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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:03 am Post subject: Sony 1252Q |
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I remember reading about a mod here somewhere so that the red and blue tubes could be moved farther. I'm trying to use a 5 by 9 screen. As it sits they just don't move close enough to the green.
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:05 am Post subject: |
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You need the small lens spacers
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rosenbush
Joined: 14 May 2010
Posts: 94
Location: Brownsville Texas
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ecrabb
Forum Moderator
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah
TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010
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| Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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| AnalogRocks wrote: | | You need the small lens spacers |
Technically, it's the CRT spacers he needs. Then, the lens spacers to re-focus side-to-side.
Hardly anybody has them anymore, so you can use bolts as in the PDF rosebush posted, or you can use some stiff springs and washers along with the nuts to tension and shim the CRT. All you're doing is toeing the red and blue tubes further to the inside to get the images centered and roughly aligned on the screen when the image is centered on the tube faces and registration is set to 127.
When you shim the lenses in, you'll also screw up focus if you don't have the "S" lens spacers. So, use anything to shim the lenses out on the opposite side. When I set up a buddy's 1252 on an 84" wide screen a few years ago, I just used a washer or two. It's usually just a mm or two, depending on what lens spacers are already in your machine. You'll have to throw up a test pattern and experiment to find just the right gap. It could be a washer and a piece of paper, or a washer and three pieces of paper.
Cheers,
SC
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 4:11 am Post subject: |
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2.1.3 Says use scotch tape on the front of the faces for marking centre. What to use to clean after and remove glue remnants from the tape?
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 6:36 am Post subject: |
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Use the blue stuff that guarantees removal for up to 20 something days.
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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Pressing "test" or any of the cutoff buttons I get "not applicable" on red and green, nothing on blue.
Do I have to get it into a setup mode first?
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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ecrabb
Forum Moderator
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah
TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010
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| Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, you have to be in service man mode for those functions to work.
Holding down the 'test' button continuously until 'Do you want to enter the serviceman mode?' pops up.
Spend a little time with the install manual - the Sony 12xx manual is pretty good.
SC
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 12:17 am Post subject: |
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I'm wading through the manual and I printed Wes Hill's advice. Very helpful. I have the lenses off and I'm working on centering the image on the face of the CRT using the crosshairs. Page 69 of the manual says do not use the zone adjustment on green as far as possible. Step 1 starts out "press the zone key"
Can't I shift the whole image together as one piece?
(scratching head)
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:05 am Post subject: |
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Yes, use the middle zone as much as you want (zone 1) to shift the raster on the tube face. I would reset all other zones to 128, and carefully use the other adjustments to the best of their abi.lity before using the zone adjustments.
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:25 am Post subject: |
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So "zone" at the centre translates to "shift" and will move the edges also?
Oh, and thanks for the 128. Starting points are good to know.
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 4:02 am Post subject: |
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Correct. the R and B shift buttons at the top of the remote are 'fine' adjustments to compensate for slight drift. Set those at 128 also, and use the zone 1 for coarse shift, to get the R and B over the green in the middle of the raster.
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MrCRTing
Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 35
Location: Brighton UK
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| Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:37 pm Post subject: Re: Sony 1252Q |
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| 416ray4538 wrote: | | I remember reading about a mod here somewhere so that the red and blue tubes could be moved farther. I'm trying to use a 5 by 9 screen. As it sits they just don't move close enough to the green. |
Hi
Ideally you want to keep the images / raster's centred on the tube face not shifted right over to the left on blue and right on red, this keeps you nicely in the best area.
Using just electronic adjustment means its highly possible to run out of adjustment before you get any where near converging over green correctly.
I would centre the cross hair test pattern as bang on centre as you can on all 3 tubes with lenses off, stick lenses on and see where the vertical lines of cross hairs are, then remove red and blue lenses, undo CRT spacer bolts and pack out the CRT spacers far left on blue and far right on red studs put lenses back on and check until the cross hair are almost in alignment over the green give or take an inch or so depending on the size of your screen, repeat these steps as many times as necessary to get you close as possible, then you can use the electronic adjustment to tweak the final stage bit giving you plenty of adjustment.
Use small washers between the tube mounting plate (the black surround that's part of the CRT with coolant in it) and the original CRT spacers, only need the washers on top and bottom of extreme left for blue and extreme right for red tread studs, that's how I did my 1271QM mine came with the 120 inch medium spacers and I am using mine at a short throw distance so needed to pack out the CRT spacers some more as electronic adjustment ran out and I was no where near, adjust lens spacers for correct size or use custom spacers.
Get a couple of different thicknesses of washers with the right size holes so they don't move around and make sure you put the same amount and or thickness on the 2 studs ells the tube will not sit well and you could damage the mounting holes / studs.
Just watch the tube base boards (on end of crt neck) don't end up touching the aluminium inside the little boxes they are housed in, remove the 2 ali covers held on with 2 screws each (there are some black earthing wires too) and check the boards don't touch ells the tube pins may get bent, voltages my arc or worse break the tube if adjusted too far.
You may find if using original lens spacers that the corners seem out of focus at short throw distance and centre is perfect so you may need to devise your own lens spacer, again washers are good here ! hold them in place with double sided sticky tape (o:
Hope this helps
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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I have removed the spacers from red and blue and added bolts and locknuts so that the adjustment is continuous. The plan is to centre the crosshairs and line them up with the electronic adjustments at neutral. I have also added bolts and locknuts to the lens mountings so that flapping adjustment is possible.
Thanks for the warning about the back of the tubes.
The pj was a gift from a customer and I just bought a 9500 from Curt so now 2 pjs
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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| 416ray4538 wrote: | I have removed the spacers from red and blue and added bolts and locknuts so that the adjustment is continuous. The plan is to centre the crosshairs and line them up with the electronic adjustments at neutral. I have also added bolts and locknuts to the lens mountings so that flapping adjustment is possible.
Thanks for the warning about the back of the tubes.
The pj was a gift from a customer and I just bought a 9500 from Curt so now 2 pjs |
Didn't you have an Ampro?
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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Ampro4600
Red tube broken pin
Bought a red tube from Curt
Red tube wouldn't light up in my pj
Sent it back to Curt. Checked out OK
Curt sent it back to me. Still wouldn't light up. Then the display started showing gibberish. Curt suggested I upgrade to the 9500. In the meantime a customer gave me the 1252
Gave Curt the blue and green from the Ampro and kept the lenses to use on the marquee
Need some rainy days to get caught up
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 12:53 am Post subject: |
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Vertical adjusted easy (green). I'm not seeing the horizontal moving. I get 4 readouts:
Hf 128
Hc 128
Vf 128
Vc 128
There doesn't seem to be a reference to these in the manual.
The manual covers 1272/1252
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 1:05 am Post subject: |
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Duh
f fine
c coarse
How do i switch between?
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 1:34 am Post subject: |
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push the button a second time?
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Quick touch adjusts f. Holding down adjusts c. With the position adjustments at 128 the crosshairs are very close to measured centre. Size adjustments max out with about 1/2 inch to spare. Not much to gain and I assume that trying to improve on the size would open a nasty can of worms for very little benefit.
So is leaving the size adjustments at max stressful ?
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When the first clock was invented, how did they know what time to set it to?
No point being pessimistic; it probably would't work anyway.
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