CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[stridsvognen]

[tschaeikaei]

Ok, thanks.

[tschaeikaei]

Hello again..
after watching several hours of good movies, I have some more questions.
The pictures were taken projecting a black screen background and nothing else
at normal viewing settings (contrast 65, brightness 60)

First: I have a vertical line on the edge of the picture, is this the "marquee thing"
described here: https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=32865.html?


Second: The red tube does some strange flickering, that the other two do not.

Third: I have some (in my eyes minimal) convergence drift at powering up.
But I have no other projectors to compare with (my Barco G801s was far worse).
Is this normal or improvable?

Forth: I have done magnetics adjustment twice and improved the corner focus. But it's not as good as it could be,
or do you think that it is lens related? I use the HD8 Rev.B.
My camera is not the best, but in the middle of the picture I'd say focus is perfect.
First picture is taken at the middle of the screen, 2-4 on the edges.
Maybe someone with the same projector could take pictures or link them?






[/url]

Best regards, Julian

[stridsvognen]

I think it all sounds quite normal.

Only thing i think you need to work on is the noise in the red tube, try change the cables on the VIM with another tube, and see if it moves, if not, try change the Neck board with another tube, you might also start with reseating all boards.

The line is very normal, you might get a better result if you lower brightness, and use some gamma boost to the signal.

Convergence drift is also normal, and it will behave different depending if the projector is hanging or standing on the floor.

If it stable after 20 min or so, ill think its very normal.

expect it to be dependent on room temperature to.

[Nashou66]

Kurt is right.

However the Red tube it seams the G2 is set too high.

Lower the g2 til the raster disappears then up it one click back. then do the greyscale set up again as in Tim's site tech tips section.

Convergence drift can be helped in a few ways. Depending on how old the set is, a cap change. But what I found to help the best is to get the electronics to a stable operating temp quickly. And what i found is the best result is to use a high quality heat transfer thermal paste on the amps for the entire back plane. the quicker they transfer heat to the heat sink the better. You will notice a much hotter heat sink when using a better heat thermal compound.

And last if it still drifts too much a resistor change on the CVA to one that handle heat better.

Athanasios

[the big E]

I have noticed the same line on my marquee glad to see that's normal but I have also noticed a line at the bottom of the image with black or nothing showing(only with a signal)that recently cropped up

[the big E]

[tschaeikaei]

It seems to be gone now. I took the LVPS out cause a cable touched one of the fanblades.
Discovered a loose contact, fixed it and ta ta, Hannibal. No more strange lines on the red tube.
It really scares me, I don't think that I had ever found it, if this remarkable coincidence
(german: Zufall, don't know if the word fits) didn't happen.



The interest stays on the vertical line, that is not "stable". I can't get it visible now on the screen.
Some weeks ago it was far stronger and showed up in every dark movie scenes.
But after recalibrating the projector (magnetics setup, geometry setup, convergence) it's only visible looking into the tubes,
most on the blue (as it always was since I have the projector).

Red G2 is on 69 btw. And I did a proper grayscale setup but only using my eyes, without a meter.
But G2 is easily done without a meter.

[tschaeikaei]

Yes the line seems to be normal.
But I think it would be better to "remove" it, I'm afraid
that it could burn in.

Anyways, is there a good concept of completely (electronically) switching of the projector
after pressing the power button on the remote?
I don't like pulling the cable off every time after watching a movie.

[gjaky]

[stridsvognen]

[tschaeikaei]

I do not have any Moome card. The projector is stock, just did all setups.
For normal viewing, the line doesn't hurt me at all. So I think if there is no quick fix for this
(as seen here: https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=32865.html)
I will let it where it is.

[tschaeikaei]

Sadly, the lines (now visible on all three tubes) get stronger.
Watched a movie with much dark scenes and it showed up on the screen.
So if there is anyone who solved the problem (without crushing black levels or smearing
picture like I read in other topics)
..please tell me.
I think this is a problem almost every marquee has, so I'd be glad to here that there is a good solution for it.
The red tube did its flickering today again, so it was not the power supply causing it.
I reseated the boards and the red neckboard, pushed some connectors on the backboard and it is nearly gone.
But I think it will come again, like it does every time.

Best regards, Julian

[Nashou66]

You have to do the faint line mod. And on some PJ's it might cause elevated blacks on others it might not.

For the red flickering, look at the neck board closely especially at the solder points for the big orange resistors.
id they look a bit burned reflow the solder to them. it is a good practice to do so even if there is no discoloration of the traces going to them.

Athanasios

[stridsvognen]

I have to disagree on the line mod.. It will always elevate the black level.

The way it works is to make all the tube brighter than the line.

Its a calibration problem.

If you look into the tube when adjusting G2 level up and down, you will notice that there is many lines if you put the G2 level up, and if you lower the G2 level you can make the line go away.

Its not posible to run a 2.22 gamma and remove the line compleetly. You need to play with G2 levels, and gamma bost on your source to make the best compromise betwen the line and gamma setting.

[Nashou66]

Might be the software then in MY clm because i have said it many times my Longbows do not show it.

Perfect blacks. no faint line. and they are stock. I have done no modding to them except a cap replacement on my on PJ's LVPS.

And Gamma depends on screen and room. It NOT a set standard of 2.22 every situation needs a specific gamma.

Athanasios

[stridsvognen]

[Nashou66]

[stridsvognen]

[Nashou66]

yes. And I am not removing it. Also with the 03 Vim i don't see it on my long bows or with any other VIM i have tried.

The origin of the issue is the CLM. VDC may have fixed it in later software or CLM revisions, I don't know for a fact only an assumption. They have always had the practice of continuing the tech up dates on all parts even if the issue is resolved in case someone might use that part in another unit with out the latest updated fixes.

So like I said my PJ's do not have any elevated black issues with this Vim or any other Vim.

I did have other issues tho related to Astig amp and CMM which i had to fix on my own with Scotts help on the CMM.

Regarding the CMM it gave me about 4 varying width vertical bright lines in bright scenes . I had to make a change in the Contrast Correction line from that board to fix it.