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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:54 pm Post subject: Adjusting width coils |
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I'm off by like a 1/2 inch on the left side, to align green and red and blue correctly, but don't have the plastic tool needed for this. What size is it? If you happen to have seen one on ebay.com I could buy one asap. This negligence needs to stop to have to alter between having the mid section, out of 3 vertical grid bars perfect, or the the mid part unsharp and the 2 outer once most sharp. I may as well ask which coils are to be adjusted for this on the HDM. I need to glue one as it got broke in shipping (but no fault on the sender, as it was very well packed!) because customs decided to have a field day with soccer that day.
Thanks in advance.
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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Grab a wooden chopstick and file it down. that's more durable than those plastic ones on eBay, as sometimes the ferrite cores seize up, and will instantly snap the plastic ones.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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That was a very useful tip I have to say! Will do that if I find a chopstick at the local china kitchen.
On a side note, should focus coil be shifted up and down like on the Barco for maximum focus? Like as for Vinny and his Barco? I have about the width of a finger to shift if so.
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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Set the electronic focus to 50, then slide the coil forward and back for best focus. you'll be closest to the 50% mark then, giving you max range if it ever drifts.
BTW, a plastic chopstick works too!
Last edited by Curt Palme on Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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"You'll be closest to the 505 mark then, giving you max range if it ever drifts."
I don't understand that last part.. sorry.
As for the focus coil, I will try that. But I bought Frankenyokes 2 from a forum member, witch has a cut off aligning ring loose in the front of the focus coil, behind it I have yet another one with the 6 pole magnets. The question is; should I ditch the loose one and just focus the coil back and forth like you said? If I keep those the adjustment range will be more like 1/2 a finger. As of now both red and blue are sharper than green witch can't be right. Though, the pj is fitted with 4-pole magnets now, and only that, but want to make the very best of it when putting the rest of the gear back in again.
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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I use a metal allen key with some radio control model fuel hose on it.
_________________ Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...
RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:48 pm Post subject: |
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| thewolfman wrote: | "You'll be closest to the 505 mark then, giving you max range if it ever drifts."
I don't understand that last part.. sorry.
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Sorry, 50%, the centrepoint for the focusing range. Edited above post for clarity.
you can use a metal screwdriver to adjust the coils if they are a slot screw, but metal tends to shatter the ferrite, and you absolutely need to adjust the coils with the power off. THe metal of the screwdriver shaft absorbs the high frequency current going through the coils (the metal works like a transformer), and the screwdriver shaft gets hot really quickly.
Like everyone else, I've cheated in the past, but it's best to turn off the set, adjust the coils a bit, turn the set back on to see what difference you've made, then adjust again, etc. It's much faster with the proper tool.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | I use a metal allen key with some radio control model fuel hose on it. |
I'm thinking wood on this one..
I'm on a role.. so may as well go with another semi topic.. the blooming on the left side of the image. The ordinary bystander would not pick up on this, but they would over time, as there seem to be a slightly smeared section on the left side. I made a drawing to point that out. I got a new refurbished blue tube coming in soon, on top the green already being swapped, an hopefully that will make the yellowish go away. The latter part is way more prominent in that area also, witch confirms in a way, that there are more light out-put in that particularity area, causing tube swap more frequently because of it. I think!
Last edited by thewolfman on Fri Mar 07, 2014 7:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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Looks to me to be a screen issue maybe? try tacking up a white sheet of cotton and see if it goes away. It doesn't really make sense that it's the projector.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | Looks to me to be a screen issue maybe? try tacking up a white sheet of cotton and see if it goes away. It doesn't really make sense that it's the projector. |
You could be right. The screen is the very cheapest ting you could buy with 2,35.1 in Sweden. It does not say having a more light-out-put than any other standard screen.. but has got this "shine" to it. Meaning I can see the surface of the screen ahead of the movie behind it.. like 2 inches 3D depths that shouldn't be there. It's got hand palms imprint from me from putting it together, and yes I was very careful doing it, but there anyway. Sort of material you would use to make a bathing balloon, really soft and stretchy to say the least.
Nahh, walking the dogs just now, made me think it may be the very thing I was talking about: The smearing is mostly caused by the grids not being perfectly aligned on the left. What may look like a 1-2 clicks from the sofa, to align, may be 3-5 up close to the screen. That's probably it, but does not explain the very sharp cutting of a knife on the former green on the left side. Strange.
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:41 am Post subject: |
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Lenses are crooked.
_________________ Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...
RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:13 am Post subject: |
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You know, that would be true if green could to be shifted either way (or rather could/can) that would explain some of it. The holes on the side made the holes in the ceiling from shining lasers through them.. and yet got this feeling this is not right from just looking at tubes from either front or back. The green lens look far to the right looking from the front.. and far to the right looking from the back. I think you may be spot on .. I'm doing it all over again, because something isn't fundamentally right. I'm doing this with a different approach; measuring from the mid spot off the screen (with a 90 degree tool) and going forwards it should match up with the centre of green and the holes the sides.. if not.. I'm off like you said. It's just not right as is.
The head of the design department should be fired.. because that sh*t is all wrong.. who in the hell makes a laser leveller pentagram shaped. Unbelievable. You can't just tuck next to the middle of the screen - and have it shine to the green lens centre.. but nooow.. someone at head office had the brilliant idea to make it pentagon shaped. "Everyone will love it!" He said.
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:37 am Post subject: |
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Easiest way to see if its pointing straight is measure corner of screen to opposite corner of projector, but if the lens flapping is out abit youll get something simular to what you seen to be describing.
_________________ Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...
RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:24 am Post subject: |
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http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip9.htm
http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/TV_and_Radio_Alignment_Tools.html
There's my answer. 0,10 inches. Will buy that, and will give it a try, and if it snaps I'm going old school with oriental sticks.
EDIT: I have done 2 re-sets so far, and almost gotten rid of the smearing on the left side witch was caused by a combination of things, but mostly a focus issue between RGB-focus and master-focus! When finished, I still got an image that was yellowish on the left side, with maser-focus at 52, but got a white-bluish tone at 53 I discovered and using that of course. So my blue tube is in fact minty after all, but will get the refurbished tube anyway because it's not perfect as there are some yellowing still present.
In the end, I got a very usable image after realigning green tube on it's own and the chassis separately. After swivelling the pj so many times back and forth, I got an issues with lens-flapping also, but got that sorted now. As of now, I have gotten as close to a perfect uniformity I could ask for. Measuring screen-center and green-center many times over, I came to the conclusion that it's off by like 1/2 an inch or so, so can never achieve perfect results the way it sits. Even so, I think the edge-to-edge uniformity is very close to 10-10-10 now (with the new lenses) witch was my goal all along. But not completely perfect yet.
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