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CRT only

 
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noos@xp37+



Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Berlin/Munich

Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:24 am    Post subject: CRT only

Tested 3d with 180hz on my Ultra - well did not find a difference to 144/150hz (shutter timing shows more effect at this speed). But everything beyond 120hz make me king of the digital hood here.

Picture becomes rock solid (even at white screens), and brighter than normal.

But I just read that a 909 does 240hz vertical!? If someone wants to test, please interlace or reduce vertical lines - because you might reach scan regions where no one has gone before.

(Nvidia 3d Vision 2 glasses did 144/150/180hz. Will test Nuvision, Stereographics and other glasses....)
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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:46 am    Post subject:

I tested this some time ago on an LG F700P CRT monitor, i went right up to 240Hz, but didnt find it to be much better than 100Hz. I have both types of nVIDIA glasses, versions 1 and 2, and there is really no major change between them that makes one better than the other.
_________________
Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...

RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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noos@xp37+



Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Berlin/Munich

Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:27 am    Post subject:

Hey and thanks. But at 100hz in a bright scene I can see the glasses shutter Sad
That is logical, because you get a black picture from the glasses on the bright screen.
This is reduced at 120hz and close to gone at 144/150hz. From there the timing of the glasses limits perception.

One point that tends to cover glasses flicker is brighness. On a normal gain screen, a dim crt projector image was pleasent to me even at 96hz. When running the same crt with contrast 75 instead of 50, 120 hz were needed. But 144/150 looked better, more solid - talking about bright screens.
Then when going to a high gain metallic curve screen at contrast 50, 144/150hz were needed to eliminate flicker. Now if I turn up to 75 contrast, flicker will be back (but is at the limit of perception.)

By the way: Nvidia glasses are fine as they support all hz rates down 70hz plus somthing. But they only deliver a poor stereo contrast (stereo separation ratio) at setups with good 3d bightness. I will add one stereo test pattern that should have the allowed size. If more are wanted, I can up more. Load it into nvidia stereoscopic player or the full Stereoscopic Player....
Stereo separation ratio describes how good one stereo picture is separated from the eye that should not see it. Check the well known Barco Stereo PDf, and watch the stereo separation numbers on the left for the active and passive technology! I just did extensive tests with circular and linear polarization material, and circular Zscreens to see what I am going to use. I was dissapointed by the results! I used mad expensive circular material - but it gives tooooo much ghosting, so did the circular Z-screen. Linar polarisation was way better, but you can not tilt your head towards the shoulder without loosing polarisation - but also if when, ghosting is still too visible. As my screen perserved optimal polarisation , I checked the internet why passiv ghosts so much. Thats when I found the stereo separation ratio, and that this a known problem of polarisation. But we all saw the good theater 3d?! Yes, when you seach you will find out that real3D video units/projectors get ghosting inhibiting algorithms via updates. So I expext them to decrease contrasts at boarders and so on.

So the premium way to go is to use shutter glasses. As their LCDs improve, the stereo sparation ratio increases!



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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:43 pm    Post subject:

I will get back to this soon, but i generally use both my XG and CineMAX at 72-75Hz with really good results to my eyes, no one else has ever complaint.

What timings do you use for 1920x1080 72Hz to avoid the ghost at the bottom? Also for 1366x768 at both 72 and 75Hz?

_________________
Barco Cine 9, ,Sony VPL570ES 4K SXRD, 135" OZ Theatre Majestic 16:9 screen, Denon X6700in preamp mode, 2x 7ch Tonewinner amps, 2x Tonewinner 15" subs, 2x 10" subs, 7.2.6...

RUNCO DTV991 LC ( NEC XG 852 LC ) 100" 4:3 screen, H/K AVR 7.1...
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noos@xp37+



Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Berlin/Munich

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:55 am    Post subject:

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
I will get back to this soon, but i generally use both my XG and CineMAX at 72-75Hz with really good results to my eyes, no one else has ever complaint.

What timings do you use for 1920x1080 72Hz to avoid the ghost at the bottom? Also for 1366x768 at both 72 and 75Hz?



If shutter glasses close 36 times a second per eye at refresh rate of 72 on a bright picture, this is exactly like looking into a stoboscobe in a disco. But I used this too at certain machines with good results. As I said, it all depends on the screen brightness or on the type of scene you are looking (bright or dark settings).

Timinigs:
I consider you mean 3D Vision ghosting on all three colour channels, not only on green as this needs p43 phosphor (and that I enjoy very much). The three colours ghosting has itīs reason in Nvidia 3d Vision calculation a wrong 3d glasses sync - for your specific viewing device that is not 3d Vision ready. It might be edid enabled to use 3d vision, but your CRTS have a different processing time than the 3D Vision ready devices. Or you use old forceware drivers in CRT mode via VGA, as this tends to produce wrong timings too. (By the way, all edid hacks on new forcwares work also in VGA/RGBHV mode). Also many PC mainboards are reported to add a delay via usb to the 3d sync.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/477201/3d-vision/recommended-mainboard-for-ghosting-free-3d-vision/1

...top and bottom ghosting changes depending on floor or ceiling mount.


Conclusion: Extract the glasses sync from DVI/HDMI (like Moome), or the VGA signal. Or use glasses that offer full control over switching parameters.

Ps.: I stepped away from altering 3d perception/sync position via vertical porches (on p43 machines). I tend to run them at 50 or below (as low as possible) - because the less vertical porches you use, the less flicker you get. There is no point at running 144/150hz with big vertical porches. The tunig on vertical porches at high refresh rates brought an outstanding real life effect on the 3D picture.

Regards
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