CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[mookee]

hi.

after having big troubles with my nec at setting it up for my ps1 i didnt use it for a while:x . anyway, now, just the same behaviour as during my ps1 troubles, the picture only gets fine if i press "end" several times. but if i want to adjust it then, all menues are someanynotreadablething. i thought it was my bad ps1 cable (so i threw it to hell) but now its the same running through vga to rgb. that definitly worked fine in former times. i tried 1280x720 @60hz and 1440x720@60hz..all the same s**t. only stupid 1024x768@60hz works just fine with all menues working and so on..


whats going on there please, anyone experienced the same?


bw. christoph

[Curt Palme]

Leaking capacitors on either the deflection board or the system board.

[Curt Palme]

Leaking capacitors on either the deflection board or the system board.

[Curt Palme]

Actually, why am I saying 'or'?

the correct answer is:

Leaking capacitors on EVERY board!

[Curt Palme]

Actually, why am I saying 'or'?

the correct answer is:

Leaking capacitors on EVERY board!

[mookee]

ähhh i thought so... well, thanks so far.

thanks and bw.

christoph

[Curt Palme]

I am clearing out a whole bunch of CRT parts, including NEC PG stuff. I know shipping will be $75 or so, but if you want other boards, let me know.

[Curt Palme]

I am clearing out a whole bunch of CRT parts, including NEC PG stuff. I know shipping will be $75 or so, but if you want other boards, let me know.

[mookee]

hey.

new ones? how much for them



btw. new caps where exactly please, if i want to do it myself. only the deflection board or which else. and about how many single caps are we talking of?
thanks lg c.

[mookee]

its so weird. after 5 houres on power and several diferent resolutions doing nothing reasonable i got a 1280x1024 @60hz picture now, stable enough for a signal entry (which all got lost during non-use btw.)

weird

may i SHOULD repair that fat f**k instead of seeling away as soon as possible

no offence V

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Stop using it before it becomes f***ed. you will need to replace the capacitors on almost every board if theyre original.

[Curt Palme]

No, old as-is boards. For a few $$, I can test them to make sure you get working one, but otherwise I'll pull them off the shelf and just send them to you.

It doesn't really matter what hours the boards have on them, both low and high hour boards have leaking capacitors on them. Spend $50 on capacitors, and a few nights to replace a bunch. It's usually the 22 and 33 and 47uF ones that leak.

[Curt Palme]

No, old as-is boards. For a few $$, I can test them to make sure you get working one, but otherwise I'll pull them off the shelf and just send them to you.

It doesn't really matter what hours the boards have on them, both low and high hour boards have leaking capacitors on them. Spend $50 on capacitors, and a few nights to replace a bunch. It's usually the 22 and 33 and 47uF ones that leak.

[Curt Palme]

Oops, and 10uf! and 100uF

[Curt Palme]

Oops, and 10uf! and 100uF

[CasetheCorvetteman]

And almost everything else.

[mookee]

hmm, ok thanks curt! i totally would, but the shipping cost, OMG...

is it hard to dissamble it to get the boards out. is there a manual for that procedure? and really, every board?

thanks

(aja, case;) it seems i might even got my ps1 cable right but couldnt do the trick out of the here mentioned reasons..haha;( annoyingly..well)

[Curt Palme]

Shipping won't be bad, about $75 to get 5-6 boards to you. All you need is a Philips screwdriver. Check for leakage under all electrolytics. you'll see little puddles of clear/pink/green/blue goop under them, or if there's nothing on the board, look for discolored leads going to the PC board.

WE've discussed this here before, but I would clip off the capacitors at the top of the board, then solder in the new caps to the wires sticking out of the board. The electrolyte will smell strange as it is burned off, but you'll get used to it.

[Curt Palme]

Shipping won't be bad, about $75 to get 5-6 boards to you. All you need is a Philips screwdriver. Check for leakage under all electrolytics. you'll see little puddles of clear/pink/green/blue goop under them, or if there's nothing on the board, look for discolored leads going to the PC board.

WE've discussed this here before, but I would clip off the capacitors at the top of the board, then solder in the new caps to the wires sticking out of the board. The electrolyte will smell strange as it is burned off, but you'll get used to it.

[mookee]

why not the common soldering way downside up?

[gjaky]

The traces are very fine on some of the boards, and the capacitor legs are bent, so when you pull them out the bent leg pulls out the via as well.
On the other hand I got a pretty good technique to pull them out without damage, I damaged probably 3 vias with ~400 changed capacitors. On system boards, however, I didn't want to risk pulling vias, so I clipped there too.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

The leaking caps damage and soften the boards, and if you choose to remove the capacitors rather than snip their legs and solder that that, youre going against some very good advice.

[gjaky]

By the way, how are the tubes looking? With burnt tubes I'm not sure I'd start in a recapping now...

[mookee]

hey,
i did the step by step way installation and got a good look on the tubes there -i think they are okay..



i understand and will take the advice, thanks!

[mookee]

seems tricky to get to the cap pins from beyond, as the caps are soldered quite tight to the board! any tipps there?

lg

[Curt Palme]

Use diagonal cutters, and cut off the capacitors

[Curt Palme]

Use diagonal cutters, and cut off the capacitors