CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[kal]

Thanks Athanasios!

If you could give me the exact menu options that you have to select to calibrate the sensor and to set it to not require another calibration for the given session that would be great. I'd have enough info to add it to the guide. I've heard enough people recommend the Eye-One over the Spyder2 so I'll recommend both and explain why.

Kal

[kal]

Thanks Athanasios!

If you could give me the exact menu options that you have to select to calibrate the sensor and to set it to not require another calibration for the given session that would be great. I'd have enough info to add it to the guide. I've heard enough people recommend the Eye-One over the Spyder2 so I'll recommend both and explain why.

Kal

[Nashou66]

I was editing as you posted.

Athanasios

[Nashou66]

Kal how do you do screen shot grabs so i can post what the Eye one menues look like so you can add them to the instructions?

Athanasios

[kal]

Alt-PrintScreen is the easiest way. Then paste into any editor.

That being said:

I just placed an order for the the Eye-One Display LT (~$140 USD) sensor. It's supposed to be more accurate than the Spyder2

I'll be updating the guide to include both sensors as there are subtle differences (not much).

The user will be able to choose what they want: Perfection with the Eye-One DisplayLT for about $140 or close to perfection with some inaccuracies with the $60-70 Spyder2.

Those of you that would never consider spending more than $60-70 on greyscale calibration should get the Spyder2 as it'll still be better than nothing. Those that want to get closer to perfection should order the Eye-One DisplayLT as it's the better probe: More accurate, less variances between units, faster at reading, and reads better in darker regions.

You can order the Eye-One DisplayLT here: Order Eye-One Display LT from Amazon.com

Kal

[kal]

Alt-PrintScreen is the easiest way. Then paste into any editor.

That being said:

I just placed an order for the the Eye-One Display LT (~$140 USD) sensor. It's supposed to be more accurate than the Spyder2

I'll be updating the guide to include both sensors as there are subtle differences (not much).

The user will be able to choose what they want: Perfection with the Eye-One DisplayLT for about $140 or close to perfection with some inaccuracies with the $60-70 Spyder2.

Those of you that would never consider spending more than $60-70 on greyscale calibration should get the Spyder2 as it'll still be better than nothing. Those that want to get closer to perfection should order the Eye-One DisplayLT as it's the better probe: More accurate, less variances between units, faster at reading, and reads better in darker regions.

You can order the Eye-One DisplayLT here: Order Eye-One Display LT from Amazon.com

Kal

[Nashou66]

great, when you get it try aiming at the PJ too, close to your screen using the included Diffusor and let me know if your readings are as close as facing the screen.
I understand the philosophy of pointing it at the screen to accurately have the Eye see what our Eyes see but also we are not 4 inches from the screen!

But i really like the eye one and since Kal orderd the Eye-one i have a spyder now for nothing !
j/k I'll still play with it this week and do a short comparison.

Athanasios

[Nashou66]

Kal you should Also add you above post to my thread:

https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=10556.html

This thread has a negative connotation in the tittle towards the Eye one from over a year ago.

Athanasios

[kal]

Will do!

I updated the GREYSCALE CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES guide with the following information which includes an explanation of the differences:



What tools do I need?

You're going to need a few items to set greyscale properly on your projector/TV. The best part is the price. Total cost is probably only between $70-140 USD for most people as you probably already have a computer (otherwise you couldn't be reading this).

A Colorimeter
Two colorimeters are recommended: The ~$140 Eye-One Display LT or the ~$70 Spyder2. Why pay more for the Eye-One? It's a more accurate sensor and readings do not vary between units. With the Spyder2 every unit tends to read just a little bit differently and you have no way of knowing how accurate your specific unit is. The Eye-One also reads faster (your calibration will take less time) and is better in darker regions. Those of you that would never consider spending more than $70 on greyscale calibration should get the Spyder2. Those that want to do this right should order the Eye-One as it's the better probe and only $70 more. Think of it this way: The Spyder2 will likely get you 80-90% of the way to perfection, the Eye-One will gets you all the way to 100%. Both sensors are an enormous improvement over doing nothing about greyscale or trying to do it 'by eye'. The kits bellow are the least expensive ones as we will not be using the included software. Stay away from the newer $150 Spyder3 as the software we are going to use does not support it (yet).




Kal

[kal]

Will do!

I updated the GREYSCALE CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES guide with the following information which includes an explanation of the differences:



What tools do I need?

You're going to need a few items to set greyscale properly on your projector/TV. The best part is the price. Total cost is probably only between $70-140 USD for most people as you probably already have a computer (otherwise you couldn't be reading this).

A Colorimeter
Two colorimeters are recommended: The ~$140 Eye-One Display LT or the ~$70 Spyder2. Why pay more for the Eye-One? It's a more accurate sensor and readings do not vary between units. With the Spyder2 every unit tends to read just a little bit differently and you have no way of knowing how accurate your specific unit is. The Eye-One also reads faster (your calibration will take less time) and is better in darker regions. Those of you that would never consider spending more than $70 on greyscale calibration should get the Spyder2. Those that want to do this right should order the Eye-One as it's the better probe and only $70 more. Think of it this way: The Spyder2 will likely get you 80-90% of the way to perfection, the Eye-One will gets you all the way to 100%. Both sensors are an enormous improvement over doing nothing about greyscale or trying to do it 'by eye'. The kits bellow are the least expensive ones as we will not be using the included software. Stay away from the newer $150 Spyder3 as the software we are going to use does not support it (yet).




Kal

[kal]

Athanasios, I think the only screenshot I need is one of the "Measure -> Sensor -> configure" window when the Eye-one is used. But if you want to give me more that's cool too! Just use Alt-PrintScreen and I'll crop them as needed.

Kal

[kal]

Athanasios, I think the only screenshot I need is one of the "Measure -> Sensor -> configure" window when the Eye-one is used. But if you want to give me more that's cool too! Just use Alt-PrintScreen and I'll crop them as needed.

Kal

[Nashou66]

Hi Kal, Sorry it took so long i had to figure out how to take a screen shot running windows on my mac book. but i found it for any one who runs windows on a mac just go to
Start>run>osk.

here it is



Athanasios

[kal]

Thanks Athanasios! This helps explain a lot! Perfect!

Kal

[kal]

Thanks Athanasios! This helps explain a lot! Perfect!

Kal

[Nashou66]

Anything else master?

Athanasios

[kal]

Yeah, get me a coffee. No wait, it's after midnight. Make that a beer.

Kal

[kal]

Yeah, get me a coffee. No wait, it's after midnight. Make that a beer.

Kal

[Nashou66]

I just had my last one ! sorry !

Athanasios

[Nashou66]

Kal there is some confusion about calling the diffusor and filter both a filter over on the A site, i tried to clear it up but i think in the section where you show the spyder (1.3?) with the filter being removed you make it clear that the spyder uses a colored "filter" and the Eye One has a diffusor. they are two different things. Tom Huffman pointed it out.

Athanasios

[Nashou66]

here are pics you might want to use tilll you get yours to show the diffusor.





Athanasios

[kal]

Thanks for the extra pics!

Ok, seriously nobody seems to recommend the Spyder2. Nobody. It's just too much of a crapshoot. I seemed to have lucked out with my unit and gotten a good one. I can't in good concience recommend that people buy this thing.

I've changed the guide to read:

A Colorimeter
A colorimeter is needed to measure light and colour levels. We recommended the ~$140 Eye-One Display LT.
Note that we can no longer in good conscience recommend the ~$70 Spyder2. In speaking with various calibration experts, we can conclude that: Approximately 1/3 of Spyder2 units are very accurate. The next 1/3 are off but will be a lot better than doing greyscale by eye for most people. The last third are far off enough that the outcome cannot be guaranteed. Unfortunately there's no way to know how your unit rates unless you have a known accurate colorimeter to compare it against. Our unit is one of the accurate ones. The Eye-One on the other hand is consistently accurate and readings do not vary between units. The Eye-One also reads faster (your calibration will take less time) and is better in darker regions. Those of you that would never consider spending more than $70 on greyscale calibration can order the Spyder2 and you'll probably do better than guessing by eye. Those that want perfection should order the Eye-One as it's the cheapest probe recommended by the pro's and only $70 more. The kits below are the least expensive way to buy the probes as we will not be using the included software. Stay away from the newer $150 Spyder3 as the software we are going to use does not support it and we have no idea if it's as unreliable as the Spyder2. Sorry for the confusion! Canadians and other non-US citizens: Amazon.com does not ship electronics outside of the US so we bought our colorimeters from B&H Photo Video. They ship worldwide and there are no duties or other charges if you use UPS Expedited shipping.






Kal

[kal]

Thanks for the extra pics!

Ok, seriously nobody seems to recommend the Spyder2. Nobody. It's just too much of a crapshoot. I seemed to have lucked out with my unit and gotten a good one. I can't in good concience recommend that people buy this thing.

I've changed the guide to read:

A Colorimeter
A colorimeter is needed to measure light and colour levels. We recommended the ~$140 Eye-One Display LT.
Note that we can no longer in good conscience recommend the ~$70 Spyder2. In speaking with various calibration experts, we can conclude that: Approximately 1/3 of Spyder2 units are very accurate. The next 1/3 are off but will be a lot better than doing greyscale by eye for most people. The last third are far off enough that the outcome cannot be guaranteed. Unfortunately there's no way to know how your unit rates unless you have a known accurate colorimeter to compare it against. Our unit is one of the accurate ones. The Eye-One on the other hand is consistently accurate and readings do not vary between units. The Eye-One also reads faster (your calibration will take less time) and is better in darker regions. Those of you that would never consider spending more than $70 on greyscale calibration can order the Spyder2 and you'll probably do better than guessing by eye. Those that want perfection should order the Eye-One as it's the cheapest probe recommended by the pro's and only $70 more. The kits below are the least expensive way to buy the probes as we will not be using the included software. Stay away from the newer $150 Spyder3 as the software we are going to use does not support it and we have no idea if it's as unreliable as the Spyder2. Sorry for the confusion! Canadians and other non-US citizens: Amazon.com does not ship electronics outside of the US so we bought our colorimeters from B&H Photo Video. They ship worldwide and there are no duties or other charges if you use UPS Expedited shipping.






Kal

[ecrabb]

Thanks, guys for all your hard work on this guide...

If only I'd waited another couple of weeks to buy a sensor. Oh well, yet another thing to list on ebay. Sigh.

SC

[Nashou66]

Kal, i tried the spyder II today and it was way off compared to wht i got with the Eye one, red was reading off the charts and the blue hump wasnt the same. I'll post them when i get a chance, I'm glad i'm anal about getting the best things for my money. now i have a crapy spyder , but it was bought to add to the cause of Greyscale calibration for dummies !!!

Athansios

[kal]

[kal]

[Nashou66]

I'll read it over for you when i have more time tonight, at work now, I'm the owner but still feel guilty being on the computer instead of cooking .
Regarding the smoother results, look at my Eye-one different trial thread and you'll see it wasnt that much of a difference. I actually forgot to change the checked box doing that reading. I will go back and do the complete grey scale with it checked and unchecked . Not sure if this makes a difference but i was curious also about that once i realized it and bumped up the green at 50 IRE and did a continuous measure with it unchecked then checked and it came out the same so i didn't bother to re run the greyscale reading. That could change though at the other IRE values.

Athanasios