. I cut it and connected the wires as per the Sony Help file suggestion.

1. I did not use a null modem. Could this caused the lack of connection? Must it be a null modem? What is the difference between a null modem and a non-null modem (ie. regular RS 232) cable?

2. The existing error code is showing 11 in green. When I tried to upload in emergancy mode it quickly flashed 81 and then went back to 11. Program said it tried to connect 3 times but was not successful. Note that I also tried connecting in non-emergancy mode with no luck either.

3. I did put the device index to 00 (previously had it at 01 so I could use my remote). Is this correct?

When you connected sucessfully did the program show what the connected device was or was that area blank?

Thanks for you help.

Frank

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

Frank,

I took my serial cable and rewired it according this diagram:

NOTE: the RS-232 Cross cable is NOT A REGULAR NULL MODEM CABLE. IT IS A 9 PIN OUT AS FOLLWS:
PIN (FEMALE) PIN (MALE)
1 --------------------- 1
2 --------------------- 3
3 --------------------- 2
4 --------------------- 6
5 --------------------- 5
6 --------------------- 4
7 --------------------- 8
8 --------------------- 7
9 --------------------- 9

When I tried EMERGENCY MODE it timed out with the Error, but when I did in a regualar non EMERGENCY mode, it recognized the projector, and I was able to succefully upload the OS.

Make sure that yuo use an older computer with the SERIAL port. The USB->Serial adapter will not work (I tried it).

Frank D · Joined: 20 Jun 2006 Posts: 73

Did you use an NULL MODEM cable or just a regular RS 232 DB9 cable?

How did you know that it recognized the projector? How could you tell?

I tried in on an old 95 windows laptop that has a serial port in non-emergacy mode with no luck.

What did you set your baud rate too?

What is the best way to see and test which com the serial port is on (ie. 1 vs 2, or 3 or 4)?

Thanks
Frank

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

I believe the Serial Null Modem cable is regular serial DB9 cable, and you need to rewire it according to the table above to make it RS232 CROSS cable.

When it connects to the deives it shows G90 the application window, and then you are able to choose the firmware, and start an upload.

I do not know which port your serial is, but you can check in system/devices under windows. You can also try different ports to see if it finds the PJ. The baud rate was set to 38400.

Roman

Frank D · Joined: 20 Jun 2006 Posts: 73

Did it connect automatically (showing the G90 in the Connected device window right away on the left side of the program screen) or did you have to hit the "find device" button (located at the right side of the program)?

Which windows is your computer using?

Can you also confirm what your serial port setting in Window Device Manager are? This is what my Communication Port (Com2) Properties - Port settings are showing (Using Windows 95 on this laptop):

Bits per second: 9600
Data bits:8
Parity: None
Stop bits: 1
Flow control: None

Do those setting match yours? Do I need to change any of these or does it not matter?

Thanks
Frank

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

I believe I did have to hit "find the device".

I use Windows XP.

Yes the setting I have similar, but I do believe I used bits per second 38400.

Are you sure you rewired your serial cable correctly?

oliverg · Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 5:03 am Post subject:

Yes 38.4 8N1 is the setting to use.

A normal null modem cable has 2 and 3 reversed but this one looks it has DTR to DSR, DSR to DTR. CTS to RTS. I do this from memory and its been at least 10 years since I did any RS232 work so I could be mistaken - these went to the corresponding pin on each side - so DTR (4) is meant to go to DTR (4) etc on a normal null modem cable.

It seems that Sony in their infinite wisdom have tried to make it harder for the average person to do any work on it. (These changes whilst not profound are usually enough to scare away a non technical person)

You could always buy a breakout box (around $10) to make the changes - I advise doing this as it means you can actually see the handshaking happen and it makes it easier to diagnose any faults.

Kind regards

Frank D · Joined: 20 Jun 2006 Posts: 73

oliverg · Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 5:41 am Post subject:

http://www.lashen.com/products/tools/CZ_32-122.asp

Break out box Wink

I've still got 3 of them that I don't use - I'd send you one but shipping costs would be more than the box is worth

Kind regards

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

Well,

A little progress here. I was able to get the projector out of standby mode, and even checked the Serial number - 00000000, and of course all zeros on the timers. The version V1.11 is there.

Now the problem is that after about 4 minutes (if I do not press the MENU) the message about how many minutes left for a warm up is disappearing and the PJ does not react to any of the RC commands except the STANDBY. If I push that button it goes into a standby mode, and the only way to turn the projector back on is to use the main switch and RC ON after that.

The convergence is lost of course, but what bothers me the most - in the middle of the screen there are some weird marks.

I tried Don's method of reseating the G90 with starting the unit in factory mode by turning off switch 1 on the 4 switch box at the outside edge of the YA board (next to S202). But it did not help. I got garbage on the screen and had to reformat the Dallas chip again by pressing S202 for 5 secs.

Any ideas?

What is next?

oliverg · Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:22 am Post subject:

Well, some good news Smile

Which IC333 is in right now?

Unfortunately it sounds as though IC234 is corrupt. From what I've been able to work out, the source for any frame data during an init is the program IC234 chip (I'm not absolutely certain). If this is the case, you'll need to replace it then do another serial update, then re-init everything. (the part number is back about 10 posts)

Faling that I'd say there are further problems with your YA board. (Sorry)

You could go the diagnostic route yourself - check for bad tracks, dry joints - hot/cold etc Whilst you've done really well so far Roman you're really getting to the point where getting professional help is unavoidable. Either Sony (expensive) or Curt (cheaper and friendlier) is the route I would advise (if replacing/reprogramming IC234 doesn't fix it).

Maybe try the emergency update again?

Good luck

PS What weird marks? Can you photograph?

rsh · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 66

New chip is in.

I will make some pictures and post it here maybe tomorrow.

As much as I hate to ship the $1800 board that potentially can be lost, I think I had no choice, do I? Sad

Thanks
Roman

oliverg · Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:35 am Post subject:

Roman, just make sure you get insurance and tracking if you have to send it somewhere.

Packages rarely get lost these days Wink

I'm just hoping it is the YA board and not something else. If anyone else has any ideas?

Cheers

oliverg · Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:35 am Post subject:

Roman, just make sure you get insurance and tracking if you have to send it somewhere.

Packages rarely get lost these days Wink

I'm just hoping it is the YA board and not something else. If anyone else has any ideas?

Cheers