CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Curt Palme]

Thanks for understanding, but this one really is unique. I love all the different avenues that everyone here has taken, but I still think it's bad caps. You'd need an HV probe to measure the 34Kv to check to see if the HV stays up, but there's another way to check:

Each CRT socket has a single red wire going to it. That's the G2 wire, and should have 500-800 volts on it. You can pull the wire off the CRT socket to measure it, but also pull the CRT socket off that particular tube, as leaving off the G2 wire will burn the tube face at turnoff if the set all of a sudden starts to work again with that wire off the socket.

MEasure the wire when the set is on. AS I said, you should get 500-800 volts on it. If you get 0-30, then the set's HV isn't coming up properly. I think the G2 voltage is delayed a bit after turnon, it's been a while since I played with a PG, but my guess is that the G2 voltage may come up, but then die 5 seconds in. That means the HV is shutting down, and that's a failure that the NEC error code list won't catch. Give that a shot, and let me know.

[Curt Palme]

Thanks for understanding, but this one really is unique. I love all the different avenues that everyone here has taken, but I still think it's bad caps. You'd need an HV probe to measure the 34Kv to check to see if the HV stays up, but there's another way to check:

Each CRT socket has a single red wire going to it. That's the G2 wire, and should have 500-800 volts on it. You can pull the wire off the CRT socket to measure it, but also pull the CRT socket off that particular tube, as leaving off the G2 wire will burn the tube face at turnoff if the set all of a sudden starts to work again with that wire off the socket.

MEasure the wire when the set is on. AS I said, you should get 500-800 volts on it. If you get 0-30, then the set's HV isn't coming up properly. I think the G2 voltage is delayed a bit after turnon, it's been a while since I played with a PG, but my guess is that the G2 voltage may come up, but then die 5 seconds in. That means the HV is shutting down, and that's a failure that the NEC error code list won't catch. Give that a shot, and let me know.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Had another think about this over a cold beer....

There is a couple switches on the SYSTEM board, and i think one may turn off the on screen display... Curt may know which one does that...

Also, what do you see if you look into the tube faces and press KELVIN on the remote?? Should see a line appear on the tube face, or at least the tubes go brighter and then dim down abit..

[gjaky]

He said it didn't make any difference when he adjusted brightness and contrast, no light at all, so somewhy/somehow the tubes are hold down.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

That isnt what i asked.

[gjaky]

I GUESS if there is no light at all in the tubes then the OSD disabling button won't cure the problem (anyway that is the S8232 switch, and should be in OFF position), also kelvin button is just a simple extend of the brightness contrast sliders, so if the set is not responding to contrast and brightness settings I hardly imagine it will respond to kelvin instead. And note during brightness adjustment the AKB line also should appear on the top.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Well instead of guessing, which doesnt help much, how about we eliminate ALL possibilities??

Pressing KELVIN with a dead video output board could still result in some reaction on the tube faces. How do you know that pressing KELVIN wont bring the level up to where it can be seen?? If the G2 is too low, adjusting the brightness and contrast wont do a damn thing, and the OSD wont be seen either. How does he know if he adjusted the brightness if he cant see the OSD??

How do we even know his remote is working? Is it running on batteries or plugged in with the cable? If the remote isnt working, nothing he tries is going to work is it!!

And no, on a PG plain or PG PLUS, the AKB line doesnt appear during brightness adjustment. Not on any ive operated. XTRA yes, XG yes, but not the others, unless AKB is turned on allready.

So can you see any really good reason as to why he should NOT try what i suggest? If it doesnt work, is he any worse off?? Its a very real and very simple possibility and i see no good reason not to give it a shot.

[gjaky]

The kelvin settings leave the OSD levels intact, and also brightness and contrast do not affect it -at least on my PG xtra

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Youre not following me. The G2 settings too low will prevent the OSD from being seen. I know this, cause when i put in one of the GAIN CTL boards i got from you, there was zero light output from the tubes til i pressed the KELVIN button on the remote. Once i pressed KELVIN, all was back as it shouldve been.

Im not saying adjust the kelvin, im saying press the KELVIN button so the set will auto adjust the G2.

What im also saying is there is no way known anyone can sit there and tell me this guy has run his brightness and contrast up and down if he cant see the menu on the tubes, cause what have you got to prove it is actually happening?

Do we even know for sure if the remote is working? If he has put rechargable batteries of any sort in the remote, it wont work well, if at all. Have the rear panel buttons been tried to see if they do anything? Has the remote been tried with the plug in cable?

These are all pretty important things that should be at least questioned and tested PRIOR to this guy shelling out a heap of cash on a whim.

An XTRA is not the same as a Plain or PLUS in terms of some of these functions, so there is little point using them as a base for comparision.