CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[dentree]

I think Casey, what Hulio means is the fuse rating between the US 120 volt and 240 have a different rating

Although it has been jumpered for 240, there is an earlier post where he mentions this...........

Anyway my old son, how are you feeling now, I did deduce from another post what you were in dock for, so hope things are improving for you, and then you will be able to go back to tour tight undies !!
Trevor

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Arr i see. Yes in that case the fuses will be rated differently, because rasing the voltage should indeed lower the required current to do the same work.

Im feeling reasonably good thanks mate, still resting and sleeping alot, but i can drive the car again now.

[Hulio]

Trevor, the splitter is on his way to you. Check your PM.

Regards,
Stan

[dentree]

Many thanks Hulio,
Have checked the PM, Will track the progress, I am not sure abut the stuff from Canada, no sign of it yet, but will keep everyone up to date on progress

one again, many thanks
Trevor

[dentree]

Greetings to all, the story so far........but first of all, to Casey, I hope you are feeling much, much better than you were a couple of weeks a go, to Hulio and Stefan, many thanks for the parts, this is now the current situation,

All new parts fitted and running Ok, BUT after running up the projector this morning, I went through another tweak and line up, convergence and focus etc, everything running quite stable with no apparent glitches of any sort...........
until about the 4 hour mark, turned it off for awhile, but when I started it up again the opening screen, and for that matter with a source connected, the image was for the want of a better word "juddering" up and down (about 2 or 3 inches) and sort of "pulsing" forward and back (whole image changing in size) also 2 or 3 inches it is all quite rapid............so Case, I'm on your case again, and Hulio, and anyone else who might recognize the problem as described,
obviously the current issue is totally unrelated to the "new" parts installed, but the issue is across all three tubes,
so once again I am in need of advice and guidance

Trev

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Im not sure what that will be, NECs do that and its dirty yoke connectors. In your case im not sure.

[Hulio]

Did you rechecked the 17V rail with the new HV parts ?

[dentree]

Hulio,
Certainly did, it reads 17.1 volts

[Hulio]

Hmm, it sounds like a problem with the horizontal width voltage ?
The normal procedure is to feed the projector with a 15,6 KHz signal ( or internal test pattern ), set the horizontal width to maximum ( 99 ) with the remote and adjust P2 on SMPS sub-board for a 48V reading on the horizontal deflection board.
The testpoint on this board is the collector of Q13 transistor. Must have a steady hand and try not to touch the clip, else the tranny might be shortened.
In practice, we all use higher resolutions this days and doing so, there is not enough horizontal width to fill the screen with just 48V. Feed the projector with the resolution you normaly watch, put the horizontal width somewhere between 95-99 with the internal remote and adjust P2 on the SMPS sub-board till the width of the picture just fills the screen. See how it goes.

[dentree]

Hulio,

I have read your posts, I did what you originally told me to doe and that was set the Horizontal to 95 actually, and adjusted the P2 pot on the SMPS the image is almost stable,(not quite tho) on motion it is not seen, but on a still frame it becomes evident, but nothing like I described in my first post, so there is a vast improvement, I have run the projector all day and it has not clagged yet, I ran it for about 5 hrs with no air con running (today's outside temp was 35c) inside it got up to about 31c tI just wanted to see if anything was temperature conscius there was no change in performance.

The 48 volt reading on the horizontal deflection board I found the test point OK, I am assuming that the voltage is DC to chassis ground?

The attached picture shows a slightly different transistor arrangement and unlike the picture you sent, there does not seem to be a visible collector plate attached to the transistor compared to your pic, or is the 2 black sooty looking recessed lugs on each side of the tranny, the collector, i am not game to poke around until I hear from you, as a side note the corresponding board sitting in the BG 808 is exactly the same as your pic,this one is a little different, please advise
Trev

[Hulio]

Yes Trev, DC to chassis ground.
Indeed, the layout of the horiz. defl. board is a bit different on Cine 8. You have to measure on the collector of the Q3 transistor ( the middle leg of the bigger tranny on the left side ). Measuring on those recessed lugs, like you said, is also allright. Mostly, the collector is connected to the metal base. Choose whatever you find more comfortable while trying not to touch some other parts.

[dentree]

Hulio,

Report on voltage findings:

Running program material at the frequency I normally use (which is 720p via RGBHV on input 5 the voltage on the SMPS board reads 17.32, whereas the voltage on the horiz. defl. board is reading 91.2 as opposed to the 48 volts you indicated,

your thoughts please.
Trev

Update

Just ran the computer into the projector:

Inpt 3 HD FURY

FH =45.4 RGB

FV 60 RGB

Voltage Readings: 130.2 volts horiz. defl. board

SMPS readings = 17.4 volts

[Hulio]

That's normal. The voltage is frequency dependable. It should read 48V with a standard resolution only ( 15,6KHz ), brightness and contrast at 49 and horizontal width at 99. This is the procedure described in the service manual.
After doing so, if you do not have enough horiz. width to fill the screen with the highest resolution you'll use, it is ok to adjust P2 pot for the proper width.
The 48V reference voltage is not that critical but, when exagerated low or high, it could influence the immage shacking you described. If is not beter, the culprit is somewhere else.

[dentree]

Hi Casey,

Hope you are fully recovered now and back to normal for you.

I have been waiting to mail you because I wanted to tell you that all was good and working beautifully, but unfortunately
that is not the case, I have been having private mails with Hulio, that is why nothing has shown up here, but I did get everything going, the parts from Canada came, as did the Splitter from Hulio, installed everything, and got everything working just fine, in fact I had even got to the stage of installing the HD Fury (which is brilliant by the way) could not believe how good it looked and so sharp, had not entirely come to grips with what can be done with it, but had it looking great !! then disaster struck a couple of days ago, I had left the projector after running it for about 6 hours or so doing setup and covergence things
when I came back I had no image onscreen, pushed a few different input buttons to no avail, then looked into the rear and saw the dreaded red glow coming from the EHT, so I shut it all down for about 5 minutes or so, then fired it up again, the first thing I saw was a spark shoot across the splitter, so, shut down again, re-started and watched what happened, this time there was a brightish flash/glow from between the back of the splitter and the mounting plate.

I took it out of the machine and had a good look at it and found that it had burned a tiny hole in the casing and created a crack in the case, the flash/glow was the spark jumping the gap to the mounting plate, so now I have yet another dead HV device.

I do have a couple of usable splitters still (one from the BG 808 and the other from the CINE although not the right one according to Hulio) but after reading the Barco bulletin again I have convinced myself that they are not compatible with the new Quad and EHT, Hulio, poor chap, is I think, quite gutted that the splitter that he sent with very low hours on it, and it also came from a Cine 8 has failed, so now I am back to square one after all the effort you, Hulio and all the others have put in to make this happen, it's quite sad for you and them and quite demoralizing for me, as we have all come so far and for a brief moment had total success, now it's more to do with further expenditure to try and source another compatible splitter..........anyway my old son, thats my rant/report/update for the moment, got it almost all tweaked up and dialled in, and never even got to sit down and watch a movie !!

But...tomorrow is another day...yes?

Kindest regards

Trev

[AnalogRocks]

Awwww many condolences on you loss of visual nirvana.

[AnalogRocks]

Awwww many condolences on you loss of visual nirvana.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Trev im going ok here mate thanks, although we have some flooding issues here at present, not at my home but in areas between there and work.

My Barco is out of action at the moment still.

[dentree]

One minor ? concern,
The blue tube is "pulsing" like a visual rise and fall in luminance, the G2 adjustment is correct in as far as the light on the neckboard is OFF, it is not a huge amount,
but enough to be noticable especially on skintone, it keeps changing slightly from a more natural color to a bluish cast, are there any other voltage adjustments with regard to the output, I did consider a "crusty" pot, so rotated the blue G2 pot through it's range thinking it might clear the issue, but it had no effect at all.

Also is there any information out there relating to factory settings for all the gain adjustments and all the cutoff adjustments, the Gamma has a factory setting but all the other settings I do not know what would be a good starting point to then conduct any adjustments.
Thanks to everybody once again
Trev

[macgyver655]

If you are absolutely sure it is only on the blue CRT, then try swapping the video out/CRT board with another tube.

[dentree]

Which is the video out/crt board you refer to on the Barco Cine 8?

[macgyver655]

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout10.shtm