CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[CasetheCorvetteman]

[winny]

Got the screen up today after a lot of drilling, modifying the concrete anchors, taking measures and filing one of the anchors down when in place (that lovely feeling of working above your head). Sorry about the mess in the pictures, I'll clean when everything is up.

Firing up the 808s, I notice two things, I might run out of room to fill the screen and the raster was already off the edge of the tube. So I set the brightness to the lowest and was able to look into the lens without sunglasses and there was not much area left to zoom out any further and yet the picture did not fill my screen. Should be enough with 3.0 meter distance lens-screen for 2.13 meter screen width according to the calculator, but I doubt it. Also, I could see that the pattern was a bit bent on the far left edge of the screen and looking into the tube, it was obvious that the grid was outside the phosphor area in the left upper and lower corner.

To fix this, I would really like to have the remote since lying on the floor under the projector behind the case was not a comfortable position and I need to look into the tube while I'm adjusting. How to sync/address the projector and remote? They did not talk to each other when I put a battery in the remote. Also, when adjusting the raster, I had to choose a resolution from the menu first. Does this setting affect the raster setup? Is there one setup per resolution stored in the projector?

[winny]

Found the remote in the manual and after some adjustments, I got to this stage without hitting the wall. It will hang right over my head in the couch. I hope the concrete anchors hold up.

One thing tough, after mechanically adjusting the red and blue tube, am I guaranteed to not run out of phosphor area on the red and blue if I push the green all the way out?

[fragzero]

I would do some basic geometry work to see what's required to fill your screen! You are quite close to the edges of the tubes!

Also, seems your image is way too low and you are already at the max size on the tubes, you could lower the back of the projector to reduce the angle of the tubes and bring the image up, this way you are able to use more phosphor which increase the amount of light the projector produces and might increase the max resolution.

[winny]

[fragzero]

[winny]

[fragzero]

That's true, i only have a 16:9 screen so never encountered that issue!

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco_Setup_Quick_Reference_Guide.shtm

That's a good basic overview.

Raster should stay the same for all inputs and resolutions!

Do toe-in using the Guy Kuo procedure (see the link above) - you can use normal raster shift to position the image on the tubes (you'll get it when you read the procedure).
Afterwards center the rasters using the potentiometers inside (they are described here http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout1.shtm

I'm no setup hero so this might not be the 100% best way to do this!

[winny]

Well, I'm on the other end of the setup hero scale.

I did the same setup a bit more carefully and then starting with finding the steel reinforcement bars in the roof. There was some sort of method to the madness but it's quite hard with a consumer stud/metal finder to get precise results. Looked like I was in the clear and went off with the hammer drill.

Tried doing a chin with just two concrete anchors holing the bar and with me weighing about the same as a projector, it should be safe with six of them. Now I just need said colleague again to do the hoist since there is no break in the block and rope.

[winny]

Ended up hoisting it myself. Heavy stuff!

Despite careful measurement the raster did not center. I have a few cm of movement on both the projector and the screen but I think I will live with it for the moment.

Getting the convergence right was a quagmire. Spent a solid hour on my initial setup with the built in ntsc pattern, only to have to start all over again when I hooked up the HD fury. I never got the full width of the picture either and changing h phase to correct this ment that the convergence had to be done all over again.

It's getting late here so I thought I would settle with a laserdisc for the moment since the ntsc setup is well adjusted. The scanlines are almost unbearable! What scan doubbler or quadrupler is recommended?

[thewolfman]

Hej kompis!

Har du köpt denna från Jari i göteborg?

Har min i kedjor, uninverted, så kan fiddla som jag vill. Lättåtkomligt.

Till sist: Välkommen Svensk.

[winny]

1209:an kommer från Jari men 808s som hänger i taket är från Kumla.

So back to the raster setup. Is there one setting (phase, size, convergence and so on) per input or how does it work? If I set up input five for the HD fury and one perticular resolution, will there be just one setting available for port five if I for example wanted to connect my popcorn hour there? Same question but different resolutions, like switching between 1080p60 and perhaps 1080p48?

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[Curt Palme]

The Barco has 38 memory locations that are resolution dependent. Also, a hidden trick is that there are two memory locations per input, on at least input 5. Press '5' to select input memory 1, and '95' for input memory 2. That's useful for different aspect ratios on the same resolution. All adjustments (phase, size, etc) are unique to each memory location.

I'd assume the 9 and 95 trick will also work for input 3, but I've never tried it.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Curt im glad its not just me that suffers repetitive post syndrome

[winny]

I heard you the first time

Yes, input five. I edited my post to correct this.

To see if I have got this correct:
So if I waste one setting on the port 1 NTSC, then there are 37 to go for different resolutions on port 5?
Also, could I for example use two identical resolutions/scan rates with two different setups on the same port, like normal NTSC and squeeze LD NTSC (signal looks identical to the projector input, picture does not) on the same port using the 91 trick?

[CasetheCorvetteman]

What are you using NTSC for at all? Is there no RGB on this source device? If not can you open it up and find RGB in there? Anything has got to be better than NTSC, even converting it to PAL....