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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 1:14 am Post subject: |
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Got it. Looks the same as mine. Where did you see the reference to your model number?
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 1:36 am Post subject: |
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Alright, I looked over these schematics and here's what I'm thinking. You first had arcing on the blue which you had a cracked blue tube. You also has R3149 and R3150 burnt. These resistor are on the blue conv yolk return so it could be that the blue tube arced over to the blue conv yolk and took out the resistors.
Now you have and arc on the red tube and burnt R3159 and R3160 (you stated R3059 and R3060 which I believe is incorrect). Anyways, these resistors are on the red conv yolk return so it could be the red tube arced to the red conv yolk and thats what took out those 2 resistors.
SOOOOOOOOOOOOO.... you may want to check and see if that red tube is not also cracked!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, this arcing issue has to be determined.
I'll be back tomorrow...... night.
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Axel87
Joined: 26 Jun 2010
Posts: 22
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| Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 2:17 am Post subject: |
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I only see one problem with that theory, the 3149/3150 resistors did not burn up until after I replaced the blue tube.
I do not see it probable that my stock blue and replacement and also my red tube are all cracked. I guess it is totally possible, you do have alot more experience than I.
Is there a way to test the tube with a MM? Also, should we do voltage checks?
Hoping you can help me with those, I have been cautious about doing those as I do know these units have the potential to kill so I didnt want to stick the probe somewhere dangerous. (no pun intended) lol
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Axel87 wrote: | I only see one problem with that theory, the 3149/3150 resistors did not burn up until after I replaced the blue tube.
I do not see it probable that my stock blue and replacement and also my red tube are all cracked. I guess it is totally possible, you do have alot more experience than I.
Is there a way to test the tube with a MM? Also, should we do voltage checks?
Hoping you can help me with those, I have been cautious about doing those as I do know these units have the potential to kill so I didnt want to stick the probe somewhere dangerous. (no pun intended) lol |
Well, my theory is speculation but as of yet is still viable. There is no voltage tests to determine what is arcing or causing the arcing.
So what do we know so far. You had a cracked blue tube that you replaced with a (used?) one. You then still had arcing in the blue tube. You then also burnt 2 resistors in the blue conv yolk return line and after replacement then did not burn up again. Then removing the HV wire for the blue the red began arcing and then burnt up 2 resistors in the red conv yolk return line.
Now what we know for a fact is that Philips has a common problem of cracking tube necks under the main deflection yolk. What we also know is that arcing in a tube is usually either caused by contamination in the grid area or loss of vacuum.
You also indicated that you saw arcing on 1 of the crt boards. This could of been caused by the spark gaps located on the board itself which are there to discharge any static buildup within the tube. So they were operating correctly and doing their job.
So, this arcing problem has to be resolved. The only simple thing I can think of is to check all the ground wires around the crt boards and tubes and make sure they are properly attached. If all is good then I would remove the reds HV wire from the splitter and see if the green only will come on. You may have to put the blue crt board back on for it to fully come on. Some you do, some you dont.
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Axel87
Joined: 26 Jun 2010
Posts: 22
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| Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 12:02 am Post subject: |
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Hello again, and thanks for your continued support.
So, now I am really confused as to what is going on here.
I replaced 3159 and 3160, tried as you suggested, to remove the red leads from the HV splitter and see if only the green would light up.
I did not get the usual arcing in the green tube, but I did see sum flash from the bottom of the splitter and also 3159 and 3160 burnt up again.
I do not see how they would burn up again if it is disconnected? Could this be a sign of a short somewhere?
Any help on this would be great. Im stumped, as usual 
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 12:52 am Post subject: |
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| Axel87 wrote: | Hello again, and thanks for your continued support.
So, now I am really confused as to what is going on here.
I replaced 3159 and 3160, tried as you suggested, to remove the red leads from the HV splitter and see if only the green would light up.
I did not get the usual arcing in the green tube, but I did see sum flash from the bottom of the splitter and also 3159 and 3160 burnt up again.
I do not see how they would burn up again if it is disconnected? Could this be a sign of a short somewhere?
Any help on this would be great. Im stumped, as usual |
So leave R3159 and R3160 out of circuit until you get the arcing problem straightened out.
As far as finding the arcing problem all I can do is guide you. I can't not find it from here. You have to find it. Remove those resistors and fire it up again and take notice of where you see an arc. Then investigate there.
AM I correct that all you have disconnect right now is the HV wires for the blue and red at the splitter?
You may be getting to a point where a tech would have to dig in there to find the problem.
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