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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:11 am Post subject: |
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I flipped the cap and ran the wires to it. I could only solder it from the top after I ripped a bottom pad off.
For the rest I just bent the leads straight from the bottom and desoldered them like regular caps. Didn't seem to have any issues with it.
Edit:
Well the set fires up. No change though. Menus are all garbled and no actual video. Guess I'll move on to the next board.
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:21 am Post subject: |
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You havent tested it yet 
The boards are not a single layer design and desoldering can apparently lead to shorts in the layers. I would never risk going against the advice from Macgyver or Curt in these such instances, they both have lifetimes of experience in the field and dont make these suggestions based on a whim 
Do the system and wave boards, but dont desolder any more, do it the way its been suggested.
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:39 am Post subject: |
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Wouldn't the layers for any given solder pad be shorted already? Like, since their purpose is to connect a component to one or several layers that converge at that pad...but if you say so.
The reason I didn't do is as suggested as mainly because I couldn't get my tools to the legs of the caps due to the surrounding components. And is it really okay to just pull them off? Sounds kinda scary.
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Ask Macgyver or Curt
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Zolzar
Joined: 26 Jun 2009
Posts: 252
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 3:53 pm Post subject: |
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Pull them off. Yes it can seem a little barbaric but it is the best way to change them out. 300 caps later my PG is working very well. And yes....some of the caps can be very difficult to replace. You may need to consider the order in which you replace them on a given board so you don't block any caps you need to get to.
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Tinman
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1326
Location: Carson City Nevada
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Change the caps on the system board if you haven't yet. Scrambled menus are often caused there.
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CxTurbo
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Tinman wrote: | | Change the caps on the system board if you haven't yet. Scrambled menus are often caused there. |
+1
I had the same problem with my PG and after re-capping the system board it cleared up just as Tinman suggests.
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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Alright I'll do the wave, system, control, etc boards in one go.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Marcel_D wrote: | | Alright I'll do the wave, system, control, etc boards in one go. |
No. Just do the system board and then test.
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:59 am Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: | | Marcel_D wrote: | | Alright I'll do the wave, system, control, etc boards in one go. |
No. Just do the system board and then test. |
Yes that makes sense.
Alright I counted another 170 bad caps on all the...removable boards. Video out, system, wave, control, point, gain control. They will be here next week. Couple real rotten looking nichicons on the video board. I'll do the system first and see what happens.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 11:05 am Post subject: |
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I know how you feel as I have a 10pg that needs the gain board redone(its the only board between the rgb and the output board for the tubes) as I get no video or grids on the green tube
I only have two boards left to do(s video/video decoder and the gain board)its just finding time to do them but I may see if curt has any boards
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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Actually the most frustrating thing about this so far is that I dropped a screw into the set when I started this and haven't been able to find it since. 
It didn't even make a sound when it went in, and I've practically shaken the projector over my head with no luck. Pretty sure I have to take out the red and green tubes at this point and remove some more parts to find it...
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joatmon
Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Marcel_D wrote: | Actually the most frustrating thing about this so far is that I dropped a screw into the set when I started this and haven't been able to find it since.
It didn't even make a sound when it went in, and I've practically shaken the projector over my head with no luck. Pretty sure I have to take out the red and green tubes at this point and remove some more parts to find it... |
Check around the magnetics on the tubes. You may need to use a small mirror.
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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| joatmon wrote: | | Marcel_D wrote: | Actually the most frustrating thing about this so far is that I dropped a screw into the set when I started this and haven't been able to find it since.
It didn't even make a sound when it went in, and I've practically shaken the projector over my head with no luck. Pretty sure I have to take out the red and green tubes at this point and remove some more parts to find it... |
Check around the magnetics on the tubes. You may need to use a small mirror. |
OH MY GOD thank you! It was hiding underneath the green tube on the magnetic part. I didn't even know...
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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You may need to pull the tubes to bleed them anyway, but get it working properly first
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 7:49 am Post subject: |
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Well I recapped the system board using the suggested method. No change I'm afraid.
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gjaky
Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 2802
Location: Budapest, Hungary
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:19 am Post subject: |
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Do you have the service manual for that projector? This is about time to place in duty your oscilloscope! You have plenty things to measure in order to find out what is the problem.
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:33 am Post subject: |
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I sure do. I'll start with the flowchart in one of these diagnostic manuals I have. See where it takes me.
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gjaky
Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 2802
Location: Budapest, Hungary
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:53 am Post subject: |
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That is for beginners! 
I would check the deflection board according to the service manual where the adjustments of that boards is described, so you can find out if the deflection board locks well on the input's sync, this is important for a stable picture, then you should follow the signal path of the input through the 'Gain ctl' and 'Video out' boards. A bit trickey to measure on the Video out board while it is in use, but solder some flying wires to the important points (where picture muting and input switching happens) and you can perform the measurements. If the picutre is muted somewhy you can go on finding the source where is it coming etc.
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projectors in the past : NEC 6-9PG xtra, Electrohome Marquee 6-7500, NEC XG 1351 LC ( with super modified Electrohome VNB neckboard !!!)
current: VDC Marquee 9500LC
The MOD: VNB-DB, VIM-DB
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Marcel_D
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 9:01 am Post subject: |
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Buuut I am a beginner to CRT projectors. I used to dread the day I had to work on it, but when I bought it my electronics experience was very low indeed. Almost non existent. I've improved a lot since then...
Alright DEF board first. But here's another clue for you detectives. The set turns itself off after like, less than a minute of being powered up. It is not happy.
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