CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[gjaky]

[Zolzar]

I'm happy to report that so far I have changed all the caps on the Deflection, Wave, System , and Point boards and the projector is working well. I found at least 20 leaking caps between these four boards. I was actually surprised to find so many. Unfortunately I missed a few caps in my order so a few were not changed. Mostly the bipolars. No big deal as I have notes and I will order and replace them once I've been through round one with this machine and have the total count. I'll hit the iron in the morning. The convergence boards are next. Not too many caps on those so it should be easy....although I noticed I'm missing a 50V2000uF cap already.

John

[overclkr]

This.........thread........is.........now.........useless........without.........SCREENSHOTS.

[Zolzar]

Here is the screen shot of the PG10 so far.

[rtart]

Nice to see I have company with my 10PG. Rare as hen's teeth, but throws an amazing picture.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

[gjaky]

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Sounds about right. Static is zero on most of my settings.

The order i do it when i start goes something like this ( assuming the machine is allready on the ceiling ready to start setup ) :

Lens flapping settings, lens focus.

PHASE
Rough Keystone, Amplitude and raster centering on green with image from a source

Astig rings
check image is centered
electronic astig ( edges then corners )
Set electronic center focus to -10 then adjust focus pots
Electronic focus ( center which should be spot on, edges, corners )

Raster shift, center image within raster and raster centered on tube face
position check of projector with green image centered
mechanical alignment of red and blue but dont tighten up
Rough horizontal linearity of red and blue
Raster center red and blue again ( cause it moves with linearity )
check and adjust mechanical alignment of red and blue and tighten, then check lens focus.

At this point, it should all be pointing pretty much perfectly at the screen center, and the 3 rasters should be spot on tube face center with the source image centered on both the tube face and the screen, and linearity should be so close it wont matter too much if you have to adjust it. Everything should be tight and mechanically not moved again, covers all put back on.


CHECK PHASE
Tilt / skew, then bow and center line distortion
Rough keystone, amplitude, linearity and pin cushion
Recheck Tilt / skew, bow and line distortion
Keystone
Key-balance
Aplitude
Linearity ( should be almost nothing on green anyway )
Pincushion
Pin-balance

STORE

Green should now be perfect, and if its not and you simply cant get it perfect due to surface imperfections, use POINT ( RGB POINT ).

With red and blue they should be pretty much dead centerbut check static, then do them in the same order as green was done above. Its dead easy, cause its basically the same for each colour. Then STORE and save that to the DEFAULT, so you can use it when you start any other inputs, which youll start off with adjusting PHASE, then check the rest.

I typed that up in a bit of a rush, so anyone sees ive missed something or put it in a questionable order, speak up!

[gjaky]

But how do you manage to get the red static convergence without electronic correction, because the metal frame around the deflection board affects the red convergence (deflection board open vs. closed) therefore centering magnets needs to be corrected electrically.

now I checked the step through manager on the NEC, it says:
1. signal entry
2.focus
3.alignment
4.convergence
5.white balance
6.position
7.static
8.picture

[CasetheCorvetteman]

[gjaky]

There is no raster centering menu on Xtra, it still uses manual magnets, however the frame around the DEF board is made from aluminium, and has less effect on convergence, than on a PG plain. Of course I tried to compensate that with the magnets, but if you just close the def board it not gets in it's place because of the screws so I should screw them in and out all time for ultimate perfection, lately I don't care to use static convergence until it is in +/-5% range or so, that is maybe a quarter testpattern line thickness.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Ive only seen one XTRA, and i was sure it had a menu for it simular to the XG. Could be wrong there, i did also check out two XGs that day. Is there a menu called Ref Adjust?

[gjaky]

I've gone through on 3 xtras, and none of them had, however they were mid '95 early '96 models, but the 6PG xtra was in production until '98, I think there were a refined version of PG xtra, that had the white collar HD144 lenses, maybe they had that menu, note the last PG xtra was manufactured after the release of the XG 2 series!

[CasetheCorvetteman]

This was a 9 XTRA, ill have to see if i can find out next time im there. Its never been in service so its never been set up, only turned on to see hour meter.

[Zolzar]

Should I skip recapping the V4-DEC board since it handles the composit and S video which I will not be using? More than half if the caps on this board are leaking. This is the worst board so far. It's amazing how many caps were leaking in this machine, most of which were not obvious until they were removed.

Almost done. I finished up the video output board this afternoon and now the video noise I had in the blue is cleared up. I'm running low on caps which is a good thing. I still have to order a bunch of non-polarized caps but that will be a small project in comparison to the whole.

John

[freidich]

@Case

I was bored and reading this thread and stumbled upon your excellent guide for setting up XG's, thanks! Will be doing that after I mount my new screen.

[gjaky]

[Zolzar]

Excellent....thanks!

[CasetheCorvetteman]

[Zolzar]

How about the Rubycon power supply under the tubes? Should I start replacing any of these caps? Some of these look as if they are application specific. I have to say the service manual parts list did not cover any of the parts in here. I have a feeling I should leave this al