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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:10 pm Post subject: draining / filling coolant on Marquee |
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What's the preferred way to drain and fill coolant for the LC chamber on a Marquee?
TIA -
Steve
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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I thought about using a turkey baster or a large syringe with a tube, but the question remains, where exactly do you do this? That is, if the bellow is in place as well as the C-element, where is the fill/drain port?
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erikjohn
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 636
Location: Florida
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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There are two hex screws on top of the tube housing. Replace them with stainless screws. Removing the coolant is simple just remove the screws and drain while pumping the bellow. To put back new in use a taxidermy syringe kit.......Google it.
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EJ
Last edited by erikjohn on Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:56 pm; edited 2 times in total
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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| erikjohn wrote: | | Taxidermy syringe kit.......Google it. |
I assume this means piercing the bellows to drain it?
How do you fill the LC chamber?
Thanks.
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:05 pm Post subject: |
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| mr_ro_co wrote: | | erikjohn wrote: | | Taxidermy syringe kit.......Google it. |
I assume this means piercing the bellows to drain it?
How do you fill the LC chamber?
Thanks. |
No !!! 
Read EJ's post...
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bigbri
Joined: 29 Apr 2010
Posts: 22
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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I just finished reassembling my PJ after cleaning out a fungus attack. I followed the guide in the "advanced procedures", 2nd page has a short cut, so you don't need to dissemble the gun. as for what I used to get it in and out. I started with a small syringe used for glueing woodworking projects, the tip fit the hole OK but it was too small and took way to long. I went to a local medical supply and got a 60cc syringe used for cath, I think they said. anyway's that tip was way to big. sooo I cut the tip off the little one, shoved it into the big one, about 4 maybe 5 squirts and done. in all I spent about $15.00
brian
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Tom.W wrote: | | mr_ro_co wrote: | | erikjohn wrote: | | Taxidermy syringe kit.......Google it. |
I assume this means piercing the bellows to drain it?
How do you fill the LC chamber?
Thanks. |
No !!!
Read EJ's post... |
He must have edited it - it didn't contain the info it now does!
Steve
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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| erikjohn wrote: | | There are two hex screws on top of the tube housing. Replace them with stainless screws. Removing the coolant is simple just remove the screws and drain while pumping the bellow. To put back new in use a taxidermy syringe kit.......Google it. |
Okay, that makes sense.
Thanks!
Steve
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:22 pm Post subject: |
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| bigbri wrote: | I just finished reassembling my PJ after cleaning out a fungus attack. I followed the guide in the "advanced procedures", 2nd page has a short cut, so you don't need to dissemble the gun. as for what I used to get it in and out. I started with a small syringe used for glueing woodworking projects, the tip fit the hole OK but it was too small and took way to long. I went to a local medical supply and got a 60cc syringe used for cath, I think they said. anyway's that tip was way to big. sooo I cut the tip off the little one, shoved it into the big one, about 4 maybe 5 squirts and done. in all I spent about $15.00
brian |
This was done through the top two holes that EJ was referring to ?
Steve
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:29 pm Post subject: |
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do you have the old bellows?
if so i would replace them with the ones from nashou.
glycol is very hygroscopic and the moisture transmission from the newer bellows is 4 or 5 times less then the old ones.
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erikjohn
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 636
Location: Florida
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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| mr_ro_co wrote: | | bigbri wrote: | I just finished reassembling my PJ after cleaning out a fungus attack. I followed the guide in the "advanced procedures", 2nd page has a short cut, so you don't need to dissemble the gun. as for what I used to get it in and out. I started with a small syringe used for glueing woodworking projects, the tip fit the hole OK but it was too small and took way to long. I went to a local medical supply and got a 60cc syringe used for cath, I think they said. anyway's that tip was way to big. sooo I cut the tip off the little one, shoved it into the big one, about 4 maybe 5 squirts and done. in all I spent about $15.00
brian |
This was done through the top two holes that EJ was referring to ?
Steve |
It is advisable to remove the electronics as it is very tough to keep any glycol from getting into the electronics and then it will arc if there is any that makes its way in there and it can create havoc. I know from experience on that.
I bought the taxidermy syringe online and it worked great as I did a couple sets with it. I forget what I size it was but it was the larger one but will fit in the holes, it is what you need to fill the bellows.
Answer is to your question though is yes, through those holes is the only way to fill the bellows. As I said though, do yourself a favor and get stainless replacement screws cause those original ones can and probably will corrode and cause nasty streaking on the tube face, also been there and done that. As far as replacing bellows goes, that is another undertaking that is not easy, especially the removing the old bellows part so tread lightly there depending on how deep into this you want to get.
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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| erikjohn wrote: | | mr_ro_co wrote: | | bigbri wrote: | I just finished reassembling my PJ after cleaning out a fungus attack. I followed the guide in the "advanced procedures", 2nd page has a short cut, so you don't need to dissemble the gun. as for what I used to get it in and out. I started with a small syringe used for glueing woodworking projects, the tip fit the hole OK but it was too small and took way to long. I went to a local medical supply and got a 60cc syringe used for cath, I think they said. anyway's that tip was way to big. sooo I cut the tip off the little one, shoved it into the big one, about 4 maybe 5 squirts and done. in all I spent about $15.00
brian |
This was done through the top two holes that EJ was referring to ?
Steve |
It is advisable to remove the electronics as it is very tough to keep any glycol from getting into the electronics and then it will arc if there is any that makes its way in there and it can create havoc. I know from experience on that.
I bought the taxidermy syringe online and it worked great as I did a couple sets with it. I forget what I size it was but it was the larger one but will fit in the holes, it is what you need to fill the bellows.
Answer is to your question though is yes, through those holes is the only way to fill the bellows. As I said though, do yourself a favor and get stainless replacement screws cause those original ones can and probably will corrode and cause nasty streaking on the tube face, also been there and done that. As far as replacing bellows goes, that is another undertaking that is not easy, especially the removing the old bellows part so tread lightly there depending on how deep into this you want to get. |
Understood. Yes, I am replacing the bellows with Athanasios', and replacing the glycol with a less reactive, more glycerin type that Dragan recommended. And I've got the stainless fastener hardware as well. Just wasn't clear on exactly how to drain and fill the glycol, since there are no photos of this step anywhere on this site!
Much thanks,
Steve
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | do you have the old bellows?
if so i would replace them with the ones from nashou.
glycol is very hygroscopic and the moisture transmission from the newer bellows is 4 or 5 times less then the old ones. |
Yes, I am installing Athanasios' bellows today! And I will be using a less reactive coolant, recommended by Dragan.
Thanks,
Steve
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 1:09 am Post subject: |
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| mr_ro_co wrote: | | dvh99 wrote: | do you have the old bellows?
if so i would replace them with the ones from nashou.
glycol is very hygroscopic and the moisture transmission from the newer bellows is 4 or 5 times less then the old ones. |
Yes, I am installing Athanasios' bellows today! And I will be using a less reactive coolant, recommended by Dragan.
Thanks,
Steve |
No pictures?
http://www.curtpalme.com/Changing_C_Elements1.shtm
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 2:22 am Post subject: |
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Hi Steve, the Best Way and really only safe way is to remove the tubes from the chassis. Then just cut the bellows right out over a sink and letting the glycol run out. There is a link in the Bellow thread to Dragans bellow removal and Install test Thread
. There is also an advanced procedure to remove the bellow in the advanced procedure section where i posted how to remove bellow and try to save it.
Make sure you really clean any old silicon off the flange of the C-element and the aluminum face plate where the bellow and gasket get secured to with the small alan screws. I use no Silicon to the bellow. So far i have not had any issues. The new Bellow has better compression of the ridges to make a better seal between the bellow and face plate and C-element as long as all old silicon is removed
completely.
If your housings are corroded or pitted you need to paint them with an Epoxy paint . I use the VHT All Weather paint for automotive parts. Make sure it dries for at least a week.
Athanasio
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-Pjackso
Joined: 31 Mar 2006
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
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| Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:55 am Post subject: |
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yeah, if you are going to throw the old bellows away just cut them and catch the old glycol in a tank.
that is what i did and it is of course by far the quickest.
the new bellows do not need any kit to attach to the lc housing, they are fine with me for over a year now.
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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| dturco wrote: | | mr_ro_co wrote: | | dvh99 wrote: | do you have the old bellows?
if so i would replace them with the ones from nashou.
glycol is very hygroscopic and the moisture transmission from the newer bellows is 4 or 5 times less then the old ones. |
Yes, I am installing Athanasios' bellows today! And I will be using a less reactive coolant, recommended by Dragan.
Thanks,
Steve |
No pictures?
http://www.curtpalme.com/Changing_C_Elements1.shtm |
Thanks for that. I had done all manner of searches on replacing bellows, and none of the info on replacing them had these steps or photos of them. I didn't think to look for a procedure for replacing the C-element that would show those details.
Steve
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Hi Steve, the Best Way and really only safe way is to remove the tubes from the chassis. Then just cut the bellows right out over a sink and letting the glycol run out. There is a link in the Bellow thread to Dragans bellow removal and Install test Thread
. There is also an advanced procedure to remove the bellow in the advanced procedure section where i posted how to remove bellow and try to save it.
Make sure you really clean any old silicon off the flange of the C-element and the aluminum face plate where the bellow and gasket get secured to with the small alan screws. I use no Silicon to the bellow. So far i have not had any issues. The new Bellow has better compression of the ridges to make a better seal between the bellow and face plate and C-element as long as all old silicon is removed
completely.
If your housings are corroded or pitted you need to paint them with an Epoxy paint . I use the VHT All Weather paint for automotive parts. Make sure it dries for at least a week.
Athanasio |
Athanasios,
Yes, I have all the tubes out of the chassis down in the workshop taken down to parade rest. My Vision 1 is getting me by in the meantime. 
Indeed, I did thoroughly read yours and Dragan's procedures, and although yours does save the bellows, it requires draining it over a sink. I was looking for the factory method of using the syringe and tube. I ended up improvising by using the small tube out of a hairspray bottle connected to a small syringe. The tube reaches all the way to the bottom of the bellows, so I was able to get all the coolant out with no mess, but the syringe is small, so it took a long time! I tried using a spray bottle pump and a lotion bottle pump connected to the tiny tube, but both were too awkward and slow, so I just stuck with the syringe.
I had seen long ago on Curt's site seen this approach, albeit connected with C-element replacement, but I'd forgotten it. I did numerous searches on the topic of bellows and bellows replacements, but did not come across that C-element procedure, which would have been illuminating. I think photos from that procedure, yours, and Dragan's should all be incorporated into one how-to for upgrading to your bellows.
The housing are slightly pitted. I really don't want to go to the trouble of an epoxy polyamide coating just just yet. I will clean them up really good for now. I am also using a much less corrosive, mostly glycerin coolant that Dragan recommended. Since I am not using RTV on your bellows, I will revisit refinishing the housings later, and what I'd like to do is get some other housings ahead of time, bead blast them down to raw aluminum, then black anodize them to an inch of their life. Then swap over to them. That will solve the pitting problem. It should also increase contrast ratio!
Thanks much,
Steve
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