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Replacing Marquee hardware (caphead screws)

 
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jbmeyer13



Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1135


Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:22 pm    Post subject: Replacing Marquee hardware (caphead screws)

I'm replacing the standard marquee cap head screws with new stainless hardware. I'm not sure exactly what the size of the screws in the picture below are. I think they are 3/16 but not sure on the length. I'm heading to the hardware store straight from work.


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Projector: Modded 9501LC ULtra- MP VIM, Vold VNB, ETECH LVPS, Silver VIM Cables, HD10F's & a V1 case!
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Tim in Phoenix



Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix

Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:29 pm    Post subject:

Ummm

Try 1/4-20, I don't remember the length.

And your lenses won't mount with all the small screws just around the c element, four of those have to go.

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jbmeyer13



Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1135


Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:36 pm    Post subject:

That's the same thing Drag's told me but he doesn't know the length either:-) Anyone...Bueller, Bueller...
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dturco



Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland

TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner

Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:54 pm    Post subject:

jbmeyer13 wrote:
That's the same thing Drag's told me but he doesn't know the length either:-) Anyone...Bueller, Bueller...


The threaded portion is 7/8ths and the cap is 1/4, overall length is 1 1/8. I just measured one I have laying around with my spare L/C chambers.

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cmjohnson



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:02 am    Post subject:

Just be aware, SS hardware is NOT as strong as good carbon steel hardware. In particular, SS is softer and more likely to be damaged and deformed
if the bolt gets really tight or you fail to fully seat the wrench in the socket.

There have been times when I've found stuck bolts that probably would have not survived the loosening process if they had been stainless.

I really wouldn't bother to replace the carbon steel hardware with SS. Except where the bolts can contact glycol (filler screws), there just isn't any advantage
to SS. It costs more and isn't as strong.

CJ
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Tim in Phoenix



Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 2:03 am    Post subject:

Guys

I discovered an unexpected but effective way to remove socket-damaged allen bolts. I have a Torx kit here with some very tiny sizes, and I was confronted by a stripped fill hole screw on a Marquee tube last week. I took the Torx head that was very slightly wider than the allen hex indent, and hammered the Torx head into the indent. The Torx head was turnable with a small socket wrench, and my problem was solved. This may work for larger allen sizes.


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