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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:39 pm Post subject: Liquid coupling question |
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It seems everyone has a handle on who makes the worst liquid coupling and I've heard my share of it  but, I've never seen a post where someone claimed X had the best liquid coupling. So wadda ya think, who's is the best and why?
_________________
Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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G70.
You can adjust flapping on the fly, with simple, separate horizontal and vertical knobs.
It's better than the (otherwise identical) G90 because the tubes are clamped into the housings, rather than siliconed, so fitting new bare tubes to the housings is a snap (only a fool buys a whole tube from Sony = $$$).
G70 flapping is so good I seriously considered squeezing them into my XG, someone did so recently in Europe = Awesome, the best 8"er full stop.
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bomrat
Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 117
Location: chicago
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:46 am Post subject: |
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ya, g70... best because of the tube mounting system.
the zenith 900 pro's do the simular thing also. lc, no flapping though and its an es machine.
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:37 am Post subject: |
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This far I have only disassembled 801s(retro), 1209, Marquee and 1292 LC hardwares.
1292 is best of those four. Strong rubber coated steel bellow (I think) and big expansion tank with rubber bellow like in 07MS/MSP tubes but bigger. Two flapping rings, so I think it's easy to adjust. C-element is o-ring sealed like in 1209. Only thing that suck is that tube is siliconed to hardware using too thin seam and is pretty hard to cut off through c element hole.
Didn't liked much of Marquee hardware. Opening those hundred bellow bolts and cutting c element from bellow and removing tube from hardware is too complicated. 
I have one removed 1292 hardware and can give it free if somebody need it.
Red c element not included. 
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 10:36 am Post subject: |
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Ile, the 1292 housing is basically similar to the XG LC one. I just press the XG housings off with a bunch of clamps and a jig made of a few blocks of wood - no cutting at all. Both require you to loosen the fixing screws before you can adjust it...GRRR, which is why the G70/90 is much better.
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Mark_A_W wrote: | | Ile, the 1292 housing is basically similar to the XG LC one. I just press the XG housings off with a bunch of clamps and a jig made of a few blocks of wood - no cutting at all. |
Sony tubes have thin separate front glass glued to bell so I didn't want to take any risk. I have used hydraulic press and peace of wood for Panasonic tubes that have thicker front glass that is one peace with bell. 
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Chuchuf
Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 548
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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G70, no doubt about it. Plus removal of the G70 tubes from the chassis is the easiest of any design out there.
BUT I wonder why the G70 design of clamping the tubes in the housing wasn't carried forward to the G90 which silocones it's tubes into the housings?
Terry
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:01 am Post subject: |
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Bruce mentioned once he thought the G70 tubes where just too expensive to carry the design into the G90.
All those springs and clamps compared to 10c worth of silicone.
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