CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

kironk · Joined: 26 Jun 2013 Posts: 11 Location: France / Vosges

The liquid can be bought in pharmacies. It costs a few dollars. I do it a few months it's perfect.
Propylène Glycol 75% Glycérine 25%

winny · Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 5:41 pm Post subject:

Success!

Got a R7617481 along with other various bits in the mail today. I swapped it in the projector and fired it up and all three tubes lit up. Yayyyy!

Curt, I'll contact you again regarding the glycol and colored C-elements.

winny · Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:19 pm Post subject:

Got glycol and colored C-elements today and took the tube assembly out. From what I can tell the only point of leak was from the C-element's O-ring and the silicone looks fine.

As for draining the glycol I have read the guide for marquee owners. How about the Barco? Is there no screw and just the plastic hose connector? Then flush with water followed by destilled water? Isopropanol better?
How to make sure it does not leak again? Seal the O-ring with silicone?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

To me it looks like the best way to go is to put tube facing up and remove the plate that holds the C-element. clean the tube face with water and some bleach and the rest of the housing. Add glycol from the top and then put C-e;emit in. screw down. While you have it out inspect the O ring for any cracks if so maybe you can find a similar one in size online.

then if there is any mor glycol needed fill from the hose connector. Also clean out the house very well.

nashou

winny · Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:36 pm Post subject:

Ah! By o-ring I was refering to the outer ring of the C-element but now I realize that the metal plate/carrier for the C-element will have an O-ring as well.

But should I just drain the remaining glycol by polling off the hose connector and let gravity do the job or should I flush it? I can't access every compartment of the glycol system by means of cotton swab or similar so if I can't get everything out, I will just dilute the old glycol with fresh.

winny · Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:54 pm Post subject:

Got the glycol out today. It went everywhere! Luckily is neither sticky nor poisonous. Wink

What do you refer to as bleach? Sodium hydroxide? Chlorine?

The glycol was not at all as yellow as in the horror pictures in the glycol-change-HOWTOs but it was very cloudy. This brings me back to my point, if water caused this in the first place and I cannot guarantee that all of it will dry out if I clean it, especially the porous cast iron housing, how to best proceed?

The O-ring looked fine by visual inspection but the screws where however severly overtightened. Are spares available for peace of mind? Moreover, the colored C-elements came with silicone residue around the seals. Does adding silicone do any good if the pressure inside is high enough to burst past the C-element seal anyway?

The tube surface and C-element had some very sticky goo on it. The tube surface will be easy to clean but there are lots of compartments I will never be able to reach. Are you sure I should not flush it with isopropanol?

Picture of tube face attached for reference.

gjaky · Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 2802 Location: Budapest, Hungary

winny · Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:41 pm Post subject:

Ah, my irony-smiley didn't make it. I'll edit the post and try again.

barclay66 · Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:42 pm Post subject:

gjaky · Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 2802 Location: Budapest, Hungary

winny · Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 8:20 pm Post subject:

An hour with cotton swabs, tops and isopropanol later and I can now see the phosphor face behind the yellow goo. The isopropanol cleaner did leave residue behind but I washed out 99 % of it with distilled water. I will leave it to dry overnight but since the housing does not sit tight against the tube face (for allowing the glycol to cool the entire tube and not just the face?) I'm afraid it will not dry out completely.

I have asked before but no reply so I try again. How important is it to get all the water out ? Everyone/all guides suggests to use distilled water for cleaning.

barclay66 · Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 8:58 pm Post subject:

winny · Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:37 pm Post subject:

Decibel · Joined: 31 May 2007 Posts: 904 Location: Roma - Italia

In the last picture I see many imperfections. It's just dirty?
Maybe you could use one of those sponges used to wash the dishes.

winny · Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:41 am Post subject:

Yes, yellow goo stuck to the suface. Took an hour to rub out with cotton swabs and isopropanol. I added the images in chronological order but they appear in reverse chronological order for some reason.

Decibel · Joined: 31 May 2007 Posts: 904 Location: Roma - Italia

When I had to wash the inside of the housings of the tubes I used the shower (with the hose).
You could use a hair dryer to dry.

winny · Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:49 am Post subject:

I thought about that but with zero previous experience I didn't want to take the magnets and coil assemblies off so I have just masked them with newspaper and then wash carefully with distilled water and let it drain via the plastic tube down into a container.

Good news is that I can't see much wear. A bit more yellow towards the center but no defined edge between worn and unworn phosphor.

Decibel · Joined: 31 May 2007 Posts: 904 Location: Roma - Italia

winny · Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 10:14 am Post subject:

Yes, and not break anything in the removal process. Perhaps next time.

barclay66 · Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 12:44 pm Post subject: