CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[10216]

I'm setting up a Barco 808s in my basement and I'm having trouble with the focus and sizing. I follow the directions and it looks good in the internal test pattern mode but with I go to the DVD or Computer the size and the colors are different. Is there anyone in the Portland, OR area that would be able to help? This maybe a common problem but this is my first CRT and it been a hit and miss with the set-up.

Thanks,


gilge1@comcast.net

[Curt Palme]

ARe you using the 'genlocked' test pattern while converging? THe manual isn't clear on that, but that's mandatory.

[Curt Palme]

ARe you using the 'genlocked' test pattern while converging? THe manual isn't clear on that, but that's mandatory.

[rod]

Here is a thread that might also help you better understand your issue. It helped me.

https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=6303.html

[Alaric]

Hi There,

If your setting up for the internal test paterns, then you are setting up the test patern memory, not your DVD memory etc. Genlocked paterns work as Curt has mentioned, but you can't beat working with the souce....I use a couple of test paterns off discs for DVD or my HTPC itself for that input.

cya,
Lee

[scoobydoo]

Using the Genlock is the ticket.
I had the same issue when I set up my 808 which was my second crt. I didn't use the genlock on my barco 800 and the picture looked pretty good (though I found out later that was pretty much a fluke). After talking to Curt and he asked if I used the genlock I said "nope" tried it and that solved the issued.

Positive side is that I can run through my setup pretty quick now with
all that practise.

good luck

[rod]

[10216]

I had been using the 'genlocked' test pattern but the picture was still unfocused when I went back to the DVD image. I think I may have found the trouble but I'm not sure yet. The menu said that all the blocks were full. Would that cause the problem I was having...and should I erase all the blocks or just a few?

[Alaric]

Hi There,

If you've just got this PJ then yes, delete all the blocks as they were set-up for a different install - This will help once you've set-up one memory block the PJ will use this as a basis to set-up other blocks...If the nearest setting is an incorrect one (from old install) it will cause you more work.

I'd also go into the service menu and use the set to mid point feature before setting the PJ up again from start if you did not do this. Though this will reset you back to the beginning !

There are two types of focus on these projectors, Manual and Electronic.

Manual - focus the big lenses in a similar way to a camera, the back nut does the centre and the front nut does the edges. Technicaly only needs doing once as its part of the INSTALL set-up and the projector doesn't physicaly move. In actuality you probably do fiddle with it a few times, particularly when doing scheimpflug/corner balencing

Electronic - This is a muti-zone fine tweak and focuses the image onto the lenses, this is a per input/memory block thing, but should only be done after the manual focus is fully set-up

Aditionaly there are things like convergance which if set slightly wrong can look blury and astigmatism which again can improve sharpness of image, but both are not technicaly focus.

A lot of this is just a process of working through the Install setting along with reading the manual at the same time....Its a bit slow and i know people arn't keen but its a damn fine place to start !

Cya,
Lee

[rod]

If I can add to Alaric's emial from the perspective of an 'old rookie"

Alaric's post is a very good summary of the important aspects of basic setup for Barco. With all the installation guides and service manuals it still is not clear on some of the very basic points. At the very least it is not all in one conveinent spot. Also the manuals assume the installer has some basic knowledge.

Deleting all blocks and setting to midpoint is the best way of eliminating issues related to using configurations that were not intended for YOUR installation (ie. input source, frequency and physical dimensions such as your screen size and consequently PJ distances).

Installation menu is good for the gross adjustments of focus, corner focus etc. as Alaric notes. Do not use it for raster shifting as this menu does not utilize your genlocked signal. If you try you will adust in installation menu ,go back to do the config menu and all your rasters will be shifted back. Damn near drove me mental until I learned of this. Raster shifting is done in config menu which does utilize the memory block that you establish. After deleting blocks as soon as the project sees a new source/freq a block is automatically setup.

For electronic/fine focus I'd like to have a better image for this fine tuning as I find my eyes become 'defocused' very easily. The blue is almost impossible for me to go thru. Likely more an issue of patience. Suggestions on patterns or otherwise would be appreciated.

When doing convergence do use a set of good binoculars. It is amazing what you don't see without them and I consider my eyes to be half decent (aside from the aforementioned focus issue ). There is a iterative sequence of setting geometry and then back to convergnece. Every iteration brings a notable difference. The best starting point for me (after physical adjustments) is to go thru the guided menu first. Don't forget the genlocked pattern selection.

As for Astig, again I don't know what reference material to use. I've never used it but for the most part I'm happy with the pic so I don't mess with it.

Another critical thing is to set your G2 levels. There is a thread out there somewhere on how to do so. If you need it just ask and I can post. I had setup my pj with a few iterations thinking G2 was not that important. I couldn't seem to get a crisp pic. I then set G2 and did that make a HUGE difference. A question I had was what test pattern is best to use for G2?

The final thing is set proper contrast and brightness controls using one of the video test discs such as DVE or Avia.

There are color corrections and other stuff but you need special equipment for it and/or need to stick your hand inside the live monster's guts. However, if all the above is done you should have a sweet picture.

I'm contemplating creating a word doc that better details these important points. It would be good to if someone could answer the questions I have in here.