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wildchild22
Joined: 16 Aug 2008 Posts: 185
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| Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:06 pm Post subject: People taking down nec xg's why???? |
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Well I have had a infocus x1 and sp4805 dlp's then a benq w500 lcd. Now I have a nec xg 1352LC with a moome internal 1.3 card. I am using a vp50 not pro and have a few resolutions set up. Today I turned on Quantum of Solace a James Bond flick running at 1920X800p @ 72hz active area scanning on my home made black out cloth screen. I have my contrast at 43 and brightness at 50 and OMG it is perfect. ( I do not have the brighness or contrast touched in the vp or source)
I always wanted a crt and I see no reason to ever go digital. It took me a few weeks of moving the nec and redoing setups in between watching to get it good looking. If I turn on the avshd 709 test disk I cannot see the 1 on/off patterns only something faintly on the screen. But I can see 2 on 2 off patterns perfect. All I can say is my 110" blackout cloth screen looks awesome, and even a newbie doing it all on my own was not that hard. I could care less about test patterns as bluray is awesome.
Do anyone find bell HDTV extremely soft? I found it fine on my digitals but on crt stuff like csi miami looks awful like it is all de-focused. However sports look great.
I cannot see how digitals could look any better. The 1352 with the acat for convergence makes it a snap. Even If you have to do it before every flick (I havn't had to touch it yet though) only takes a mater of 2 mins tops.
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s
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| Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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Cloth screens are usually very lossy (light shines through them instead of being reflected back to the audience) unless you've painted it over with a suitably high reflectance paint.
People are dumping many CRT projectors because these days, if the tubes are worn out, it's getting harder and harder to find GOOD
condition tubes at GOOD prices. This kind of leaves you in a spot where in order to retube that old XG, your only option for new quality
tubes may be to buy new tubes for about a grand each.
This, combined with the continuing improvements in digital projection quality even as their prices get lower and lower, means that fewer
and fewer people will refurbish their trusty CRT projector and opt to buy digitals instead.
I do predict that when digital projectors come standard with long life LED lamp modules, it'll be the final piece of the puzzle which causes
projector sales to climb to levels never seen before. Eliminate that expensive lamp that needs to be replaced fairly often and changes
output and color as it ages, and suddenly you have a pretty convenient and compelling product that will sell well.
I hear you, though. I just refurbished one Marquee 9500LC (it gets reinstalled this weekend with any luck) and I'm building up a second
one with brand new (old stock) CRTs, too. From where I stand, I've got 50 years of tube service life remaining and either machine
will take 1080 and rattle it! I can handle HDMI inputs and 3D is just one upgrade away, I think. I have NO reason to switch to a digital
for my home theater needs, and many very good reasons to stay with my CRTs. Picture quality being first and foremost.
CJ
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WanMan
Joined: 19 Mar 2006 Posts: 10270
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| Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 1:58 pm Post subject: Re: People taking down nec xg's why???? |
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| wildchild22 wrote: | | I cannot see how digitals could look any better. The 1352 with the acat for convergence makes it a snap. Even If you have to do it before every flick (I havn't had to touch it yet though) only takes a mater of 2 mins tops. | Who is saying digitals are better than XG's?
You need to keep context as a frame of reference. My ownership of my XG predates that of the VP50. So, had I gone your route when the VP50 first came out how much would I have spent on it? Same for the Moome card. And unless you are more than capable of setting up and calibrating a CRT (I'm not), add that +$1K cost as well.
Ok, now compare it to half that lump sum and I bet its more than you spent on any one digital projector. The list price on the VP50 was $2500, no? Let's say I got it for $2K. That is still more than the MSRP of any of the digitals you are comparing it to.
I would suggest the frame of reference is when people were comparing things of an X budget. A $2K processor to drive a CRT is one option, but then add in the $1K setup & calibration (my case) and then compare that to what was a $7K digital and not the ones you are comparing it with.
Hell, my PG would have beaten the pants off the digitals you bought into.
_________________ Trust no one. Absolutely no one. Advice of the board.
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wildchild22
Joined: 16 Aug 2008 Posts: 185
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| Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Well I Paid approx 600.00 for my XGLC 1352 , came with moome internal card and I paid 400.00 for the vp50. So I have approx 1000.00 sunk into it plus my time.
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Spanky Ham
Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 5643 Location: Comedy Central
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| Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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Yes and that isn't a bad price for the performance that you get. On the flip side, I paid I think $450 for a Marantz VP4001 and it will smoke the digitals you listed above. Is it as good as your NEC? Depends on what you value most, but I would still prefer to watch a CRT. I could see where others would prefer the Marantz though.
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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Boy Wildchild, there's a bunch of other threads here you should post in.
I don't know the BenQ model, but have had the other two here, and yeah, the XG will smoke the two entry level sets. It's exactly why I was selling a CRT a day back in 2000-2003, even though the X1 was cheaper than a 1352 at the time.
I tell anyone I'm talking to over the last 3-4 years or so that a CRT is like the guy that drives and tweaks a 1965 Mustang. Sure, a 2010 Accord will drive nicer, but there's something to be said for the guy that can tear down his carb and completely rebuild it for $35 in parts vs the Accord guy that needs to spend $300-400+ at the shop to get a tuneup.
At this point if you're not a DIYer, CRT is not for you, but as I posted elsewhere yesterday, there's still a number of ex digital owners that come over to CRT, and love it.
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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| cmjohnson wrote: | | Cloth screens are usually very lossy (light shines through them instead of being reflected back to the audience) unless you've painted it over with a suitably high reflectance paint. CJ | I have to agreen with CJ, i'm not sure how much leaks through BO cloth but the BO cloth screen I saw was awful. IT was the only time felt that an 8 inch CRT was dim. I think the gain of BO cloth is like .8 where a good material like Draper 1.3 measures in at 1.25 and will increaase your light output by 50% without pushing the tubes any harder. Another good option is Dalite high power 2.8 IMO.
Congrats on the killer $1K rig though, people are getting rid of them because they're bored and want to change light-bulbs as away of adding excitement to their lives.
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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It was my BO screen that Dragan saw. It certainly doesn't leak light -- BO is specifically designed as an opaque fabric to place behind curtains. It may absorb some light but it doesn't leak.
I recently replaced it with a Wilsonart Designer White screen, which is measured at 1.26 gain and which many people here say is a superior top-notch screen surface. And I was quite disappointed that I hardly saw any difference at all. If I'm right in the sweet spot, it is a bit brighter. And certainly if I hang a piece of BO on the front, it looks darker. But without a side-by-side comparison, it's not that big a difference. If you had swapped out my BO screen for DW and didn't tell me, I'm not sure I would have noticed.
So IMO BO is not a great answer for a screen. But it's not horrible either.
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 7:28 am Post subject: |
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| garyfritz wrote: | It was my BO screen that Dragan saw. It certainly doesn't leak light -- BO is specifically designed as an opaque fabric to place behind curtains. It may absorb some light but it doesn't leak.
I recently replaced it with a Wilsonart Designer White screen, which is measured at 1.26 gain and which many people here say is a superior top-notch screen surface. And I was quite disappointed that I hardly saw any difference at all. If I'm right in the sweet spot, it is a bit brighter. And certainly if I hang a piece of BO on the front, it looks darker. But without a side-by-side comparison, it's not that big a difference. If you had swapped out my BO screen for DW and didn't tell me, I'm not sure I would have noticed.
So IMO BO is not a great answer for a screen. But it's not horrible either. | that does surprise me, I started out with a DIY screen too,a painted one,. I switched to draper M1300 and the difference to me was pretty substantial. More importantly I dropped the contrast by 10%, from 60 to 50.
I remember you pushing your tubes on the BO cloth really hard, like 70% outpout, is that still where your at?
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JustGreg
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI
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| Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 9:36 am Post subject: |
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I had unpainted BOC for a year or so and finally got around to painting it. Never again! It isn't that is was difficult, but it was frustrating as a DIY-er trying to find a good paint recipe and getting the finish right. There was no way in hell I was going to dump a ton of money into Goo or Mudd for something that cost less than $80 to build.
I still don't think I have it right but I'm not lugging that 4x8 bitch up the stairs from the basement, through the house, and out to the garage again...unless it's to donate it as a canvas to a local art school. The plan is to cover it with GatorFoam or WilsonArt DW and glue it to it with wood laminate contact cement.
I used Behr UPW, some pearlescent, an electric HVLP sprayer, multiple coats, and even while laying coats I tried to find SOMEBODY to tell me what the final damn texture should be, with no luck. I got some pictures of what it should look like but they don't do squat when it comes to displaying how glossy the finish should be. It isn't glossy at all, which may have something to do with it's low reflectivity and resulting lack of punch. BTW, painting the back of the BOC with a reflective coating did absoultely nothing from what I could tell. I don't have a probe yet but I'm guessing if there were any improvement it would have been insignificant.
_________________ Greg
"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
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Spanky Ham
Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 5643 Location: Comedy Central
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| Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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| garyfritz wrote: |
I recently replaced it with a Wilsonart Designer White screen, which is measured at 1.26 gain an. |
I find it interesting and a little humorous that people come up with exact gain figures.
Greg,
That is to bad that you didn't get the results you wanted. I haven't tried painting BO cloth, but I could imagine it could be a pain. I painted a piece of MDF with a turbine sprayer and it came out great.
As for the sheen or gloss, that is one way screen manufacturers increase the gain. DW's gain comes entirely from its high gloss. Of course, the downside to the extra gain and gloss is the potential for hotspoting.
You may want to hold off on Gatorfoam. I still haven't sent the samples to Mech or Darin. I literally trip over them every day, but still forget to take them to the PO. Gatorfoam is a low sheen screen and quite lossy. I was surprised to see I could easily see the image on the backside of the screen the last time I used it. It still looked bright, but I don't have a gain reading. Personally, I prefer the low gloss surface.
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Spanky Ham wrote: | | I find it interesting and a little humorous that people come up with exact gain figures. |
A guy over on AVS measured it with a pro spectrophotometer. I figured he knew what he was doing.
Dragan, I haven't changed anything on the 8500. I don't remember if it was 70 or what, but it was the same before & after the new screen.
Last edited by garyfritz on Mon Dec 20, 2010 3:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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WanMan
Joined: 19 Mar 2006 Posts: 10270
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| Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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He measured a lot of screen materials and then some non-screen materials (materials meant for other applications). I like how the Seymour lit up with the JVC, even when zoomed in for 'scope movies. Being from CRT it meant that on normal lamp mode and zoomed in was just fine with the wife and me.
_________________ Trust no one. Absolutely no one. Advice of the board.
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Spanky Ham
Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 5643 Location: Comedy Central
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| Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 1:52 am Post subject: |
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| garyfritz wrote: | | Spanky Ham wrote: | | I find it interesting and a little humorous that people come up with exact gain figures. |
A guy over on AVS measured it with a pro spectrophotometer. I figured he knew what he was doing.
Dragan, I haven't changed anything on the 8500. I don't remember if it was 70 or what, but it was the same before & after the new screen. |
That was Jeff Meier. The problem is those numbers are only for his room and set up. I wouldn't consider them absolute value.
http://homecinemaguru.com/
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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OK. So if he measured my DW screen in my HT, he might get 1.22 instead of 1.26 (actually 1.29 according to his website). So quoting it to 3 digits of precision might be overkill -- but on the other hand it gives us a relative comparison to the other surfaces he measured. And that should be accurate.
DW still comes off looking pretty darn good. It has just about the same gain as Stewart StudioTek 130 -- which costs just a teensy bit more. It doesn't have quite as much off-axis gain, but its color fidelity is actually better than the Stewart. Better, in fact, than ALL the other tested screens except the Screen Research MultiPix 1.3. Not bad for something you can build for $100-150.
I wish he had measured BO. Would have been very interesting to see how BO compared to DW.
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s
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| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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You do not want the slightest of trace of gloss to your screen. Gloss = specular reflection. You'll start to see three colored circles on the
screen...one red, one green, and one blue. Those would be your CRTs.
My DIY screen is pure Behr ultra flat ultra white paint, applied with a conventional HPLV (Not HVLP) sprayer. The final texture feels like
a chalkboard.
I have always been completely satisfied with this screen.
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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Gloss or "sparkle" are common (I believe fundamentally required) in higher-gain screens. That's *how* they deliver their gain.
DW has a bit of gloss to it, but not enough to see reflections of the CRTs. There may be a slight bit of color shift due to the separate reflections of the tubes, but you'd have to look really carefully to see it.
A flat "chalky" 1.0-gain screen is ideal, IF you have enough light. If you want a brighter image, you have the choices of switching to a higher-lumen projector, cranking your contrast, going to a smaller screen, or using a higher-gain surface. I didn't want a smaller screen or a different projector and I've already got my contrast higher than it "should" be, so higher gain was the best choice for me.
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seong6788
Joined: 17 Dec 2010 Posts: 17
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| Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:59 am Post subject: |
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halo wildchild22, i'm leong here i"m new in crt user,may i ask u,are u still use moome?i just buy from frns i need u help is, what code i need to set in moome they i'm use XG1100 non LC,and wich is better for XG 1100 i have HD fury and moome too?
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:42 am Post subject: |
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| cmjohnson wrote: | You do not want the slightest of trace of gloss to your screen. Gloss = specular reflection. You'll start to see three colored circles on the
screen...one red, one green, and one blue. Those would be your CRTs.
My DIY screen is pure Behr ultra flat ultra white paint, applied with a conventional HPLV (Not HVLP) sprayer. The final texture feels like
a chalkboard.
I have always been completely satisfied with this screen. |
I'm with you on this one. It did start a arguement that I got sick of making However, there's more than gain and color fidelity to consider when choosing any screen material. Choosing the correct surface can also help with resolution. I found that the Behr paint you mentioned did the best of anything else I tried. My commercial screen bleeds light to the sides of crosshatch lines where the Behr hold them tight.
I am a firm believer in FLAT not EGGSHELL finish which is where the arguement stemmed from. You can run with that one.
I think you're right but I'm done with it.
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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416ray4538
Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont
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| Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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How do you feel about "high hide drywall sealer"? It's flat finish and as white as any paint.
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