CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[wildchild22]

I have a nec xg 1352 and curt done the board so the tube wont crack. I have the projector mounted and the covers taken off. so I can access the wingnuts for the lenses. I have done a setup a few times and it comes out pretty good. I am ready now to do a complete setup from scratch.

The tubes have little to no wear on a full 4:3 raster setup.

I am using a 16:9 screen and not 4:3 so the big question for re-doing a nec xg would be. Should I put all the controls in the zero position such as tilt,bow,pin cushion etc and save that to a memory block?

Then should I use the internal test pattern and adjust raster to max width (4:3 the internal nec test patterns are)?
or should I use a 16:9 test pattern from my dvdo vp50 and max the raster?


before hand

Should the image size controls in the menu be set to zero?
Amplitude should be set to?


Not real sure if I should use the amplitude or piction controls to adjust raster size.


I can move the projector back and forth 5 ft and left to right approx 3 feet from center either way thanks to unistrut.




I have read all Curts guide on the nec setup but am not sure on how to start the procedure.

[Elaine Benes]

To reset your settings, go to the top most menu, then push Control and Normal together, then choose Cancel. This will reset everything in that menu to null.

Use a test pattern from the source you're setting up, NEC internal patterns are not as accurate for setup as the actual source.

Personally, I would recommend NOT moving the projector way closer to the screen if a really sharp image is your preference. The amount of tubeface you use will be slightly less, but it will be easier to set up your projector and the sides of your image will be better converged and focused if you stay fairly close to the recommended throw distance. I understand this goes against what most people recommend here, but having owned a few NEC's, and done a lot of experimentation with them, I *personally* have never been able to get as perfect an image with a maximized raster, as I could get with the projector very near the factory throw distance. NEC's don't have lens flapping, so if you don't put the projector EXACTLY where you're supposed to, you end up compromising the optical focus. Also, I believe NEC's have trouble converging and focusing the outer edges of the image, which is at least partly why the throw distances are generally more conservative than most projectors. When you use very close to the factory recommended throw distance, I find, setup goes MUCH smoother...

Yes you can save a memory with everything nulled, but don't be surprised if its a really ugly looking input memory...

[jarseneau]

The whole process is iterative by nature but there are some guidelines.

• Optimise mechanical setup by ensuring pj/screen squareness and centering green CRT to screen center. While running your highest resolution, ensure horizontal width coverage with the raster set as wide as practical. At this point you can set PHASE TO CENTER the test pattern. From this point use external test patterns.
  
• Next, adjust Alignment (green only) to setup geometry to both fill the screen, center and create a square proportioned picture. This would be a suitable time to adjust scheimpflug according to a chart that may exist on the inside lens cover cowelling.
  
• adjust focus and astig on green
  
• Adjust red to green convergence starting with size an in the same order as you go down the remote. Repeat for blue.

[wildchild22]

thanks for the help so far. I tried maximizing the raster and maxing the width control to 100% and moving the projector as far forward as possible to fill my 92X51.75 " 16:9 screen. But after setting the image up as best as possible for a newbie I found the image blurry looking. So I moved the projector back approx 3 feet and lowered the H width amplitude and the focus is defiantly better with the projector back further.

So I think I will do a complete setup with the projector in it current location. I am approx 10 feet back and that is close to what the manual suggests.

I'll post some shots after I get the setup re done.


Last question should I setup using 1080i@ 60hz or 1080i @ 72hz from my vp50?

From my limited testing it seems to not make any difference as I copied the memory block from my 1080i @60hz to my 72hz memory block and didnt have to touch any of my settings.

[MrGogo]

Hi wildchild22,

You really should try and maximize the amount of phosphor used. Especially if the tubes have little to no wear. The manual that comes with XGs suggest a longer throw distance and does NOT maximize phosphor area usage. That why most people suggest that you make your raster as big as possible and then move the projector relative to the screen to make it fit. You will get a better image and your tubes will last longer­.

If you are having trouble focusing the set then you need to reset all the menu items to 0. Mechanically you should be able to focus very crisp when the tube raster area is maximized. As for focus, you should set all the menus to 0 and then using the main electric focus trim pot adjust the focus until its crisp. You will probably need to go back and forth between the mechanical and electrical focus adjustments to get it just right.

Good luck

[Curt Palme]

[Curt Palme]

[jarseneau]

If you have an LC (IIRC all 52's are LC's) then you might be having trouble focus-ing at the closer distance due to the interactive nature of the LC lens adjustment. In other words, the edge adjustment can make the center adjustment hard to focus. See the instructions at this link.

I think it says to start with both focus adjustments at the CW stop, then move wingnut A to get center focus; tighten. Then move barrel B for best edge focus. Then go back and check center and adjust wingnut A as needed, then re-check edge.

[wildchild22]

Okay I will try setting it up maxed on raster. However the problem for me is the images in the guide is of a non LC . The tube face on mine looks curved on the edges. As the image widens out it curves on the tube face. I am not putting it to far as it seems not mater how much h width I use I cannot get it wide enough to go over the tube face as in the pics. I have approx 1/2 inch to the danger zone when maxed out on width.

[Curt Palme]

So just look 'through' the C element, as the tube face behind it is the same as a non LC set. Only the C element is curved, the tube face is flat.

If you can't overshoot the tube face, that's a good thing. The image will be slightly smaller than the test pattern anyways, so if you've got 1/2" or so to the edge of the phosphor, I'd max out the width as much as possible to get the most use of the phosphor and the most resolution.

[Curt Palme]

So just look 'through' the C element, as the tube face behind it is the same as a non LC set. Only the C element is curved, the tube face is flat.

If you can't overshoot the tube face, that's a good thing. The image will be slightly smaller than the test pattern anyways, so if you've got 1/2" or so to the edge of the phosphor, I'd max out the width as much as possible to get the most use of the phosphor and the most resolution.

[Elaine Benes]

[wildchild22]

I cannot use the 100% horizontal width as the screen can only can focus the center and the sides are blurry. I tried the h and v dials to correct edge focus as per manual. That was my 3 hr ordeal last night.

Tonight I will slide the projector back where I can Focus it then redo a setup. It seems Elaine Benes is correct that it is hard to max width and get all the screen to focus.

Thanks for all the help so far.

It maybe the lenses I have they are some sort of protoype lenses for VR with a nda sticker on them.

They seem to allow a very short throw much much closer than the nec manual but then the screen will not focus well. So it seems my only option is to use approx 70-85% h width and focus the screen.

[Curt Palme]

Pull hte projector forward again and look into the lenses. Are the test patterns clear on the tube faces? If so, you have an optical focusing issue. It would be a shame for you to get tube wear at 500 hours because the setup wasn't done right at the beginning.

[Curt Palme]

Pull hte projector forward again and look into the lenses. Are the test patterns clear on the tube faces? If so, you have an optical focusing issue. It would be a shame for you to get tube wear at 500 hours because the setup wasn't done right at the beginning.

[wildchild22]

Here are some pics from my iphone of the raster using the internal nec test pattern. It is not correct size as I just put h width to max and bumped the vertical size to approx. They are the same pic just one you cant see the right side of the raster.


How do this look?

The previous Owner had black cardboard stuck on the front of the c element so I never took it off.


This is after setting all internal settings to zero and I had to drop the brightness and contrast down do my iphone would focus on it.

[wildchild22]

Here is a pic of the green tube the previous owner took. The wear you see on the tube cannot be seen by your eye even with a flash light.

[dropzone7]

[Curt Palme]

There's no focus problem within the set that I can see. That black cardboard is stock NEC, not sure why it's there other than to perhaps absorb reflections.

[Curt Palme]

There's no focus problem within the set that I can see. That black cardboard is stock NEC, not sure why it's there other than to perhaps absorb reflections.

[wildchild22]

Can someone explain how to adjust phase properly. I am very close to having a watchable image but my geometry isnt perfect. I can see scan lines @ 1080i@60hz though. So I am making improvement.


With bell hdtv I can see the channel logo when you change channels across the top isn't staright it is bowed.


I read how to adjust phase in the manual but it doesnt make sense.

[wildchild22]

My projector has acat. How do I use this feature? Not in my manual.

[dropzone7]