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Cheapest solution for drifting
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thewolfman



Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:41 pm    Post subject: Cheapest solution for drifting

What boards are to be changed to make it less drifting? My blue, but by far my red, is drifting like mad for at least an hour or more. I solve it by quickly realign it when I first fire it up; and then some more times every 15 minutes or so. Bottom line I'm fed up with it. Money is tied up elsewhere but what free advice you got for me? Smile

Thanks in advance!


Last edited by thewolfman on Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:44 pm    Post subject:

Doing the Dragan HD mods will most likely cure it. There's no good answer here, as several boards can affect drifting. Convergence, vertical, astig and H board can all do it.
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thewolfman



Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:54 pm    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
Doing the Dragan HD mods will most likely cure it. There's no good answer here, as several boards can affect drifting. Convergence, vertical, astig and H board can all do it.


He's good at that, but it'll have to wait. Sending boards to him would be insanely expensive so I have to do this on my own. Somehow. Sad
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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 11:51 pm    Post subject:

Just do the mods yourself.
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Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...

RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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thewolfman



Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:21 am    Post subject:

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Just do the mods yourself.


I want to man, but without a de-soldering iron, it's very difficult to make it right.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:23 am    Post subject:

Best post I've read all day... a guy that knows when to stop when he doesn't have the right tools. Thumbs up! Smile
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thewolfman



Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:31 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
Best post I've read all day... a guy that knows when to stop when he doesn't have the right tools. Thumbs up! Smile


You should higher your prices even.. Smile I honour you, Sir! Smile I have the fullest respect for you and Sir Michael Parker for NOT ripping us off. I mean it.
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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:42 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
Best post I've read all day... a guy that knows when to stop when he doesn't have the right tools. Thumbs up! Smile

Even when he could buy the required tools for about $50 Laughing

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Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...

RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:44 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
Best post I've read all day... a guy that knows when to stop when he doesn't have the right tools. Thumbs up! Smile

Even when he could buy the required tools for about $50 Laughing

_________________
Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...

RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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thewolfman



Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 1:31 am    Post subject:

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Curt Palme wrote:
Best post I've read all day... a guy that knows when to stop when he doesn't have the right tools. Thumbs up! Smile

Even when he could buy the required tools for about $50 Laughing


I'm off and play with my t*tties.
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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 2:24 am    Post subject:

HAHAHAHAHA!!!! Laughing
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Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...

RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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paw



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1176
Location: Arvada, CO

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 3:35 am    Post subject:

I was thinking an old 280Z with some slicks on the back would be good for drifting. Razz
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 3:55 am    Post subject: Re: Cheapest solution for drifting

thewolfman wrote:
What boards are to be changed to make it less drifting? My blue, but by far my red, is drifting like mad for at least an hour or more. I solve it by quickly realign it when I first fire it up; and then some more times every 15 minutes or so. Bottom line I'm fed up with it. Money is tied up elsewhere but what free advice you got for me? Smile

Thanks in advance!



Not how your suppose to do this.

Fist What I have found is to let pj warm up for an hour with the LC housings loose so they can move with the heat.

Then when the PJ is warmed up try to use a mechanical movement of the LC Chambers/Lenses to align the
grid. Also make sure the Blue and red grids are centered first before moving the housings, then tighten down the LC housings really well. Now do the convergence.


You then just let the PJ warm up for a while before watching. Converging cold is counter productive, you always do a set up with the PJ when the Temp stabilizes. an hour is the best reference point. Color calibration should also be done with this time period.

nashou

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the big E



Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 4:02 am    Post subject:

I agree fully with Nash

Both my marquee and my dwin holds the convergence better if it is done when the set is warmed up first

Main thing is getting the tube toe in right FIRST go into the convergence menu and reset it then do what Nash said and then do the convergence afterwards

It's saved me a lot of trouble in the long run

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tschaeikaei



Joined: 08 Apr 2013
Posts: 490
Location: Germany/Saarland

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 10:19 am    Post subject:

Im'm interested in that, too. But does anyone know which projector we're talking about?
Mentioning the dragan mods means that it should be a marquee?
Ok, please tell me.
Regards, Julian

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jbmeyer13



Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1135


Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 3:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Cheapest solution for drifting

Nashou66 wrote:
thewolfman wrote:
What boards are to be changed to make it less drifting? My blue, but by far my red, is drifting like mad for at least an hour or more. I solve it by quickly realign it when I first fire it up; and then some more times every 15 minutes or so. Bottom line I'm fed up with it. Money is tied up elsewhere but what free advice you got for me? Smile

Thanks in advance!



Not how your suppose to do this.

Fist What I have found is to let pj warm up for an hour with the LC housings loose so they can move with the heat.

Then when the PJ is warmed up try to use a mechanical movement of the LC Chambers/Lenses to align the
grid. Also make sure the Blue and red grids are centered first before moving the housings, then tighten down the LC housings really well. Now do the convergence.


You then just let the PJ warm up for a while before watching. Converging cold is counter productive, you always do a set up with the PJ when the Temp stabilizes. an hour is the best reference point. Color calibration should also be done with this time period.

nashou


Proper mechanical set up is critical. I introduced an additional step to mechanical set up that helps to ensure optimal alignment which leads to minimal if any drift. Initially the set up guide asks you to center R/B raster and then align the guns at the edges of the green grid. The problem is that once you fully converge the image the R and B raster's are then shifted off center on the tube face. At this point you need to re-center the R/B raster's and then perform another physical alignment of the R/B to G.

Nash is dead on about needing to wait one hour for the PJ to warm up.

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thewolfman



Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Cheapest solution for drifting

jbmeyer13 wrote:
Nashou66 wrote:
thewolfman wrote:
What boards are to be changed to make it less drifting? My blue, but by far my red, is drifting like mad for at least an hour or more. I solve it by quickly realign it when I first fire it up; and then some more times every 15 minutes or so. Bottom line I'm fed up with it. Money is tied up elsewhere but what free advice you got for me? Smile

Thanks in advance!



Not how your suppose to do this.

Fist What I have found is to let pj warm up for an hour with the LC housings loose so they can move with the heat.

Then when the PJ is warmed up try to use a mechanical movement of the LC Chambers/Lenses to align the
grid. Also make sure the Blue and red grids are centered first before moving the housings, then tighten down the LC housings really well. Now do the convergence.


You then just let the PJ warm up for a while before watching. Converging cold is counter productive, you always do a set up with the PJ when the Temp stabilizes. an hour is the best reference point. Color calibration should also be done with this time period.

nashou


Proper mechanical set up is critical. I introduced an additional step to mechanical set up that helps to ensure optimal alignment which leads to minimal if any drift. Initially the set up guide asks you to center R/B raster and then align the guns at the edges of the green grid. The problem is that once you fully converge the image the R and B raster's are then shifted off center on the tube face. At this point you need to re-center the R/B raster's and then perform another physical alignment of the R/B to G.

Nash is dead on about needing to wait one hour for the PJ to warm up.


Good stuff there, from all of you. I do the normal steps, like described, but haven't had the patience to wait a full hour and than align. It's more like 40 minutes. But I'm sure there are steps that needs some closer attention the next time around, and will do it all over again soon when I got some money to bail out the refurbished blue tube from the post office.

And also, my pj is not to far forward as I mentioned in some other thread. I deducted another 20 points from HTOT and the image fits the screen now. But there are a yellowish tone from top to bottom and a foot wide on the left side still that just wont leave. If it still there, after the blue tube has been changed, I'll post an image to show you. It wasn't there before when I had it set up with long retrace.
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the big E



Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 4:47 pm    Post subject:

Also if you need help after letting the set warm up hit the help button and select guided mechinacal setup and the projector will walk you through the whole process

I used it when I first set up my Ecp but haven't had to use it with my marquee(dwin doesn't have it)

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thewolfman



Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 5:45 pm    Post subject:

tschaeikaei wrote:
Im'm interested in that, too. But does anyone know which projector we're talking about?
Mentioning the dragan mods means that it should be a marquee?
Ok, please tell me.
Regards, Julian


Yes, it's a Marquee, but this involves any projector. I assume Barco or any other brand drifts to a certain degree also. In fact, I'll wait 90 minutes next time and do it all over again from scratch.
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the big E



Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:06 pm    Post subject:

thewolfman wrote:
tschaeikaei wrote:
Im'm interested in that, too. But does anyone know which projector we're talking about?
Mentioning the dragan mods means that it should be a marquee?
Ok, please tell me.
Regards, Julian


Yes, it's a Marquee, but this involves any projector. I assume Barco or any other brand drifts to a certain degree also. In fact, I'll wait 90 minutes next time and do it all over again from scratch.


A hour will do

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crt king of black
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