CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

cpenney · Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 50

Hey Guys,

Well i was so happy the other day, picked up a Premier Tab tensioned screen cheap off ebay to replace my Luma, but now i realize that i may not be able to get the screen open!

I dont want to hire an electrician. Is there a way for me to get the screen open once, easily? Ive been looking at the wiring diagram and im kinda lost. Once its open i will just leave it open, so i dont need to have the switch permanently installed.

Thanx,

Colin

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

If you don't want to go through all the trouble of wiring it even temporarily I suppose you could remove the drive motor cover and remove the motor and gear reduction transmission. Then pull it down manually and reinstall the motor to lock it in.
There's no way you're going to pull it down (as you probably already found out) without doing either one of those; unless it was manufactured with an override manual release (like a garage door opener).

Greg

ecrabb · Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:28 pm Post subject:

Yep. Greg's right - either you do it mechanically by removing or releasing the drive mechanism or you do it electrically to roll it down. If it's like the Stewart I played with one time, getting at the mechanics would be a serious project. In that case, the electrical should be easy if you're even half-way comfortable with basic tools and electricity.

Pick up some wire nuts from Lowes if you don't have some laying around from a light-fixture replacement or something. Chop the female end off an old grounded (3-prong) extension cord and strip back a few inches of the covering, and 3/8" or so insulation off each wire. In the Draper Premier diagram I found here:
http://www.draperinc.com/images/Screens/ScreenInstructions/Premier_Inst.pdf

It says:
white is neutral
black is down
red is up
green is ground

So, use your wire nuts and twist the two greens together, the two whites together, and the two blacks together. When you plug the cord in, the screen will go down. If you overshoot, UNPLUG IT, re-connect the black on the extension cord to the red on the screen, plug it back in to retract and try again. Be careful or ask a friend to help if you're not comfortable working around AC.

You don't even really need to connect the ground - I'm just suggesting you use a grounded cord so you don't need a meter to figure out which is hot and which is neutral.

SC

cpenney · Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 50

Thanx guys.....

250GTE · Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 21 Location: Washington State

I also just got a Draper Premier screen off of eBay and had a question on the control I was going to need. The screen I got (92" 16X9, M1300) comes with the SS1-R switch, which sounds like a hard wired wall switch. I was hoping to get an IR control for this screen so that I could lower the screen with my Home Theater Master remote. Ideally I would like to have a "power cord" out of the screen that could be plugged into a wall socket as this will be temporally mounted while I play with the projector before final installation.

Does anyone have a suggestion what I am looking for (IR receiver, power cord)? I have been looking through the Draper Accessory page and haven't really be able to make since of what I need.

cpenney · Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 50

Well thanx ecrabb, got my screen installed and hooked up the ac and it works great. Now i have another question. They sent me the wrong switch. Was supposed to get the ssr1 but i got a VIC12. This switch has the 4 wires that go to the screen, then another 2 wires that are supposed to go to a 12V dc switched outlet. Apparently some projectors have a 12v switched outlet, mine doesnt. Anyone know how i can use this switch?? Would love to have up/down control without having to rewire every time.

Thanx,

Colin

ecrabb · Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 4:33 pm Post subject:

I didn't look up that switch, but as you indicated, the 12v leads usually go to a projector or receiver that have a 12v "trigger" as it's called. The "switch" is probably basically a SPDT relay. When the +12v lead from the trigger device goes high, the switch applies the hot 110v to the "down" lead and the screen goes down. When the trigger goes low (turns off) 110v power is returned to the "up" lead on the screen and the screen goes back up.

If you wanted to use the screen with up/down function, you could either get a 3-way switch and wire it up in a box, or you could go ahead and wire up the switch they gave you and use a 12v wall wart to function as a trigger. In fact, if you powered that wall wart from a switched outlet on a receiver (if you have one), the screen would go down and up when you switched power on and off on your receiver. We can help you wire that up if you want to go that way.

SC

cpenney · Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 50

Where am i getting this wall wart?? How do i know which one to get?

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

ecrabb · Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:53 pm Post subject:

Like greg said... Practically any 12VDC wall wart should work. The relay in the Draper switch probably draws 100 or 200 mA, while even the smallest 12VDC wall wart (AC adapter) would probably be rated for at least 2-3 times that. Depending on how thrifty you are, you might even scrounge around the house or at a Goodwill and find an old cordless phone, answering machine, or some other doodad with a 12VDC adapter you can steal.

$20 at RadioShack is by far the easy option.

SC

cpenney · Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 50

Hmm, im sure i have a few adapters lying around that i dont use anymore..... Thanx again...