| Author |
Message |
rawlk
Joined: 25 Nov 2015
Posts: 11
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hey! Small update. Have a replacement board on its way - Thanks Curt 
Dug around on the board a bit more with a bright light. Looks like redfox was probably right. There are definitely marks on the solder pads like something used to be there. I think the transit in the back of the prius (>.>) that the guy hauled it over in might have shaken it loose. Looked around a bit but I haven't heard anything rattling around loose in there yet :/
Think something else might have burned out or could I try an equivalent 12k resistor? One of yall thinks opamp is probably a gonner and one thinks it should be good... Wager time?
- - (at this point its for testing since there is already a replacement en-route). . Maybe I should focus on the other mods once the verified board gets in and send this over to redfox
Pics! Aren't the cleanest, phone didn't enjoy taking pics of shiny things super close: https://goo.gl/photos/J3tuTzkKib2CNiab6
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Only repair it if you know what your are doing easy to damage more stuff and there is very high tension at the g2 close by.
_________________
701s->runco933->8500ultra->cinemax->9500mp->919 splitpack + cinemax
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
the op-amp itself might have shorted internally and caused the resistor to run hot and solder to fail as well. Doesn't really matter now as you have a new board coming. Personally I wouldn't muck around with that old board unless you had an old burnt tube to test it on, just in case worse comes to worst.
I'm just impressed that the missing part was even spotted based on a pic posted on the net !
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
He's got a working tested board on the way from me along with my last CLMs.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rawlk
Joined: 25 Nov 2015
Posts: 11
|
| Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 7:01 am Post subject: Uhh, all the boards are missing r25... |
|
|
SO, about this... While waiting for the 'new' board to come in I decide to dismantle most of the unit and do a bit of cleaning. Everything is pretty nice looking, just a light dust. HOWEVER...
ALL three of those neckboards are missing the exact same resistor. . can't possibly be a coincidence at this point since the other two function fine. (r25)
https://goo.gl/photos/wXDaijpmDbULQ3vN6
The rasters, though, look superb. As I'm sure you all well know, I couldn't for the life of me get my phone to focus where I wanted. There is a bit of buildup around the edges in each of the tubes, but I'm ok with that for the time being. If you all have suggestions on cleaning that and its not TERRIBLY convoluted or expensive (this is entirely a side project for enjoyment, not an investment at this point ), I might be up for trying it out
https://goo.gl/photos/U27gzwUshcPwaXvWA
Thanks all for the help so far. - - Pending new neck board!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
|
| Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 11:50 am Post subject: |
|
|
now I am curious if you have to take the resistor off from the new board you are getting?
_________________
701s->runco933->8500ultra->cinemax->9500mp->919 splitpack + cinemax
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rawlk
Joined: 25 Nov 2015
Posts: 11
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ok, so another event. Went ahead and re-assembed everything after giving nearly everything a once-over. I say nearly, because I think thats pretty important, I never cracked open the hvps, even the front half. Powered it up with the blue and green attached and all seemed well. it ran for ~5min before the picture flickered a couple times. From there, the picture cut out (only had green on) and we killed it with the remote. And then came the smell  Couldn't see any smoke, but there was definitely something not happy smelling. . .
Left it off and unplugged for ~30m before taking anything apart, but it was pretty apparent. It was coming from the red-tube area. clm smelled fine, so we pulled the hvps. Pretty sure theres something wicked going on there. We found some glycol leaked from the red-tube down into the open circuitry of the hvps. Pics below. Suggestions on diagnosing/fixing/cleaning? What are yall's best ways of cleaning boards?
https://goo.gl/photos/DtLf4v5r9hiJ1M3c9
Looks like r11 may not be too happy. simple replace?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
tschaeikaei
Joined: 08 Apr 2013
Posts: 490
Location: Germany/Saarland
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I'd simply replace it, look for other defective parts in that aerea, clean everything with denaturated alcohol and after letting it dry (you can use a hairdryer)
put it together and look what it does.
Clean the tube and metal parts in between tube and HVPS as well.
Did you check heater voltage yet?
Look for 6,3V on the P14 connector on the right side of the upper main board, under the red tube.
Regards, Julian
_________________
Marquee 9500U edgeblend P43 | NEC 9PG
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rawlk
Joined: 25 Nov 2015
Posts: 11
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 6:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I managed to find a Marquee 8500 at a surplus warehouse a couple miles away from where I currently live. Managed to talk him down to $25 for the whole thing. Not really sure what condition everything is in, but hey, now I have a source for some spare parts.
- Added bonus, the LVPS has the silence fan mod done 
Anyways, the hvps is a slightly different model number and is running at 34.9kv instead of my current 34 kv. From what we could find, it sounds like it is safe to use so I went ahead and put it in (keep in mind, the red vid-amp is not in yet). Turning it on was rather disappointing. No crackle, no real nothing pardon the pop of relays. I'm open to suggestions yet again
https://goo.gl/photos/dsiDdfZautAuvneW9
on a totally unrelated note, a friend of mine bought me an ACTUAL projector screen.... my little hitatchi looks SO much better
https://goo.gl/photos/6iF8qmWA8j5APEuF9
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 10:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Score! Video amp should be there tomorrow, I sent it air.
Try swapping the HVPS into your working set. Ditto for the HDM (horizontal) board.
Do you know how to use a voltmeter, and do you have one? There's a critical check you want to do prior to swapping the LVPS..
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| rawlk wrote: | We found some glycol leaked from the red-tube down into the open circuitry of the hvps. Pics below. Suggestions on diagnosing/fixing/cleaning? What are yall's best ways of cleaning boards?
|
this is really bad news. If Glycol leaked out of Red and made it all the way to the HVPS, that means it soaked the upper motherboard, molex connector to HDM and FCM, and possibly the back-plane, and maybe even crept into the large wiring harness connectors that go from the back plane and power supplies to upper Mobo. That's the bad news.
If all those things are full of Glycol then that chassis is trashed, Do not put any more power supplies in it until there is no more glycol leaking.
The good news is you can use the 8500 chassis with no problems, with either the 8" or 9" tubes. I wouldn't move the 9" tubes over until all the bellows have been replaced with new rubber.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rawlk
Joined: 25 Nov 2015
Posts: 11
|
| Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 3:36 am Post subject: |
|
|
| draganm wrote: | this is really bad news. If Glycol leaked out of Red and made it all the way to the HVPS, that means it soaked the upper motherboard, molex connector to HDM and FCM, and possibly the back-plane, and maybe even crept into the large wiring harness connectors that go from the back plane and power supplies to upper Mobo. That's the bad news.
... |
True! But I suppose I left out a bit of crucial info about that :/ So a few weeks ago when I bought it, the projector was crammed into the trunk of a prius *facepalm* . So it was hanging partway out the back for bout 40 miles. It was up on it's edge (on the red tube side) so when the tube leaked, it leaked down the side and then down to the hvps when we got it back upright :/ The other boards appear clean
@Curt - Yep, I do have a volt meter, just picked up new batteries for it and will be checking the lvps before I try it out... Figured I'd try to replace ~1 failed thing at a time to keep the variables down 
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
|
| Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 9:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| rawlk wrote: | | True! But I suppose I left out a bit of crucial info about that :/ So a few weeks ago when I bought it, the projector was crammed into the trunk of a prius *facepalm* . So it was hanging partway out the back for bout 40 miles. It was up on it's edge (on the red tube side) so when the tube leaked, it leaked down the side and then down to the hvps when we got it back upright :/ The other boards appear clean P |
I would pull all 3 tubes out
http://www.curtpalme.com/Marquee_Teardown1.shtm
and not put them back in until you at LEAST
1) remove a fill screw (very small , 2 on top) and allow any excess pressure to blow out. Wear safety glasses . You actually want a small air bubble in there for expansion during heating/cooling. Replace screws with stainless steel versions.
2) Set tubes on paper towels, leave for 48 hours and make sure they aren't leaking anymore .
3) Thoroughly inspect chassis and upper mother-board for Glycol
4) consider new bellows?
http://www.curtpalme.com/MarqueeBellows.shtm
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
