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Kal's basement Home Theatre/Bar/Brewery build 2.0
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kal
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:54 pm    Post subject:

dvh99 wrote:

one thing i would have done different is take a combined fireplace as can be seen in the following link, i really like the sound of wood burning Cool .

http://www.kombifire.nl/

That's a beautiful fireplace! I do like the smell and sound of a real wood fireplace. In use however I imagine it would be somewhat dirty and lots of work to switch between the two types. I've owned both (we had a wood burning fireplace at the old house) and they're very dirty/messy to clean.

The main reason we chose the biofuel fireplace however is so that we didn't have to exhaust outside. There were some concerns/difficulties with the venting from down low in the basement because of that layout and also because it woudl put a hot exhaust outside right where we'd probably eventually have a backyard deck.

Not having planned the backyard/deck yet, we didn't want to limit what we could do. The fireplace exhaust is almost exactly in the middle of the back wall of the house, most likely exactly where a deck would be.

Kal

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dvh99



Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 1:57 am    Post subject:

you could of course have considered having the vent to stick out 3 meters out of the deck so it wouldn`t have bothered you.

the period when you are sitting outside would likely be the period when you are not burning wood inside unless you have planned to make a "serre" outside (don`t know the english word for that).

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kal
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 1:19 pm    Post subject:

dvh99 wrote:
you could of course have considered having the vent to stick out 3 meters out of the deck so it wouldn`t have bothered you.

the period when you are sitting outside would likely be the period when you are not burning wood inside unless you have planned to make a "serre" outside (don`t know the english word for that).

I'm no sure I follow. Our deck will likely extend from the house outwards into the yard. The vent needs to be in the near the ground (below the first floor) otherwise we'd have to have a bump out inside or outside the house to accomodate the vent pipe in order to put it higher. It's not about when we'd be using it but it getting in the way and/or being unsightly.

Kal

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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 8:32 am    Post subject:

dvh99 wrote:
one thing i would have done different is take a combined fireplace as can be seen in the following link, i really like the sound of wood burning Cool .

http://www.kombifire.nl/

Open fireplaces are nice looking and sounding, but doesn't have nothing to do with heating. Very Happy

Those have poor effiency (from negative to 35%), because at best open fireplace draw about 300 - 400m³ air in one hour, meaning it draw your full house of warmed air in one hour. Thumbs Down Air flow is so huge that fireplaces structures doesn't actually heat that much and when fire ends it doesn't give much heat. Most heat it gives is radiating heat from fire.

I had open fireplace, but I didn't use it at winter time because above. Last fall I remodeled it to counterflow style fireplace. I had to make my own small scale model without upper combustion chamber, because old open fireplace was embedded to wall and couldn't be removed. Even fireplaces new core weight only 200-300 kilos, it still gives heat about 24 hour with 3/4 firebox of wood. Old open fireplace structures and surrounding heavy wall is charged and are giving heat during long period. It also have "summer" valves, those opened it have straight path to chimney and it could be used door opened. Those valves also help annual chimney sweeping.

In kitchen we have about 4000kg counterflow style baking owen, that radiates heat about 48 hour after burning one full fire box. Thumbs Up

Counterflow style fireplaces have 80-90% effiency.

Some commercial ones are decent looking.
http://www.tulikivi.com/en/fireplaces/Heat_accumulating_fireplaces_soapstone_fireplaces

Edit. Found crappy picture of old open fireplace and added that to zip.



Fireplace conversion 02.zip
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dvh99



Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland

Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:32 am    Post subject:

i`m sure you are right but it is not just about efficiency in moderate environments but more about the atmsosphere.
finland can get really cold for a long time and then it is a serious thing to consider.

cheers,

dennis

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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:56 am    Post subject:

dvh99 wrote:
i`m sure you are right but it is not just about efficiency in moderate environments but more about the atmsosphere.
Yes, I understand that.

Just wanted to give something to think about for those who consider fireplace also for heating purposes. Glass door in more efficient fireplace gives pretty much same atmosphere that open ones.

Open fireplaces was very popular here around 1960-75 when heating energy was cheap, but after that most of those have been chanced to something more efficient.
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:13 am    Post subject:

It's amazing how much progress slows down when the design/build company stops and I take over. Other than a few small touch-ups, they are basically done. I don't have a team of people who can work on this 8 hours/day.

Here's the progress over the last 2-3 weeks:

My keg freezer (keezer) will be more visible now that it's going into the brewery so I have it a coat of Rustoleum-type paint in black:



I hung my brewery control panel:



The wall plate I used before was stained to match my old tile. It's now been painted dark grey to match the wall (again using Rustoleum):



Immediately to the right of the control panel is the fan speed control unit. This used to be in a separate little wall-hung box. Now that I'm able to design from scratch I installed it as a regular switch right in the wall. The outlet is hidden up above the vent hood.

I'm going to be using a 24x60" stainless steel commercial table for the brew stand instead of the wood one I built previously, so I painted the pump stand to match:



We've started to move in the Jaymar home theater seating that we had before as well as the speakers (Paradigm Signature series):





The bathroom vanity lighting, mirror, and shower tower were installed:







A couple of vapour proof pot lights were installed in the sauna, same ones that are used in the shower:



Sauna heater running (it needs to run for a good hour or two to burn off any oily residues from the manufacturing process):



I installed the VintageView wine racks:



They come in 1, 2, and 3 bottle deep varieties. We went with the 2-bottle deep version:



We moved the movies on to the storage shelves:



The temporary white light switches were replaced with black switches and Lutron DIVA DVCL-153 dimmers. There are a couple of special Lutron Spacer SPS-600 IR dimmers for the home theater:



I like these Lutron dimmers because they look exactly like regular Decora style switches and the dimmer slider is tiny & off to the side. People will simply hit them to turn them on and off instead of messing with the dimmer settings.

The IR dimmers have a clear back so that they can be blasted by an IR blaster that will be installed later. I pulled a CAT5 line into the 4-gang box before the drywall went up. The idea is to have a single IR receiver above the screen that then "blasts" the various home theater devices and these two dimmers. This way you don't have to point your remote in the right direction. Just point at the screen and everything (including the equipment that is out of the line of sight) receives the signal.

Both styles of dimmers also support CFL and LED lighting in case we want to upgrade in the future. LED is still insanely priced today so it's definitely for future use. We may put a couple in the wine rack just to avoid excess heat but other than that we'll probably stick with the halogen lighting that's already been installed.

Kal

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:21 am    Post subject:

Super super super nice Kal!!!!!


Nashou

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kal
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 2:41 pm    Post subject:

Wow, looking at these now I realize my camera sensor needs a good cleaning! Lots of dots/spots ...

Kal

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HK-Steve



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Location: Switzerland

TV/Projector: Marquee 9500, Epson 8100

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 3:36 pm    Post subject:

Agree, Looks not just great, Looks Fantastic.

Also agree, clean your lens, ha ha.


Cheers

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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject:

kal wrote:
Wow, looking at these now I realize my camera sensor needs a good cleaning! Lots of dots/spots ...

Kal


I was wondering why new paint had dirt spots. I didn't wanna say anything though Very Happy

Looks great. How's it feel to get everything your way?

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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:03 pm    Post subject:

Damn, how'd you get your sensor so filthy? Were you changing lenses while the drywall guys were finishing? Wink

kal wrote:
The idea is to have a single IR receiver above the screen that then "blasts" the various home theater devices and these two dimmers. This way you don't have to point your remote in the right direction. Just point at the screen and everything (including the equipment that is out of the line of sight) receives the signal.

Or you could use iRule and a new iPad mini (or iPhone or iPad or Android phone or tablet) and not have to "point" your remote any direction at all. Wink In fact, you wouldn't even have to be in the same room. I love firing the system up a few minutes before we go down and having it all ready to go. Just throw the disc in and sit down.

I like your concept, too... Looks familiar! Wink Mine are Insteon, though.



The basement is looking AWESOME, Kal! Really, really outstanding!

Great work!

SC
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kal
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:35 pm    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
Looks great. How's it feel to get everything your way?

Pretty good though everything's still a compromise. There's a lot of little things I wish we could have done differently but overall I'm really happy. Only problem now is the amount of "things" left to do for me. I'm frankly somewhat sick of it and just want it to all be "done" so that I can use it.

ecrabb wrote:
Damn, how'd you get your sensor so filthy? Were you changing lenses while the drywall guys were finishing? Wink

Good question - I don't know! Smile Any tips on cleaning it? Googling gives all sorts of different solutions from blow bulbs to little brushes to special wet wipes, etc.

I love your accoustic wall panels Steve. Do you have build instructions anywhere? I want to do the entire screen wall exactly like yours in black or something very dark and may even come out 4' or so into the room to get a shadowbox concept. I also may want them on the side wall as well at the first reflection points. Not that much different than what you did.

I did this last time:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=689

The panels are 1/8" hardboard / fiberglass ceiling tile / 1" open cell foam, all wrapped in black speaker cloth.
The edges on yours are really nice and clean. I take it you made wood frame for them to get that nice square edge look? Is there a slight air gap between them and the wall? (Supposed to help with absorption if you keep the back fiberglass or open cell foam open to air).

You need pics in your gallery!

Kal

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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
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Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:19 pm    Post subject:

kal wrote:
ecrabb wrote:
Damn, how'd you get your sensor so filthy? Were you changing lenses while the drywall guys were finishing? Wink

Good question - I don't know! Smile Any tips on cleaning it? Googling gives all sorts of different solutions from blow bulbs to little brushes to special wet wipes, etc.

My dad and I (Nikon) and a buddy of mine (Canon) have only ever used these:

http://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/curtpalmecrtp-20

I've only ever had a few spots, and I've always been able to get them off with the rocket. I hold the camera face-down, take the lens off, lock the mirror up, and shoot the rocket up into the body a couple of times. I put the lens back on and test by shooting a white piece of paper completely out of focus.

I've always been able to get rid of them that way, and same with my old man and my buddy's camera... I've helped them both times. It usually takes a couple of tries to get the stubborn spots, but I've gotten 'em.

I also try to avoid getting dust in the first place by always changing lenses with the body facing down - never up or even horizontal, and I try to avoid doing out in the dust or wind.

I've watched all the YouTube videos of the wet systems, and it scares the crap out of me touching the sensor, but I guess the sensor has a filter over it, so it's supposedly not as sensitive as you might imagine. Never had to do it, though.

kal wrote:
I love your accoustic wall panels Steve. Do you have build instructions anywhere? I want to do the entire screen wall exactly like yours in black or something very dark and may even come out 4' or so into the room to get a shadowbox concept. I also may want them on the side wall as well at the first reflection points. Not that much different than what you did.

Thanks! But, confession time... I was kind of sick of working every weekend when I got my room most of the way built, and faced with the decision of whether to spend another weekend in the garage, or watch a couple of movies, I chose movies and whipped out my credit card instead. I ordered these:

http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--ATS-Designer-Acoustic-Panel-SandShapes-Series--3002.html

They have a 1/4" masonite back on them, light wood frames for nice sharp edges, and a 2" Roxul AFB core. They're only good down to 500hz; at 250hz, they're half as effective. 4" panels would be better, but I didn't have the space. That's also why I didn't space them out from the wall - no room. The included aluminum z-clips (another nice thing) space panel out only about an 1/8" or so.

The price has gone up a bit since I bought mine four or five years ago... I think I only paid about $40/ea treated with flame retardant and shipped to my house. I know it can be done much less expensively DIY... Probably well under half - I was just sick of working it. The ATS panels would be very easy to build.

kal wrote:
You need pics in your gallery!

Ha, never did that. I threw a few up there even though they're pretty old.

SC
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kal
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Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:47 am    Post subject:

ecrabb wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/curtpalmecrtp-20

Thanks! I'll definitely get one.

Quote:
I also try to avoid getting dust in the first place by always changing lenses with the body facing down - never up or even horizontal, and I try to avoid doing out in the dust or wind.

Same here. Just goes to show how much dust gets gets everywhere during home reno's.

I've watched all the YouTube videos of the wet systems, and it scares the crap out of me touching the sensor, but I guess the sensor has a filter over it, so it's supposedly not as sensitive as you might imagine. Never had to do it, though.

Quote:
Thanks! But, confession time... I was kind of sick of working every weekend when I got my room most of the way built, and faced with the decision of whether to spend another weekend in the garage, or watch a couple of movies, I chose movies and whipped out my credit card instead. I ordered these:

http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--ATS-Designer-Acoustic-Panel-SandShapes-Series--3002.html

I understand completely. I'm in the same boat. I'm frankly sick of working on this stuff. Unfortunately they charge $59 in shipping and taxes to ship a $42 24x36x2" panel to Ontario. Yikes.

If anyone has anything similar they've seen in Canada (or a US company that ships to Canada for reasonable rates), let me know!

Thanks for posting the pictures of the HT. Very nice. Is the screen wall simply painted black or is it something different?

Kal

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kal
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 2:51 am    Post subject:

The two stainless NSF prep tables I ordered arrived so I was able to move more things into the brewery. The table under the kettles is 24x60" while the one along the side wall is 24x96" with a backsplash.





View from the bar:



The three Portland bar stools arrived along with the four Barcelona chairs. Unfortunately 3 of the 4 chairs sent were white (we ordered black) so back they go.



I started working on the HDMI switching/distribution for the home theater as well:



We have 2 sources (for now):

- HD PVR for satellite/TV content. This HDMI signal is split and sent to a family room TV over ethernet.
- A PS3 for DVD/Blu-ray games.

The empty spot on the left will be for a Lumagen Radiance video processor for doing 125 point greyscale/colour/gamma auto-calibration (among other things) to perfectly tune the picture before it is sent to the projector. What many people don't know about projectors and TVs in general is that they require calibration in order to produce a close to accurate representation of the video signal being displayed. Most displays do a horrible job at displaying what the director intended.

I always tell people to properly calibrate their display before they think of upgrading. Most will be shocked when they see what they've been missing. For more information see my free GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES guide.

Kal

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kal
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 1:10 pm    Post subject:

I installed the "Dragon's Breath" Metal Wall Art and hung the Dervish 5-Light Pendant Light:



Nice to finally see some colour. Everything so far has been very grey/monochromatic.

I thought that hanging what is essentially 7 separate pictures 1" apart and have them line up straight would be an exercise in frustration but it was actually quite simple. They provide a paper template to make things easier. Tape it level to the wall and then install 7 drywall anchors with screws. I've always liked the self-drilling drywall anchors as they're quick and easy to use and don't make a mess.

Three of the four black leather Barcelona chairs are loaners while we wait for the replacements to be ordered (in case some eagle-eyed readers notice the chairs are slightly different). They sent us white ones by mistake. We now need a table and possibly an area rug underneath to finish off this area.

<rant>

Having to replace things (sometimes many times) before getting the right part or a non-defective part seems to the norm these days.

The extreme example was the bathroom shower tower: We ordered it 3 times before giving up and going with a different brand. The first 3 all arrived damaged during shipping.

The companies have all been good about replacing things it but it seems like a disturbing trend regardless of how much you spend or what quality you expect. Frustrating.

</rant>

Kal

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1276
Location: Calgary

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 6:27 pm    Post subject:

Wow, looking alright there Kal, good job.
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kal
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Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 6:03 pm    Post subject:

Does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably accurate sauna thermometers & hygrometers?

I purchased this bucket/ladle set but the included combination thermometer/hygrometer is a piece of junk:



Both the thermometer/hygrometer are bi-metal (a coil that tightens/loosens based on temperature or humidity levels) but both stick like crazy and jump around making them impossible to calibrate let alone use. Turning the calibration screw slowly does nothing and then all of a sudden the needle will jump 180 degrees.

Doesn't necessarily have to be a "sauna" thermometer or hydrometer either. Though the thermometer needs to go to at least 180-200F.

Thanks!

Kal

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dvh99



Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland

Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 5:45 pm    Post subject:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-Space-Age-GERMAN-sputnik-atomic-BAROMETER-THERMOMETER-HYGROMETER-/300805841671?pt=AU_Decorative_Arts_Homewares&hash=item46096ce307

pretty cool if you ask me.

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