CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[papalek]

I just picked up another 4600. It has what appears to a set of like new tubes in it and GT17 lenses. When I power it up it powers up HV comes on then shuts down with the following errors

08 at 56
08 at 44
08 at 72
08 at 4a
08 at 5a

Any ideas?

[Luuk neele]

it's the internal battery, replace it.
i replaced it with a sony ps3 controller battery once, worked perfectly.

[Luuk neele]

battery is on the cpu card, its the black rectangular block on the left side

[papalek]

OK I will try that. I have a battery here for it.

[papalek]

Tested battery, It is .8v so it will be changed out. was hoping to be able to see run time on it but doubt that will be possible now.

[Luuk neele]

it writes the CRT use/standby time to eeprom, so that will be retained my friend
you can see that later when you changed the battery.
careful though, as the original battery is a bastard. thats the exact reason i went with a ps3 controller battery (same voltage, much more Mah, holds a charge for longer, is lithium ion, and is rechargeable, it will drip-charge when the pj is on)
the original battery cannot be charged (at least, it's specs show it won't, but it will drip charge as well) and will lose power over the years, until it's dead.

[Curt Palme]

Any lithium battery is typically rated for 5 years. The 4600 is about 20 years old now, so I'd just change it with the stock one. Not sure that an Ampro is going to be around for another 20 years.😎

[Curt Palme]

Any lithium battery is typically rated for 5 years. The 4600 is about 20 years old now, so I'd just change it with the stock one. Not sure that an Ampro is going to be around for another 20 years.😎

[Luuk neele]

[gnnash]

Careful, I wouldn't stick a Lithium-Ion battery in a place where a standard non-rechargeable lithium should be.

If there is voltage present at the battery that normally charges it a bit during operation, you're likely to overcharge the lithium-ion, and, well, they don't exactly take kindly to overcharging - think smoke and fire.

There is a reason why devices with lithium ion batteries have special charging circuitry in them, they can't simply be thrown a dumb voltage like older rechargeables.

[Luuk neele]

it will work fine, the circuitry is in the battery itself.
it's a tiny tiny drip charge, if you even charge it to half capacity it will outlive your pj

[papalek]

I had a good stock one sitting on the shelf so thats what I put in. I will put the card back in and try it out when I get home from work.

[papalek]

OK I put the board in and fired it up. It stayed powered up and is fully functional. Threw some test patterns up and the are razor sharp. If the time displayed is correct then there is a reason it is so clean inside. Not even any dust between the lens and c elements.

TOT 25:10:02

That to me translates into 600 hrs

HV restarts 10

SCORE 1 for me. Cost me $258 delivered to my door.

[ElTopo]

Maybe the most underrated 9 inch projector

Great score

[papalek]

As far as I can tell I got a full set of almost new tubes and a good HV power supply.

[papalek]

I have HD10F lenses so does anybody want these GT17s? they are perfect not a scratch on them.

[digitalayon]

[Clarence]

[cmjohnson]

If your screen is flat, the GT17s are the best lenses you can get. Particularly for an Ampro machine, which has a unique (some might say "stupid" method of lens flapping. (Scheimpflug) I can't remember for certain but I THINK that I once heard that the lenses made for AmPro's 9" LC machines had a unique "prescription" ground for them due to the unique lens flapping configuration, and thus may not deliver optimal performance on other projectors.

I'm pretty sure that the C elements for 9" AmPro LC units is a unique product and is NOT compatible with other kinds of projectors.
I tried to use one once because I had one off a 4600 and as I recall, it was impossible to get the picture to focus.

For those who don't know, the AmPro method of lens flapping moved the lens relative to the C element and CRT. The AmPro LC tank is a solid structure with the tube in one end and the C element in the other. An air gap separates this assembly from the lens, and the bolts and springs that comprise the lens flapping system closely resembles the lens flapping system on a non-LC Marquee projector.

For everybody else, the C element moves with the lens as part of the lens flapping system. C element and lens both move relative to the CRT. Flexible bellows between the CRT and the C element at the other end of the LC tank.

[papalek]

I have an extremely sharp picture from my HD10Fs off a 1292. At least I did many hours ago. I have a lot of hours on the tubes and the pic is degrading so I will be swapping these almost new ones in it. I am using the green C element from a Marquee and a red C element.
And Have ZERO focus issues.

[papalek]

OK I decided that since this PJ I picked up had so few hours on it that I would replace everything in mine. I started to think that all the factory adjustments were made based on that LVPS and that HVPS. plus That CPU and all the rest of the electronics. Nothing is EXACTLY the same. So I stripped mine out of everything except the motherboard. Mine had a good deal of wear on both the Green and Red tubes. Was surprised of more wear on the red than the Blue. But colored C elements on red and green would contribute to the wear.
I changed out all boards and swapped the colored C's onto the tubes. Put it all together. Checking all connections twice. I figured I would try both the GT17's and the 10F's because I had both. The 10F's were sharper by a little bit so that is what is on it again.
I have never had such an easy time with a complete set up. All the parts matched and fairly new made set up a breeze. I don't think I have any adjustment more than + or - 10. a bunch of the convergence settings never had to be touched between the 3 colors.
I made a good choice to swap it all.

And yes the Pic is AWESOME!!!!