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XS+ power up problem
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:21 am    Post subject:

Almost done. Still have to pull AC for the PS that will feed the Moome MUX HD, its the PS partially under the right XS PS.

Then I have to cut the top panel so it slides in around the tea sinks. The right PS will have to go in last after the top is slid on.

I also will need to find better DC plugs for the larger DC Jacks, the ones I got are a bit loose.For the smaller Jacks for the TV-Ones
I got lockable Plugs. they are screwed onto the threaded part of the jack. I should have got them all the same But i didn't know for sure what I was getting and wanted to try a few out. The larger ones tho are beefier for the higher amps the Lumagen's draw.

And I might add two Push button switches on the front panel for the Radiance XS's since they run hot , even in standby( just warm)







Nashou

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:51 pm    Post subject:

Damn it I just realized something. The output Jacks are not insulated. So they all are connected to each other through the chassis.

Not sure what to do now. I might be able to find rubber or plastic grommets and re drill the holes a bit larger to fit the grommets and then reinstall the jacks back in.

Or would it be ok as is? I don't think so. Damn it!!!

I hate over sight!!! The voltages all measure ok. Also the Sigma 11 states not to connect Jacks to chasisis if the unit being powered
has a virtual ground. Not sure if any of the things I want to power have a virtual ground or not. I looked it up on WIKI but really not sure what to do.

Any insights guys?

Nashou

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flipdog



Joined: 22 Dec 2011
Posts: 156


Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:55 pm    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:


Any insights guys?

Nashou

Laughing

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:12 pm    Post subject:

Ha ha HA!! not funny..........


well sorta is Wink

I think I'll try to find some Plastic shoulder washers.

Nashou

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:28 am    Post subject:

Well went and got some rubber grommets. The three larger Jacks will work fine the smaller ones have to short of a threaded bushing so I had to order the longer Switchcraft ones (L722A).

More waiting.........

Athanasios

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barclay66



Joined: 27 Jun 2011
Posts: 1304
Location: Germany

TV/Projector: Marquee 9500 Ultra

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:41 am    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
Damn it I just realized something. The output Jacks are not insulated. So they all are connected to each other through the chassis.

Not sure what to do now. I might be able to find rubber or plastic grommets and re drill the holes a bit larger to fit the grommets and then reinstall the jacks back in.

Or would it be ok as is? I don't think so. Damn it!!!


Hello Nash,

I would replace the output jacks.

First reason: The isolation requirement. If the outputs are all connected to the same potential (chassis ground) and the inputs and/or outputs of the powered devices carry ground potential too, You easily could run into a ground loop problem.
Second reason: The currents running across them. You've used quite small jacks and most of those are rated for 2-3A only. You wouldn't like to see what happens if over time they produce contact resistance and start burning up.

I therefore would recommend using XLR connectors (see pictures). They are available with contacts supporting 7.5, 10 or even 16A. They are secured against accidentially being pulled out, the contacts are isolated against the chassis and they are easy to solder the wires on.
Mouser part numbers are 568-NC3FP-1 for the sockets and 568-NC3FXX for the plugs (or equivalents of those).

I know, they are designed for stage/studio audio applications and You should put some warning labels near the sockets, but this is what I would be using. Especially if I already had put so much work into this project. You know: The marathon runner shouldn't try to run the last 100 feet on one leg only...

Regards,
barclay66



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stridsvognen
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:57 am    Post subject:

+1

I love using Neutrik XLR plugs for PS purpose, and if you have different voltage outputs, you can order with different amount of pins, so you cant connect the unit to a wrong supply voltage. you can get them with 3-4-6 pin.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:50 pm    Post subject:

Thanks for the advice guys. Well for the higher current draw of the XS jacks would see I used a 3 amp jack that is different then the switch craft ones which are for the 12 volt Tv_ones which have just lower than 1 amp draw.

The Kobiconn jacks are very beefy

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/209/KC-301074-199162.pdf

But i already drilled the holes but the XLR's might be an option if the holes I drilled will be the right size for those
xlr Jacks.

Nashou

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:23 pm    Post subject:

I can not find the data sheets for the jacks. I need to know the outside diameter.

Mouser just links the catalog page.

Found it, I was looking at the black one but i found the data sheet from neutrik site.



http://www.neutrik.us/zoolu-website/media/download/1767/Drawing+NC3FD-L-1



Athanasios

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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


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Last edited by Nashou66 on Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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stridsvognen
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:25 pm    Post subject:

http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors/dlx-series/
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:42 pm    Post subject:

I was just posting an edit! I found it. thanks anyway Kurt.

Nashou

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:55 pm    Post subject:

Radio Shack has the same jacks. Those things are huge!!!!

Id have to order another panel and start over to use them. So for now I'll stay with what I got.

I may build another one in the future as I still have about 3 more wall warts i'd like to eliminate
but they are not for critical equipment so I could go with cheaper transformers and parts for those.

Athanasios

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:25 am    Post subject:

Well its all up and running. Workes great except for the Moome MUX. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. it would
not lock to the HDMI signal. Occasionally unplugging and plugging back in it work. So for now I am not using that output jack. It does work as it powers the radiance. both use 5 VDC.

I Alos tried it on an EXT Moome V1.3 I just got and it makes all the lights light up and or one just flickers.

No AC is on the output and the radiance ran stable from that Jack.

Any Ideas?

Nashou

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HK-Steve



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Location: Switzerland

TV/Projector: Marquee 9500, Epson 8100

Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:56 am    Post subject:

What is the output voltage, from memory, you said it was under 5v.
Maybe it is boarderline for the MUX??

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:13 pm    Post subject:

HK-Steve wrote:
What is the output voltage, from memory, you said it was under 5v.
Maybe it is boarderline for the MUX??


On this supply board I used a higher tolerance 5.1 diode, 2% vs 5% so my voltage came in at 5.05 VDC.

Not sure why its acting up. I don't think Current would be an issue as this can go quite high.

Athanasios

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Boilermaker



Joined: 21 May 2006
Posts: 527


Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:15 pm    Post subject:

Nash, I use 9 volt wall warts on my Mux's. There is nothing wrong with your supply, just need to up the voltage a tad bit. I never took my Mux apart, but I would guess that it uses a 5 volt regulator, so it needs enough to overcome its necessary insertion loss. It ain't broke, so don't fix it.

Bob
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Boilermaker



Joined: 21 May 2006
Posts: 527


Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:22 pm    Post subject:

Nash, I also wouldn't worry about the current ratings as they are most likely "make-break" ratings and not steady state capability. Big difference in values!

Bob
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:24 pm    Post subject:

Boilermaker wrote:
Nash, I use 9 volt wall warts on my Mux's.
There is nothing wrong with your supply, just need to up the voltage a tad bit.
I never took my Mux apart, but I would guess that it uses a 5 volt regulator, so
it needs enough to overcome its necessary insertion loss. It ain't broke, so don't fix it.

Bob


Well the Wall Warts that came with it were 5 volters. I never actually measured them.

I have been using a 5 volt one with a 2 amp rating from a Gefen DVI splitter.
Moome emailed me back and said they use 1-1.5 amps depending on the set up situation.
What is strange is that it will power the Radiance XS but not the MUX.

He also said the MUX really doesn't need a Linear PS since its all digital. Might be some truth to it.
I just want to get rid of my wall warts. Wink

Hmm 9 volts huh? maybe I'll get a 9 volt diode from radio shack and give it a try.

Also I just got a Moome EXT HD V1.3 and tried that with the Sigma and it too acted funny.
All LED's flashing or just one
blinking . So that is why i wondered if it was something Moome specific.

I tried it on the Gefen DVD splitter and that also worked fine as did a Cordless phone base
that uses the same plug.

So I know it is not the PS.

nashou

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barclay66



Joined: 27 Jun 2011
Posts: 1304
Location: Germany

TV/Projector: Marquee 9500 Ultra

Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:15 am    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
Hmm 9 volts huh? maybe I'll get a 9 volt diode from radio shack and give it a try.

Hi,

I wouldn't do that. If there's no voltage regulator inside, You might break the unit. Or, if it has a voltage regulator inside, its power dissipation might rise to a dangerous level due to the increased voltage drop.
Although I don't know which MUX version You're using, it might be interesting to know, that the current MUX-FHD uses 6 volts. It normally should be labelled at the power input.
In general, I've had the best results when I went slightly over the rated voltage. For 5 volts this could be between 5.2 and 5.4 volts.
Reason: When there's a significant current draw, the higher voltage will compensate for the voltage drop across the series resistance of cables, connectors, input filters etc.
At 5 volts and 1A current draw a series resistance of only 0.1 Ohm will result in a voltage drop of 0.1 volts and digital circuits rated at 5 volts might start acting up at 4.8 volts already. So much for a safe operation margin...

Regards,
barclay66
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:03 pm    Post subject:

Just an update, I have not been in my theater for a month or so since i began the tear down of the Marquees for a 9 inch conversion.
Well i must have left the power supply on that whole time!!!! The Tv-ones and Radiance's were still on working. SO i know that the design of the Sigma is very robust. I turned on my one PJ and let it run for an hour and the PS was still working well.

Safe to say it is reliable and the heat I thought might be an issue is not as of now.

Athanasios

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