CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[thewolfman]

I knew there was something that was going to break. Tonight it did. Starting from last week I noticed that when I turned it on it took some 10 seconds for it to stabilize so picture won’t flicker. Up until then the picture was solid right away when turning it on. And today while watching a movie it half turned itself off and on again. It “ticks” every 1 second right under red bulb so gather it’s a faulty high voltage power supply?

So I when I turn it on it turns itself on and off again every 1 second. Easy fix? I shot a video of it but think you guys already know what has happened. Ripping it out and clean it from dust must be the first thing I do.

[Tim in Phoenix]

Hello

It could also be an anode lead arcing. Locate the gray high voltage splitter block on top of the green tube, and try undoing each tube wire one at a time. If on a ceiling let the splitter block hang down several inches, if on the floor isolate it with three inches of foam rubber or bubble wrap. Do not touch anything while the set is running, 35000 volts can jump two inches or more.


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[thewolfman]

[thewolfman]

Just to make things clear. All three lamps go on and off every 1 second. I tried it few times now and now Red wont light up as much, but it still ticks and show a faint light. Toasted I’ll bet.

[Tim in Phoenix]

Hello

There are four red wires plugged into the splitter; three of them go one to each tube, you want to remove high voltage from one tube at a time. Do NOT undo the one from the power supply.


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[Nashou66]

Also Tim forgets to mention remove them while the PJ is off please!!!!




Nashou

[thewolfman]

[Curt Palme]

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY>>> DO NOT UNPLUG THE ONE RED HV LEAD THAT GOES UNDER THE CHASSIS TO THE HV POWER SUPPLY!

Want a smoke and spark show... disconnect that one and leave it lying loose on top of the chassis.


(only disconnect the HV leads going to the tubes one at a time.

Also, the CRT sockets/neck boards can also cause this flashing. Also rare, but possible.

You'll need to disconnect the black wiring harness going to each CRT socket/board to the motherboard under it. That will disconnect the CRT socket from the set, and will eliminate it/them as a suspect. If it still flashes, then yes, I'd say your HVPS is bad.

[Curt Palme]

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY>>> DO NOT UNPLUG THE ONE RED HV LEAD THAT GOES UNDER THE CHASSIS TO THE HV POWER SUPPLY!

Want a smoke and spark show... disconnect that one and leave it lying loose on top of the chassis.


(only disconnect the HV leads going to the tubes one at a time.

Also, the CRT sockets/neck boards can also cause this flashing. Also rare, but possible.

You'll need to disconnect the black wiring harness going to each CRT socket/board to the motherboard under it. That will disconnect the CRT socket from the set, and will eliminate it/them as a suspect. If it still flashes, then yes, I'd say your HVPS is bad.

[thewolfman]

[thewolfman]

Also, the CRT sockets/neck boards can also cause this flashing. Also rare, but possible.

You'll need to disconnect the black wiring harness going to each CRT socket/board to the motherboard under it. That will disconnect the CRT socket from the set, and will eliminate it/them as a suspect. If it still flashes, then yes, I'd say your HVPS is bad.[/quote]

I have only tested to remove one lead at a time but the ticking is still there. I removed the HVPS and had a look inside and white burn marks is clearly visible. That said, do I really need to make the black harness testing also?

Does anyone have a spare HVPS and willing to sell one? It’s a 34KV/4.2mA.. Model: PTV34P143X1997

[Curt Palme]

I've got stock. PM me. THat white stuff isn't arcing, that's normal. The fault will be within the sealed area, you won't see the arcing from the outside of the unit.

[Curt Palme]

I've got stock. PM me. THat white stuff isn't arcing, that's normal. The fault will be within the sealed area, you won't see the arcing from the outside of the unit.

[thewolfman]

[thewolfman]

Dear diary.

It's difficult being without my beloved pj. My paws are sweaty. I shake. My lips are shivering and my eyes are watery. Oh, Lord. What can I do for you to stop pissing on me? Bastard.

[Nashou66]

[thewolfman]

It will be up and running again.

But you said your HVPS is a 34kv? that might be why. the 9500LC should have a 34.9KV, the 9 inch lenses prefer the extra 900 volts.

Nashou[/quote]

Yeah, I read about that. So I decided with the 34.9 version and will wait a while longer to get one. And that'll teach the man upstairs who’s boss to.

[thewolfman]

The bitch fired right up. I love that about her when she does that. It’s all a matter of voltage! - as Gene Hackman once said about horses. Oh, yeah, she up there running now. Beautiful sight I tell ya.

Thanks for all the advice from you all. I'll buy more stuff from you as time goes by, you know that.

[Curt Palme]

[Curt Palme]

[Nashou66]

[thewolfman]

That white stuff on the card is dried in glycol? Or are you saying that I need a beer to control my hands from shaking? Maybe both?
All kidding aside, bellows are covered in pearls of sweat. But difficult to see as you know.. I wiped it off with my finger and stayed absolutely dry for weeks. I think. Now the side covers are back on so can't see any longer.

Maybe I should I wait until I do have a blue and a red spare along with the green I already have, and change all 3 with new bellows then.. Taking it down and up again 2 times feels so god damn boring and can't make myself to do it.

[Curt Palme]

No, I was kidding, You said the set was pissing on you.

Sweaty bellows are fine, if it's ceiling mounted you'll never hurt the electronics anyway if one leaks.

[Curt Palme]

No, I was kidding, You said the set was pissing on you.

Sweaty bellows are fine, if it's ceiling mounted you'll never hurt the electronics anyway if one leaks.