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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 5:03 am Post subject: |
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Rosp if you do decide to cut the set as is and put a LCD/dlp projector in it I have one that I ain't using let me know
Case I forgot about the mounting hardware (silly me) for the tubes not that it can be done just have to be careful(I replaced the red tube in my samsung tv but it took me a while(it was my first time but I got it done and in the set with no problem) still need to get the convergnce amp board for that set
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crt king of black
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weshay
Joined: 17 May 2013
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 5:11 am Post subject: |
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This is interesting as I have done this kind modification to a 50" Mazzan machine.
The problem we encounter is a patting on the screen, I think because of the color wheel in the DLP projector we used.
The other thing is the need for a resolution converter between the game and the VGA in on the projector. Mazzan has 24K output and most projectors are 32K VGA or higher. We had some 15K~24K to VGA converter boards on hand that did a good job of up scaling the Mazzan output.
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banzairun
Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 129
Location: NJ
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| Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:38 am Post subject: |
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One way or another, it will come out of the cabinet.
I've had them out of Alpine Racer and Crisis Zone 50" before. They stuck them in there, they can come out.
Just bust the entire monitor up to get it out the cabinet & modify the shelf if you have to. Any way you cut it, replacing the set with another 50" 4:3 will be the easiest option and will only take you a short amount of time. Or just find another 50" Hitachi that is identical/from the same era you can just swap all the guts over.
If you do a tube swap: even among Hitachi sets, most don't seem to have that type of HV connectors (every arcade game w/ Hitachi I've had uses that type, though). When they're different, just swap the splitter connector end.. it only takes a minute with a soldering iron. Don't swap the anode end!
Also, Toshiba and Hitachi are both good tube donor sets for each other. 180D or just about any P16 tubes from any RPTV made up until 2002 will work. After 2002-3, the larger sets all went to EM focus, those tubes don't work. Mits sets usually seem to have VT07 tubes with anodes on the side, often with no splitter block -- not good donors for anything other than Mits sets.
Don't replace it with a digital! ..and as was said earlier, if you do any sort of hacking with a different projector, you'd need to keep the original LC chambers & lenses for the short throw. Not worth the effort. Even 61"+ RPTVs that I junk for the tubes need to have the C-elements or LC chambers swapped out; they're not interchangeable.
Weshay: you hacked a DLP projector? or was it an a RPTV into a Mazan Flash Of The Blade's original monitor cabinet? a 50" monitor almost looks small on that game; that game has a huge footprint. I've never had problems with the $30 24k to 31k adapter boards.
I've very rarely seen anything hacked into a projection arcade monitor that looked acceptable, other than a 42" LCD with proper masking that Happ Controls sells as a kit for $1k(!). It's not horrible with single player games, but a retubed projector will be brighter, will probably last longer, and (if you do it right) should only cost you about $0-$20 and a few hours of your time. It's the easy route and the best option.
Case: spill the beans, whatca got 
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 11:41 am Post subject: |
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Will PM you mate 
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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| banzairun wrote: | One way or another, it will come out of the cabinet.
I've had them out of Alpine Racer and Crisis Zone 50" before. They stuck them in there, they can come out.
Just bust the entire monitor up to get it out the cabinet & modify the shelf if you have to. Any way you cut it, replacing the set with another 50" 4:3 will be the easiest option and will only take you a short amount of time. Or just find another 50" Hitachi that is identical/from the same era you can just swap all the guts over.
If you do a tube swap: even among Hitachi sets, most don't seem to have that type of HV connectors (every arcade game w/ Hitachi I've had uses that type, though). When they're different, just swap the splitter connector end.. it only takes a minute with a soldering iron. Don't swap the anode end!
Also, Toshiba and Hitachi are both good tube donor sets for each other. 180D or just about any P16 tubes from any RPTV made up until 2002 will work. After 2002-3, the larger sets all went to EM focus, those tubes don't work. Mits sets usually seem to have VT07 tubes with anodes on the side, often with no splitter block -- not good donors for anything other than Mits sets.
Don't replace it with a digital! ..and as was said earlier, if you do any sort of hacking with a different projector, you'd need to keep the original LC chambers & lenses for the short throw. Not worth the effort. Even 61"+ RPTVs that I junk for the tubes need to have the C-elements or LC chambers swapped out; they're not interchangeable.
Weshay: you hacked a DLP projector? or was it an a RPTV into a Mazan Flash Of The Blade's original monitor cabinet? a 50" monitor almost looks small on that game; that game has a huge footprint. I've never had problems with the $30 24k to 31k adapter boards.
I've very rarely seen anything hacked into a projection arcade monitor that looked acceptable, other than a 42" LCD with proper masking that Happ Controls sells as a kit for $1k(!). It's not horrible with single player games, but a retubed projector will be brighter, will probably last longer, and (if you do it right) should only cost you about $0-$20 and a few hours of your time. It's the easy route and the best option.
Case: spill the beans, whatca got |
I agree with retubing the set as a dlp or LCD projector would be a blaa result
But keeping the old tube hardware is a must as the doner tube may not have the same hardware I got a Panasonic tube the had Mitsubishi hardware and put my samsung hardware on it(same size tube and type)
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crt king of black
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 9:28 pm Post subject: |
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Seems loads of the later half of 90s sets used P16s of some sort.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Seems loads of the later half of 90s sets used P16s of some sort. |
I know it was bars to get ahold of a red tube for my samsung that matched on the numbers which ironacly is a Panasonic p16 tube
The seller had five of the blue and green tubes but I got the last red tube he had
I did see a samsung tv at a thrift store I was going to buy it if anything for the tubes(but didn't know if the set worked so I couldn't test to see if the tubes had burn in of not) the set was dirt cheap though I wish I had got it
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banzairun
Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 129
Location: NJ
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| Posted: Sat May 18, 2013 12:46 am Post subject: |
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| the big E wrote: | | CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Seems loads of the later half of 90s sets used P16s of some sort. |
I know it was bars to get ahold of a red tube for my samsung that matched on the numbers which ironacly is a Panasonic p16 tube
The seller had five of the blue and green tubes but I got the last red tube he had
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That's weird.. or not, considering serviceman weren't swapping as many reds out either..
I've junked maybe 20 Toshiba & Hitachi sets for the tubes over the last couple weeks, I think I only ran across 2 that had matching numbers.
The Toshiba & Hitachi 50" sets for the Sega games are all ES focus, and just about any 180D- or P16 tube I've ran across will work. The original tubes were LMN10s, which are a longer-neck, but all the short tubes work great and focus just as well. There are 8 different types of tubes in those 8 monitors now, and it looks great..
P16LXQ10, LVW10, LTX10 wouldn't work, but every other P16Lxx tube I've found works. No P16Mxx tubes I've seen seem to work in ES focus sets, but they're only found in the 2003+ sets anyway.
Why the hell are there so many P16 types when they're basically the same? I realize its basically all how the grids are set up and what pins G1 goes to, etc, but wtf. I junked some sets with the same model & year, and they'll use different tubes. Almost seems like it was just a ruse to get unknowing servicemen to stock more expensive parts when they switched from the 180D part #s.
Anybody have any insight into the numbering scheme, so I'd know which tubes wouldn't work for me? or which might focus better, etc..
moral of the story: for these RPTVs, just try any tubes out. if it's a P16 or 180D, it'll probably work. Just start with your G2 all the way down. Those tubes I mentioned above, for me, would internally arc when G2 was brought up to just below where it needed to be, and they wouldn't focus in my sets. No harm; just unusable for me.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sat May 18, 2013 2:06 am Post subject: |
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| banzairun wrote: | | the big E wrote: | | CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Seems loads of the later half of 90s sets used P16s of some sort. |
I know it was bars to get ahold of a red tube for my samsung that matched on the numbers which ironacly is a Panasonic p16 tube
The seller had five of the blue and green tubes but I got the last red tube he had
|
That's weird.. or not, considering serviceman weren't swapping as many reds out either..
I've junked maybe 20 Toshiba & Hitachi sets for the tubes over the last couple weeks, I think I only ran across 2 that had matching numbers.
The Toshiba & Hitachi 50" sets for the Sega games are all ES focus, and just about any 180D- or P16 tube I've ran across will work. The original tubes were LMN10s, which are a longer-neck, but all the short tubes work great and focus just as well. There are 8 different types of tubes in those 8 monitors now, and it looks great..
P16LXQ10, LVW10, LTX10 wouldn't work, but every other P16Lxx tube I've found works. No P16Mxx tubes I've seen seem to work in ES focus sets, but they're only found in the 2003+ sets anyway.
Why the hell are there so many P16 types when they're basically the same? I realize its basically all how the grids are set up and what pins G1 goes to, etc, but wtf. I junked some sets with the same model & year, and they'll use different tubes. Almost seems like it was just a ruse to get unknowing servicemen to stock more expensive parts when they switched from the 180D part #s.
Anybody have any insight into the numbering scheme, so I'd know which tubes wouldn't work for me? or which might focus better, etc..
moral of the story: for these RPTVs, just try any tubes out. if it's a P16 or 180D, it'll probably work. Just start with your G2 all the way down. Those tubes I mentioned above, for me, would internally arc when G2 was brought up to just below where it needed to be, and they wouldn't focus in my sets. No harm; just unusable for me. |
i have a mint(never used) blue tube it is a video display corp that i pulled from a set i had back of this if you want it make me a offer it may help you get the set working
the tv was a late 80s model so it should work if anybody can look up the number of it for me i will post it(the tube that is)
the only difference is the anode feed(would have to see the mounting hardware to see if it would just drop in or you would need to reuse the old hardware)
it was from a lxi(rebadged phillips) tv i pulled the tubes when i couldn't get the part i needed(wish i kept all three tubes now)
it has the yoke on it also(not sure if yours is different of not(need pics)
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crt king of black
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weshay
Joined: 17 May 2013
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Mon May 20, 2013 12:16 am Post subject: |
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| banzairun wrote: |
Weshay: you hacked a DLP projector? or was it an a RPTV into a Mazan Flash Of The Blade's original monitor cabinet? a 50" monitor almost looks small on that game; that game has a huge footprint. I've never had problems with the $30 24k to 31k adapter boards.
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Is the original cabinet using DLP onto original Screen, Screen is not that big as most of the bulk is taken up with the blade sensor arch.
Try upload picture again....
| Description: |
| Even with a very short trough projector it ends up way back in the cabinet to get the correct focal length |
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| Filesize: |
47.44 KB |
| Viewed: |
7753 Time(s) |
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| Description: |
| DLP color wheel pattering is very visible in full white or large color patches. |
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| Filesize: |
56.98 KB |
| Viewed: |
7753 Time(s) |
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:12 am Post subject: |
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| weshay wrote: | | banzairun wrote: |
Weshay: you hacked a DLP projector? or was it an a RPTV into a Mazan Flash Of The Blade's original monitor cabinet? a 50" monitor almost looks small on that game; that game has a huge footprint. I've never had problems with the $30 24k to 31k adapter boards.
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Is the original cabinet using DLP onto original Screen, Screen is not that big as most of the bulk is taken up with the blade sensor arch.
Try upload picture again.... |
this is another reason i didn't gut the samsung tv i have to go with a digital projector in the cabinet
also the bulbs in a digital don't last long enough(my 2 cents) even though i have a dlp tv that has a bulb pushing close to 6k hours and hasn't been replaced(yes i have been in the service menu since that is the only place they put the hour counter on tvs like that)
to the op offer still stands on the blue tube if you want it(mint and never used)it should work in your set
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crt king of black
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:20 am Post subject: |
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| banzairun wrote: | | the big E wrote: | | CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Seems loads of the later half of 90s sets used P16s of some sort. |
I know it was bars to get ahold of a red tube for my samsung that matched on the numbers which ironacly is a Panasonic p16 tube
The seller had five of the blue and green tubes but I got the last red tube he had
|
That's weird.. or not, considering serviceman weren't swapping as many reds out either..
I've junked maybe 20 Toshiba & Hitachi sets for the tubes over the last couple weeks, I think I only ran across 2 that had matching numbers.
The Toshiba & Hitachi 50" sets for the Sega games are all ES focus, and just about any 180D- or P16 tube I've ran across will work. The original tubes were LMN10s, which are a longer-neck, but all the short tubes work great and focus just as well. There are 8 different types of tubes in those 8 monitors now, and it looks great..
P16LXQ10, LVW10, LTX10 wouldn't work, but every other P16Lxx tube I've found works. No P16Mxx tubes I've seen seem to work in ES focus sets, but they're only found in the 2003+ sets anyway.
Why the hell are there so many P16 types when they're basically the same? I realize its basically all how the grids are set up and what pins G1 goes to, etc, but wtf. I junked some sets with the same model & year, and they'll use different tubes. Almost seems like it was just a ruse to get unknowing servicemen to stock more expensive parts when they switched from the 180D part #s.
Anybody have any insight into the numbering scheme, so I'd know which tubes wouldn't work for me? or which might focus better, etc..
moral of the story: for these RPTVs, just try any tubes out. if it's a P16 or 180D, it'll probably work. Just start with your G2 all the way down. Those tubes I mentioned above, for me, would internally arc when G2 was brought up to just below where it needed to be, and they wouldn't focus in my sets. No harm; just unusable for me. |
i was surprised to even get ahold of the red tube that i have(panasonic P16LSG03RJA) but the seller has four of both the green and blue of this same tube number(last three i think are the color green is HKA blue is BMB on my tubes)
but i think i figured out what killed the red tube the convergence amp board failed(it worked one time since i got it and hasn't since)
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