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Barco 909 Neckboards in 1209s!
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 6:10 pm    Post subject:

It was 120nH still small differnce.

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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:02 pm    Post subject:

Got some inductors. I testet 470nH and it looked OK. In the lower frequency pattern there was some streaking, but that was barely visible and only in test pictures.

Then i tried 680nH. It seems to be a little bit better at 48p, but at 60p 470n looked brigher i think. Not sure. It is hard to tell. Not even sure about that.

I think it depens on tubes also. The green PT22-22 seems to have different capatitance than my red P19LCP. I noticed a reddish tint in the 1:1 pattern with all colors on, wich makes me think the red is performing better. So i think the bad performance i get on green may be a indication of higher capacitance of the PT22, my pattern never looked as bright as on Redfox machine Sad

It may also be true the 909 neckboards are made for LUG. Maybe the amps are real fast but can't provide enough current to charge a PT22-22 well even at lower frequencies.

Yesterday i got my hand on a 909 chasis Very Happy So im not sure what to do next. I need to retube it, green and blue are unuseable. Red may be useabe, wear is barely visible (only in very bright light) but on a small area. The good thing is: Red is LUG. So i can build a machine with all LUG tubes. So i have some work to be done. Right now i think about reducing noise, this machine is a little to loud in my opinion. Maybe i should build a water cooling, i thought about that several times for my 1209 but it would be plenty of work, nothing that can be done in a few days.

So building a G1 drive has to wait. But i will try that for sure. When the 909 is on the ceiling (wich may take a while depending on what i do about the noise problem) i have a 1209s chasis with 909 neckboards to play with. I think the sanyo transistors may be perfect for making a G1 drive, since they could operate from the same 190V as the hybrid. Maybe a marquee neckboard is also an option. Tought about that to. The 909 amp boards could be used without the socket board to drive a eletrohome VNB. This will give us most of a working ABL and G2 regulator, but maybe would require to add the barco IBL stuff on the cathode. The drawback is the need of a extra PSU.
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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:07 pm    Post subject:

@gjaky: good point, maybe we simply could remove the negative clamping diode.
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:14 pm    Post subject:

If we agree on the clamping diodes that it is not a big risk than I will try that next.

Congratulations on the 909 chasis. One of the reasons I like the 909 neckboards is that they made the powersupply much better according to a technote. The 909 has increadable focussing power.

I got my better 1:1 after using the moome in stead of a fury that I tested as it came with an Eisseman modified chaine. But no measurements to proof it yet Very Happy

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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:16 pm    Post subject:

About the noise check for a jumper on the focusboard. If it is set to 12V it is at full speed. Different firmware seem to produce different noise. There is a cine max 2.13 firmware. Som say it is more quiet.
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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:35 pm    Post subject:

Hm, checked that. Already set to temp controlled. The 1209s has 4x 120mm fans. The 80mm on the tray are very noisy. Also there there is a small 40mm one on the PFC board. Hmmm. I don't want to flash the firmware, its the only controller board i have.
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:54 pm    Post subject:

Ok there is a guy on the repair forum that says it is fail save because you can set a jumper. He has read the firmware with an eeprom programmer seems he knows what he says but still I did not flash either.

That pfc comes in two models the one later has the little fan diagonal. Still also that one is very noisy I agree. But the other is even worse.

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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:33 pm    Post subject:

Damn! The set is dead Twisted Evil

Removed some boards yesterday because i wanted to compare them to the 1209s and check out how a water cooling could be constructed, last i pulled was driver & switcher. Quite sure it was ok before that.

Now it powers on fine, EHT is running, ABL line visible on tubes but no picture. On vertical board "concidence" led is on, on switcher "mute" goes on after startup, then off and finally on again.

All green LED on G2 board are on. No reaction to remote (IR and build in), even power button as no function. I have to turn it off via the main switch.

All boards are seated well in the right place, no pin is damaged. Checked everything obvious a hundert times. Maybe controller? Or bad soldering on mainboard connector?

Quite clueless Sad

I was afraid of that, i have every board (except the EHT) for the 1209s 3 times, but no parts for the 909.
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:43 pm    Post subject:

Did you try to boot without switcher and driver? I think there is no check for these boards at startup and perhaps you have a short that crashes the controller?
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:46 pm    Post subject:

By the way if you need a spare controller I have one with 2.20 software pretty quiet but a lot of hours. Not to pricy Wink
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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:47 pm    Post subject:

Without driver EHT is absent. Thats the same as the 1209 since the G1 spot supression is on the driver. Remote still not working.
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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:49 pm    Post subject:

Thats good to know! But first of all i have to find out what the problem is...
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:51 pm    Post subject:

Other things to check.
Disconnect the internal remote
Disconnect the rs232 board's
Discoonect the convergence focus astig

I have had boot problems caused by the internal remote and the rs232 in the tray.

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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 6:10 pm    Post subject:

You have the cable that connects switcher to controller connected? You have the jumper on the edge blend connector on the driver?
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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 6:12 pm    Post subject:

Removed internal remote -> no success.

Removed RS232 -> No success. Remote not longer working. Hmm - strange, since there is a rear receiver.

I will try the others later...
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the dude



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
Posts: 179


Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 6:19 pm    Post subject:

HURRY Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

You are my hero!

Now im feeling happy and stupid at the same time Laughing

It was the cable. In the 1209 the controller is in the cover and this cable has no pluggable connector on the main board, so you can't forget it. I tought the connection to the controller is done via the main board in the 909.
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 6:24 pm    Post subject:

Happens a lot Very Happy
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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:57 am    Post subject:

gjaky wrote:
Back to the protection diodes...
I just happend to look at the Ampro schematics again just for the fun and I spotted an interesting method they realized in their CRT amplifier circuit. Here is my theory behind it: in the CRT the spark is always coming from a positive potential. Either from G2 static build up (~1kV) or from anode charge build up (~30kV). So on Cathode output the ground diode is needless on G1 output the negative diode is needless. I don't know what was the failure rate of those CRT amplifiers, but they also used Sanyo video transistors, so Even according to Mike those are more sensitive to arcs.


Ok so I removed the clamping diode D4 and I do think it is a bit better.

Untitled by Radio Head, on Flickr

This is what it used to be

Untitled by Radio Head, on Flickr

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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:59 am    Post subject:

Or compare these:

without diode
Untitled by Radio Head, on Flickr

with
Untitled by Radio Head, on Flickr

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redfox001



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 12:11 pm    Post subject:

I also have a smps fail. Known problem with the standby voltage the thing was beeping my ears off. With the 909 you have to replace these 9V standby caps often with the older machines.
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